Problem with Mabett Fender Turn signals

[umpkey]

Has anyone else had problems with the Fender LED/turn signal taking in moisture and then not working. My passenger side has a lot of moisture and now only about 20% of the LED lights up and no longer flashes with turn signal. I will post picture below. Trying for return/replacement with Amazon was useless bought them 6 weeks ago so that window/option is out. Not been able to make contact with anyone from Mabbet. Any help is greatly appreciated. At this time it looks like I am out $90.

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[Chris_G]

Why not return them?

 

[umpkey]

Why not return them?

I tried that Amazon won't take them back. I am about 2 weeks past the 30 day return window and their customer service was no help. Pretty much told me I was out of luck.

 

[Bilbo_B]

I don't have them but I've seen a comment or two about it. I don't know if you can remove them without damage but the one referenced making them waterproof with some silicone or something. I wonder if it would work again if it were dried out.

 

[Chris_G]

I tried that Amazon won't take them back. I am about 2 weeks past the 30 day return window and their customer service was no help. Pretty much told me I was out of luck.

OOOps. Hopefully Mabett will step up and make it right.

 

[Nw_adventure]

Yeah that's the problem with Amazon- Basically a 30 day return warranty and then past that, Good luck !

 

[White Thunder]

There have been many post on the moisture problem.
my problem is the right side won‘T light work

 

[MM Mav]

@MABETT Ryan can you help @umpkey out?

 

[Montana]

According to them... "condensation" is normal. They've said this many times on this product.

(It's not)

 

[fossil]

I don't expect Amazon to protect me from poor buying choices, 30 day free return is it. It gives you time to inspect item and make a choice.
As best I can see Mabett doesn't offer a warranty on this product and that's on Mabett. That eliminates it for me.

 

[Toddman45]

I saw those when I joined the form they look nice until I read further down in the post about all the problems with moisture. Seems to be a cheap Chinese product with lack of quality control and not fully sealed to keep out water.

 

[Mr Pibb]

I'm not sure how you feel about this idea, but if you feel you're out the money anyways, how about trying to disassemble them and take pictures?

 

[TRUCKHEF]

It’s a known problem it seems. Gotta open them up and reseal them with silicone upon arrival.

 

[JPinPA]

PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK!
READ THIS POSTING THROUGH SEVERAL TIMES WHILE COMPARING WITH YOUR SIDE MARKERS. MAKE NOTE OF ANY DISCREPENCIES & PASS THEM ALONG AS A RESPONSE TO THIS POST.

Received my replacements day before yesterday. Looking at the passenger side marker I noticed that the foam seal is hardly adequate. I removed it (had to remove a couple of the spring clips in order to get those points of the foam seal released. I then squeezed silicone sealant around the perimeter and then addressed the screws holding the unit together. I removed them, squeezed a bit of sealant in each spot and replaced the screws. I then applied sealant over the screws. I ordered the closed cell foam mentioned somewhere above and will make a more substantial seal to replace the original.

Afterthoughts: a better order of operations would be:

- remove the spring clips
- remove the original foam seal
- remove the screws holding the inner and outer pieces together
- separate the two pieces
- OPTIONAL IF USING THE ORIGINAL THAT HAS CONDENSATION & IS STILL IN WORKING ORDER: while the unit is opened up use a towel and hairdryer to dry everything out.
- use the outer shell to trace the shape of it on the foam (the foam is black - use a fine-line white sharpie) - use the same shell to mark 2 (one can be flipped over for the driver's side marker if you so choose to operate on that one)
- draw another outline approximately 1/16th - 1/8th (VERIFY THIS DIMENSION SO THAT THIS PIECE ENDS UP JUST WITHIN THE WALLS OF THE OUTER SHELL) within the original lines and cut out the overall shape.
- again draw another outline 1/4" to 3/8" inside the perimeter of the piece to cut out the inside (VERIFY THAT THIS NEW GASKET IS WIDE ENOUGH TO COVER FROM THE EDGE OF THE SHELL TO APPROXIMATELY 1/8" BEYOND THE GAP THAT EXISTS BETWEEN THE OUTER AND INNER PIECES WHEN THEY ARE ASSEMBLED).
- Place the two pieces together and prior to replacing the screws, squirt a small bit of silicone sealant into each screw location and reseat the screws.
NOW THE POTENTIALLY MESSY PART! USE LIGHT COLORED RUBBER GLOVES SO YOU CAN MONITOR HOW MUCH ERRANT SEALANT YOU'RE GETTING ON YOUR HANDS DURING THE PROCESS AND WIPE AWAY AS NECCESSARY.
- Cover the screw heads with silicone sealant.
- Squeeze the sealant into the gap between the outer shell and inner piece (try to fill the gap as full as possible) and smooth being careful not to get any on the outer surfaces of the shell.
- Set aside to allow the silicone to cure for 24 hours
- Set the foam seal you've made in place carefully trimming the spots where the spring clips need space to fully seat on the plastic tabs.
- Take the gasket, sit it on wax paper and spray 3M adhesive on the side that will face the back of the marker.
- Carefully flip the gasket over and set it in place on the back to the marker assembly.
- Replace the spring clips on the plastic tabs

You can now install the side marker(s).

NOTE: the gasket material is thicker than the original crappy misaligned and too thin gasket. The foam I ordered is 1/4" thick (THIS IS TOO THICK!). 1/8" - 3/16" 1/16" - 1/8" thickness will work better. THE 1/4' FOAM IS TOO THICK AND HOLDS THE MARKER OUT SO FAR THAT THE EDGE OF THE FRONT DOOR CLICKS AGAINST THE MARKER SURROUND WHEN OPENED!

AGAIN, PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK!

 

[jon72vega]

Mine haven’t failed yet, but the passenger side has alot of condensation.
I have messaged @MABETT both on the forum, and also by FB Messenger and have gotten 0 response as of late.

Maybe the forum should suspend his vendor status???

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