My Steeda swaybar was absolute garbage and broke in half

[fossil]

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/how-to-understand-sway-bars/

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[Milous]

...Solid is the only way to go. Sorry about the bar, at least you got a replacement.

After seeing what happened to the first bar, there is no way I would trust a replacement from the same company, not to mention the hassle/time spent installing a bar that the same thing may happen to. The response from Steeda didn't sound too sincere or apologetic.

 

[jewc75]

Id say the weld was too hot when they welded the stop on it. Metal got brittle.

 

[LC48]

Good article posted by @fossil above. Here is a quote from the article:

Sway bars work off of torsional force (twisting motion). Therefore, the material in the center of a solid bar plays little role in the resistance of torsional force. With this in mind, hollow bars eliminate some of the center material and move it to the outside of the tube, where it is most effective. In turn, this produces a sway bar that is lighter in weight and just as stiff, if not stiffer, than solid. For example, a 138-inch hollow bar is equivalent to a 1-inch solid. But the 138-inch hollow bar is 6-percent stiffer and 43-percent lighter than the 1-inch solid.

I wasn't aware that hollow aftermarket bars were a secret, regardless of manufacturer. From the Steeda website listing for this specific sway bar:

Strong construction. Steeda's sway bar is designed, engineered, and manufactured in the USA and is made from 1-inch tubular Chromoly steel tubing for long-lasting performance and durability. CNC-machined billet steel ends offer greater strength than the coined ends on other bars. The bar is powder-coated Steeda blue for protection from the elements.

 

[fossil]

I wasn't aware that hollow aftermarket bars were a secret, regardless of manufacturer. From the Steeda website listing for this specific sway bar: Chromoly steel tubing

^^^ this
The goal of most aftermarket sway bar buyers is to enhance handling. Reducing unsprung weight whether it be aluminum A arms, aluminum wheels or hallow sway bars are key ways to do this. That's why performance cars like the Mustang use OEM bars made from tubing. Steeda could easily make a solid bar cheaper without the machined and welded on ends by simple smashing the ends and drilling a few holes.
Steeda is replacing the broken bar apparently without hassle.

 

[wax87]

Did @aspect get this resolved?

 

[aspect]

Did @aspect get this resolved?

Steeda indicated they would send me a new bar, but I have not seen a tracking number.

I sent a followup email the day after to ask more questions about the failure and it was ignored.

I sent another followup asking for a partial credit as this would definitely be cheaper than sending a new bar + shipping to Canada. I have not received a response but will post an update if I get one. I've already put the OEM bar back on.

 

[LC48]

Somebody from the "solid bars are better" gang should contact Fomoco and tell 'em - that stock bar OP just put back on his truck is hollow.....with crushed and drilled ends...

 

[wax87]

Steeda indicated they would send me a new bar, but I have not seen a tracking number.

I sent a followup email the day after to ask more questions about the failure and it was ignored.

I sent another followup asking for a partial credit as this would definitely be cheaper than sending a new bar + shipping to Canada. I have not received a response but will post an update if I get one. I've already put the OEM bar back on.

Did they ask for the broken one back? I sure would what to study it to determined what failed.

 

[LC48]

Did they ask for the broken one back? I sure would what to study it to determined what failed.

They may have had a batch and have already discovered the root cause. I agree with @jewc75 someone got a little happy with their machine settings. Looking at OP's pictures, I think that bar was cracked for a decent period before it finally surrendered, only part of that break looks fresh to me.

 

[wax87]

They may have had a batch and have already discovered the root cause. I agree with @jewc75 someone got a little happy with their machine settings. Looking at OP's pictures, I think that bar was cracked for a decent period before it finally surrendered, only part of that break looks fresh to me.

Maybe, he is the 1st one I heard about on the forum

 

[Montana]

So, not always solid.

(insert "The more you know" .gif here)

 

[Snox801]

Good article posted by @fossil above. Here is a quote from the article:

Sway bars work off of torsional force (twisting motion). Therefore, the material in the center of a solid bar plays little role in the resistance of torsional force. With this in mind, hollow bars eliminate some of the center material and move it to the outside of the tube, where it is most effective. In turn, this produces a sway bar that is lighter in weight and just as stiff, if not stiffer, than solid. For example, a 138-inch hollow bar is equivalent to a 1-inch solid. But the 138-inch hollow bar is 6-percent stiffer and 43-percent lighter than the 1-inch solid.

I wasn't aware that hollow aftermarket bars were a secret, regardless of manufacturer. From the Steeda website listing for this specific sway bar:

Strong construction. Steeda's sway bar is designed, engineered, and manufactured in the USA and is made from 1-inch tubular Chromoly steel tubing for long-lasting performance and durability. CNC-machined billet steel ends offer greater strength than the coined ends on other bars. The bar is powder-coated Steeda blue for protection from the elements.

I will add as someone who made high end titanium jack shafts and axles for snowmobiles hollow is fine. Every now and again we would get one that broke on a 180hp sled. While 98 percent would work on speeds with double the hp and severe abuse. Could be the way they bent it or just bad stock material. But I have no issues and prefer a hollow bar. If we are racing no mater what way you shake it weight matters.
Slap on the replacement and see if it breaks again. If it does it twice they obviously have some manufacturing problems.

 

[Lane]

Good article posted by @fossil above. Here is a quote from the article:

Sway bars work off of torsional force (twisting motion). Therefore, the material in the center of a solid bar plays little role in the resistance of torsional force. With this in mind, hollow bars eliminate some of the center material and move it to the outside of the tube, where it is most effective. In turn, this produces a sway bar that is lighter in weight and just as stiff, if not stiffer, than solid. For example, a 138-inch hollow bar is equivalent to a 1-inch solid. But the 138-inch hollow bar is 6-percent stiffer and 43-percent lighter than the 1-inch solid.

I wasn't aware that hollow aftermarket bars were a secret, regardless of manufacturer. From the Steeda website listing for this specific sway bar:

Strong construction. Steeda's sway bar is designed, engineered, and manufactured in the USA and is made from 1-inch tubular Chromoly steel tubing for long-lasting performance and durability. CNC-machined billet steel ends offer greater strength than the coined ends on other bars. The bar is powder-coated Steeda blue for protection from the elements.

Thank you @LC48, thank you @fossil, for actually taking a few minutes to do some research and share useful information with the rest of us. That beats issuing a decree "sway bars should be solid!" any day.

Over the years, I've had a performance cars, and cars that have been built for the track. It's been a mix of solid and tubular.

And aftermarket isn't always better than factory, but maybe that's a discussion for another day.

Personally, I wouldn't replace my broken aftermarket one with another from the same source. It might be just fine. But I just wouldn't have the trust I want to at that point.

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