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Grabber Rick

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Sorry but I had to correct the typos and improper grammar. It was driving me crazy. Now that it's fixed, I can answer your questions. Some of the traditional and cost-effective things to do would be a bug deflector, mud guards, and all-weather mats. If you live in colder climate, I would suggest a hard tri-fold tonneau cover so it can take snow atop of it. Like someone else mentioned, the tailgate assist is an easy, affordable and practical modification, especially if you plan on using the bed frequently.

Things not to do would be aftermarket lights and lifts. For me, this is more of a personal taste but I've never been a fan of trucks with 2+inch lifts that have giant, off-road boggers that generate a lot of noise and gaudy chrome wheels. It's one thing in you're in an environment where it's essential to have higher ground clearance such as living off the grid, on a farm or if you intend to off-road it for pleasure. But most is done for show and keeping it as stock as possible is the best and cheapest solution. Less premature wear and tear in the long run on your control arms, springs, ECM and battery.

I would say rust shouldn't be too much of issue since most panels on the truck are made out of aliminum such as the hood, roof and front quarter panels. And it's unibody so there's no separate ladder frame underneath the truck the body is bolted onto. No having to worry about frame rot. But there have been reported issues of bubbling paint on the steel panels. I wouldn't worry about it too much since it's an isolated issue. Taking good care your truck such as waxing and ceramic coatings helps preventatively.
Only the hood is aluminum. Unibodies rot out easier than a frame. Unibodies have lots of overlapping panels that are spot welded. Those actually rust easy between the layers of metal.
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dochawk

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I have found that the search function in this forum is very helpful.
I gave up on that a couple of decades ago.

adding "site:somewebsite.com" to a google search almost always yields better results than any site's internal search--unless they use the google gizmo.



The big thing to decide is if you're going to put paint protection film on the front bumper and hood.
but take into account sun where you live! I passed on this from the factory, as we have so much UV in Las Vegas, that it would give me a mis-matched vehicle as the rest faded. I'll get aftermarket all-over coating. [in all seriousness, tread life doesn't matter here, as your sidewalls will never last that long if you drive less than 40k/year]

I don't know if people are still having problems, but don't get out and shut the door with the key in it, they've been known to lock themselves.
use google trick above; this has been pretty clearly demonstrated to be happening by brushing against the lock buttons [which is a totally different design problem . . .]

For someone, who doesn't know, how to use commas, your post came off super arrogant.
I'll take that second comma as rhetorical . . .

Should ‘ Majors’ have a capital M or no, not? 😉
I suppose that depends upon whether he's also a military officer?
🤔
 
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Frenchy

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Rinoliner gets hard. If it cracks and moisture gets underneath it you will end up with rust. You will not notice it untill its to late.
I thinking about spraying rinoliner under the car for rust protection
 

Blue_Max

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I gave up on that a couple of decades ago.
Nevertheless, I have found that the search function in this forum is very helpful. I haven't felt the need yet to start a topic to ask a question. Every question I've had, I've been able to find the answer using the search function in this forum.
 

AutobahnSHO

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I've chuckled to myself when people lift, add wider tires, add aggressive pattern tires, then complain about MPG going down.

Oh and those little 'mud flap' looking things in front of the front wheels are purely for aerodynamics to save half an MPG or two. Some people remove them, despite the manufacturer spending money to design and make them...
 

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Only the hood is aluminum. Unibodies rot out easier than a frame. Unibodies have lots of overlapping panels that are spot welded. Those actually rust easy between the layers of metal.
Gotcha. I didn't know that. I did the knock test on the panels to tell which is which and I swore the roof and front panels sounded hollow like aluminum. I guess not.
 

Blue_Max

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Gotcha. I didn't know that. I did the knock test on the panels to tell which is which and I swore the roof and front panels sounded hollow like aluminum. I guess not.
A magnet test is simple.
 
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Frenchy

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Gotcha. I didn't know that. I did the knock test on the panels to tell which is which and I swore the roof and front panels sounded hollow like aluminum. I guess not.


27-03-2024 by AHG Auto Service
Based on the search results, it appears that the Ford Maverick does have some aluminum parts, but the majority of the body, bed, and tailgate are made of steel. The hood, however, is made of aluminum. One user on Reddit mentioned that the hood is attached to steel supports for lifting it . It’s worth noting that the bed is made of steel for durability .
If you have any more questions or need further information, feel free to ask!
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Propane Burning Man

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First thing I will do when I finally get my Mav Hybrid is install an onboard 12 volt battery desulfator such as PulseTech PowerPulse. The #1 problem seems to be the 12 volt battery. Most members seem to believe that the battery is getting sulfation build up on the lead plates leading to a weaker and weaker battery. I agree with that. I have a similar unit installed on my 10 year old Transit with 114,000 miles and the original batteries just tested fine a month ago.

Amazon.com: Pulsetech PowerPulse Battery Maintenance System : Automotive
 
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Camdak

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First thing I will do when I finally get my Mav Hybrid is install an onboard 12 volt battery desulfator such as PulseTech PowerPulse. The #1 problem seems to be the 12 volt battery. Most members seem to believe that the battery is getting sulfation build up on the lead plates leading to a weaker and weaker battery. I agree with that. I have a similar unit installed on my 10 year old Transit with 114,000 miles and the original batteries just tested fine a month ago.
 
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Camdak

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First thing I will do when I finally get my Mav Hybrid is install an onboard 12 volt battery desulfator such as PulseTech PowerPulse. The #1 problem seems to be the 12 volt battery. Most members seem to believe that the battery is getting sulfation build up on the lead plates leading to a weaker and weaker battery. I agree with that. I have a similar unit installed on my 10 year old Transit with 114,000 miles and the original batteries just tested fine a month ago.

Amazon.com: Pulsetech PowerPulse Battery Maintenance System : Automotive
Will this desulfator mode work on AGM batteries? The new 1-4 amp charger/maintainer I bought has this function but reading instructions it says ‘ be careful’. Don’t want things to explode 🤯
 

Propane Burning Man

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Yes, my batteries in my 10 year old Transit are AGM. It is NOT a charger. It uses electrical pulses to keep the sulfation from building up on the lead plates, and will dissolve any build up that is already there.
 

Camdak

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Yes, my batteries in my 10 year old Transit are AGM. It is NOT a charger. It uses electrical pulses to keep the sulfation from building up on the lead plates, and will dissolve any build up that is already there.
Thanks, just wondering if it produces a not so good gas so should be done outside. How long does it usually take till done? Sorry, unclear on this stuff.
 

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My brand new 2025 Maverick Hybrid AWD and 4K towing lef the factory yesterday.
I drove all kind of different vehicukles in my life but never a Ford and never an hybrid.
ONe of the first thing , for me, will be to put tonneau cover,
What are the thinbgs to and not to do when I just receive it?
How is the rust protection on this trucks?
Thank you and have a great day.
We can't wait for you to receive your new Maverick Bert! 😎
 

Propane Burning Man

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Doesn't make the battery produce any more off gassing than normal use. My transit batteries are under the driver seat so everything is happening inside. And there is not a "done". You hook it up to the battery and leave it hooked up. Drive your car just like you normally do. Nothing else to do. If you don't drive your vehicle for a month the battery will still lose some of its charge, so you may still need to hook up a charger periodically.
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