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Yes, can even reach it without reclining the seat.

That'd be nice. Unfortunately, it's my morning commute into work. Was averaging anywhere between 45-50mpg during the winter.

New personal best. Just normal driving, not attempting to hypermile or anything. The warmer Midwest temps certainly seemed to help.

Excellent fuel economy? Check Quiet and smooth operation? Uhh, no. Grabby brakes and quite possibly the worst engine sound out of any N/A vehicle I've ever heard. Refined ride quality? I almost spit out my coffee. Compared to the others on this list, the Maverick hybrid is the equivalent to a...

Where did you get the diagram from? That's really nice! Start at the clip/corner nearest to the USB and using moderate pressure, press down (towards the shifter/cubby) to create a small opening that will allow you to either insert a pry tool or use your fingers and then allow you to pull it...

Exactly. It goes inline with the 12v + source. Pretty much anywhere in between the source to the LED will work.

I only mentioned the LC2I because you did. And "accubass" not being considered a "DSP" could be argued, seeing as how it is processing a signal...digitally. It's not what I would do, but if the OP wants to run speaker wire to AND from the factory head unit that's also acceptable, particularly...

I understand what the OP is trying to do (been there, done that), which is why I recommend using a LOC. Not arguing with you here... I just wanted to clarify that you mentioned that using a LOC (which requires RCA's) would be a "waste of money," but then agree that you also "prefer RCA" outs...

I'm sure some exist, but I've never seen a professional or even semi-professional setup that used high-level inputs. How much are LOC's? Like $10-20? You've already got the RCA's behind the head unit ready to go in the event of an aftermarket upgrade. What if your new amp doesn't have high level...

For the lights in the foot well, I soldered each resistor closer to the LED, for the one in the center console, I placed it closer to where I tapped into the power source, although it really doesn't matter where you put it. They are all run in parallel using the same "feed" located at the back...

They look nice, but with those dimensions, that's not .625 ft3. Closer to .5 ft3 depending on the wood used (unless that's fiberglass?). Still nicely done 👍.

You don't need some expensive prefabbed kit. Assuming you're not a B&O system...Buy the PAC audio LPHFD31 and a LOC, run some RCA's and speaker wire and be done.

:rolleyes: Yeah, I guess I should add rear speakers to my 2.1 setup at home...

Yup, get used to it. Semi-normal in the dry, grabby-mess in the wet.

I'm ready to cut mine in half to get more legroom and give my shin a break and then I find this thread that talks about lengthening it. Lol.

Get a cheap 8" or 10" powered sub off of Amazon for ~$125 and add a pair of semi-decent coaxial speakers for the front doors with the left over money. Don't bother replacing the rear speakers.

Probably. However, I've already DIY'd the ambient lighting in the console and front foot wells. Also, the Ford factory lighting (at least in the console) is a 3-wire layout that requires a canbus signal to operate. I have no proof, but I believe they are universal across all Ford products and...

Perfect. Thank you!

Can confirm. Rain/moisture definitely makes the brakes more grabby in the final 3-5mph. I've roughly 2.7k on mine.

Thanks as always. When it's daylight out (and convenient), do you think you could get me a close up of the light here? Trying to get an idea of the dimensions.