Using 1/2" MDF.
The baffle (red) is 16x10.5in and the bottom (blue) of the enclosure is 12x8.5in. The height (purple) from top of the baffle to the bottom, where the enclosure hits the bottom of the storage is 6.5in. The ends (green) and sides are angled to connect everything together.
Did you try applying power to both vbat and lin while grounding the last one (or some combination of that)? Without having someone with a 2022 and a multimeter actually test the wires, it's a crapshoot.
Pretty much done with the audio upgrade, but I will update this thread with any new changes.
There are already lot's of great threads and videos that show the step-by-step, of wiring etc, so I didn't document that. However, I'd be happy to answer questions regarding wiring things up.
I used...
That's what I would do in this case.
I'm sure the Focals come with an awesome crossover that would fit in the door with minimal effort and they would allow you to keep the factory wiring. You would lose bi-amping, but you don't mess with any of the factory wiring and can revert back to factory...
I've had them off, it's possible, but I wouldn't want to interfere with the airbags. More of a CYA thing.
Bi-amping the tweeters? Are you bypassing a wired crossover and going with a DSP or something else? Even during my peak car audio days, we never did that. Not knocking it, just wondering.
Exactly. It wires before the anode (longer of the two leads).
The phone's camera overexposed the picture since it was dark, but that's the nice thing about the resistors, you can modify the brightness to your liking. It's a white light, matches the cluster lights just fine.
Thanks!
The 2'x4' mdf was ~$12 and was enough for the enclosure and the amp board. Box of screws for $2, $3 liquid nails and $6 fabric puts it just over $20, but close enough. ;)
Of course, back in the day, I would've fiberglassed it to exactly what I wanted, but I don't have the free time...
Yup, 10" sub. It's definitely tight at around ~0.46 ft3. I wanted to maximize space and this particular driver is suited to small enclosures, although it really shouldn't go under 0.5 ft3, so I added a bit of polyfill that I had laying around. The Qtc isn't horrible at around 0.9, but it's still...
That is really nice and the price is actually reasonable considering what ABS prefab enclosures go for.
I opted for the $20 quick and dirty diy option - a little 1/2" MDF, some automotive carpet and an old unused speaker terminal.
You're overthinking this. It's an LED light. Strip the wires back and start connecting them to power. When the light illuminates, you're done. It's not going to blow up if you connect it wrong, it just won't work. If you're paranoid, use a 9v battery to see which wires turn it on. Or if someone...
From what I could see from Ford's part lookup, yes, it's precut. However, without actually ordering it and being 100%, I can't say for sure.
Without having the factory light to see, I couldn't tell you. One of the wires could be an output to connect to other lights, be a secondary 12v, provide...
I tried to order the last one in the country, but the dealer can't locate it in their inventory. It's also been marked obsolete by Ford, so no way to get another one.
Ok. Without ordering the part and being 100% sure...
There is a difference in part numbers between the 2022 and 2023. The 2022 part appeared to have the cutout for the light, while the 2023 does not have it.
2022 cover: NZ6Z26044F58BA
2023 cover: NZ6Z26044F58AA
The light assembly includes the...
The lariat may or may not have the harness/plug for it. I know the XL/XLT do not, which is why I just bought the parts and diy'd it. I should know more when I go to the dealership on Thursday and have them look it up.
I can confirm that this harness works for the non B&O sound system. Allows for a line out converter and using the factory wiring to amplify the speakers using the stock wiring.