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On a similar note, had a distributor, used in racing, that had a centrifugal advance where no vacuum is needed. It also had dual points, where 2nd one would fire say 2 degrees later after the primary fires. 2 sparks effect.

Was mechanic in 60s. Did lots generators. Especially Fords. They put on bottom of engine. Got wet often. So, looking at my Mav, trying to spot the alternator. Seeing if Ford changed. 😆

The Italians complained can’t get good, cheap olive oil. The olive growers switched to growing sunflower. Discovered can get more ethanol yield per acreage and better prices for gasoline blending.

And losing steering at that moment.

Not a big fan of turbos. Adding turbo to motorcycle sized engines in vehicles puts them on steroids. And introduced a host of issues. All that to meet the bureaucrats imposed fuel efficiency standards they prescribed. And owners paying for it. Those Honda racing engines in F1 or Indy are tiny...

Why I’m a big supporter of postlube pump feature for turbo fitted engines. A driver on a long haul, stops at station, or in driveway, shutting down engine. Hot spinning turbo cooking its non Flowing oil. If no postlube setup, alternative is to sit, let engine idle for say 5-10 minutes to cool...

The one thing it does do is make owners eventually buy new batteries or starters, or both. The most nagging issue is drivers who don’t want ASS have to switch it off each time get in, start their vehicles. Of course there are kits to nullify this function, but an added expense here.

And if you had rattle or popping sound coming from dash, pass side, prob from plastic alignment guide. Word is from some replacing the OEM windshield that rattle popping goes away. Replacement windshield not have this guide feature.

My truck a 2023 and has only DI feature. Shucks. Guess I invest in walnut shells to blast the intake valves when engine starts to wane. I not use Motorcraft oils. Switched to other. It’s not Motorcraft, rather its ConocoPhillips 66 oil.

Oil I switch to is Quaker State. Meets Ford WSS 971-A1 specs. QS own by Shelll oil, that also provides Pennzoil. Not expected to be cheap oil. Motorcraft is Conoco Phillips66 stuff.

Took the easy route. Clipped to sun visor. No issues here.

Do you have a cell phone charger cord, or phone plugged in . Sometimes that gives RF and messes up sensor to computer/readout.

Done few analysis. The one part caught my attention was viscosity. Evidence of shearing. For both blend and synthetic of Motorcraft oils. I’ve switched to Quaker State full synthetic, plan to put mileage on it, pull sample, check it for viscosity. This oil is Ford WSS approved under new 971-A1...

I too wished for gear indications on the dash display. Had a F250 diesel with gear display, found useful when towing our RV, and other times. Found useful.

Hate to see that. I had a situation like that….on my son’s Mitsubishi GT3000. Transmission leaking. An alum cover cracked. Removed it, degrease it. Took small rotary file to do V notch over crack. Then added JB Weld. Fixed it. Happy.

Interesting. So, question begs….any other see this?

And Some think EV not practical. Mfrs May wean the EV scheme.

I would not think 961 exceeds 971. Ok to use 961? Probably. Individual choice. But why fret if 971 a better choice.

I switched to Quaker State brand, now a Shell Oil own company. After several oil analysis, not happy of Motorcraft blend or full synthetic , low viscosity numbers. QS advised the M2C971-A1 supersedes the 961. Learning the 961 is 2020 stuff, whereas 971 is 2025 newer oil. And if I recall, asked...

Lube oil might . For Ecoboost, New WSS-M2C971-A1, different from WSS-M2C961-A1. The 971 is a new March 2025 oil specs, which has improvements like low speed preignition, heat, turbo lubrication, etc.