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U-Haul Cancelled my 7pin connector install

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I just had something interesting happened.

I called U-Haul to schedule adding a 7pin trailer connector to my 2024 XL Maverick Hybrid, and they cancelled it the day of install. They cancelled it because my vehicle is under warranty, because they don't work on vehicles under warranty.
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JWGage

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Try your Ford dealership? I am speculating here, with the four pin connector you can’t hook up anything too heavy ie. more than 2000 lbs. Bigger trailers (and bigger loads) require the seven pin connector.
 

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With your 2000# tow limit, are you asking for the 7-pin because you like the connector, or did you want them to install a electric brake controller too?

HRG
 

tom_tucker

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Sounds like a wake-up call to evaluate your GVWR, GWAR, tongue weight, etc. 2000 lbs is weak for a 7 pin, IMO.
 

The Real Maverick

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The pins / connector has nothing to do with the tow rating.

Some states REQUIRE trailer brakes at 1500 lbs. Most, right at 3000 lbs. A few, higher than this.

1 or 2 states I think no regulation at all.

You can do it and you can do it without voiding your warranty. But it is not that simple and probably why U-haul balked at it. Also there is probably no set of directions for doing it and do you really want U-haul making it up as they go?
 
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Yeah I'm asking for the controller as well... I'm getting a Forest River 1640LTD, which is in the tow rating for the Maverick hybrid. My camper dealer orders all these with electric breaks and motorized roof lift. If I want to charge the trailer I need the 7 pin, and since it has electric breaks I might as well utilize them. I'm going to be having a red arc brand break controller installed. This was one of the more attractive options they had.

My Ford Dealership doesn't do that kind of service work. They recommended a place, but I initially didn't consider them, because they were further away then I would have liked.
 

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The pins / connector has nothing to do with the tow rating.

Some states REQUIRE trailer brakes at 1500 lbs. Most, right at 2000 lbs. A few, higher than this.

2 states I think no regulation at all.

You can do it and you can do it without voiding your warranty. But it is not that simple and probably why U-haul balked at it. Also there is probably no set of directions for doing it and do you really want U-haul making it up as they go?
Yes I'm aware of that. I've DIY installed a 7 pin & controller one time and it wasn't that hard. I ran the wires under the car. Brake controller wires through the firewall. I'm a hack and was still able to do it.

I'd just like to see somebody do the math on GCWR and see what your real world payload is when you're towing 1500 lbs. with 350 on the tongue. I bet his XT payload started at 1500+, what is it with the trailer hooked up?
 

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The Real Maverick

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convert your 4 to a 7
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Wiring/CURT/C57102.html?feed=npn&gad_source=1
CURT Trailer Wir.jpg


then wire this inertial/proportional brake controller from your battery and to the new 7 pin
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brake-Controller/Tekonsha/90195.html
Proportional Tekonsha Trailer Brake Co.jpg


both are top rated products and just under $200 for both

an auto stereo shop should be able to do the install easily
I highly recommend this.
This controller is better / more feature rich than a Ford stock one. I have it and love it and with quick connects it can be moved from vehicle to vehicle.
 
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The Real Maverick

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Yeah, but none of that will charge the trailer at that point. I have one of those 4 to 7 adapters around from my 1999 ford ranger.

https://www.redarcelectronics.com/us/electric-brake-controller/shop-all-towing

This is that redarc brand controllers... Much cleaner looking!
I disagree.

And the wording on their web site scares me. Copy & Paste below:

"Provides user-controlled braking, allowing you to independently manage the trailer’s speed separate from your vehicle."

Hint: If the trailer is going a different speed than your vehicle, something has gone horribly wrong!

😱
 

Mike1597

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Personally, I prefer surge brakes over electric brakes. Also, you do not want electric brakes on a trailer if you are putting a boat in the water.
 

The Real Maverick

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Personally, I prefer surge brakes over electric brakes. Also, you do not want electric brakes on a trailer if you are putting a boat in the water.
That's an interesting perspective. And I definitely see where you are coming from.

Salt water will conduct electricity.
Pure water will not.

Lake/river water is not pure but close to it and will be a poor conductor. The brakes usually operate at like 4 volts to 8 volts and in any case, not more than the truck's battery volts making it safe to be submerged. But as for corrosion? You probably have a point there.

I don't own a boat but tow other toys.

For you boat owners out there, what happens to your trailer tail lamps that get submerged?
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