Tapping into Spare Fuse Disabled Fordpass

[dustmaker]

Hey everyone,

I was looking for a fuse that is only active when the ACC/Engine is on, and ended up using one of the Spare (5A) Not Used locations in the passenger side fuse box. (see image below). I used a volt meter and that one was the only one that was not (HOT) when the engine/ACC is off.

These fuses are a bit weird as they use three prongs, compared to my taps which use two prongs. I tapped in to connect to a VG710 WI-FI modem and it worked perfectly. However, I ran into an issue with FordPass services no longer working when I did this. The onboard Ford Modem stopped communicating and I could no longer Lock/Unlock, Locate or Remote start the Truck through the FordPass App.

When I removed the Fuse Taps and placed the original Fuse back everything worked perfectly fine and FordPass Services started working again.

My question to everyone is, I need to tap into a Fuse (5A) that is only live/hot when the Engine is on. What would everyone recommend?

I attached a photo of the cable that I am using as well.

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[paneubert]

I actually wonder if it is more related to the fact that you installed a WI-FI modem and less than you messed with the fuses. Could the WI-FI modem be overpowering the signal from the onboard modem for FordPass? You could be blasting out a strong enough signal from the aftermarket modem to be washing out the stock modem? Just a thought, since the simple fact of using a spare fuse location should not kill FordPass......

 

[dustmaker]

Hmm i doubt it as the wifi modem goes offline when the vehicle is off and it still does not work.

 

[Hcopter]

Are you sure that both fuses 1 and 2 are not used? I assume you're plugging into only two of the three prongs leaving the third open?

Edit: I looked at a fuse diagram and it does show both 1 and 2 as unused/spare so that shouldn't be an issue. You might try powering your modem from a different source such as the 12v "lighter" plug and see if it still kills Ford Pass. I suppose it's also possible that the computer is seeing the missing fuse, even though it's unused and causing a fault that for some reason disables Ford Pass?

 

[colinl]

I'm not positive about your truck, but fuse 3 and 6 are definitely 12v switched on mine, and they're definitely 10A micro2 fuses. If fuse 1 has 3 prongs that is a micro3 fuse so your micro2 add-on cable will not work.

Assuming your fuse add-on can support a 10A fuse, install it on fuse 3 and try again.

 

[AncientMan]

You might try powering your modem from a different source such as the 12v "lighter" plug and see if it still kills Ford Pass.

That’s a logical troubleshooting suggestion. Good one

 

[MakinDoForNow]

Duh the center leg on a micro 3 fuze is the hot leg a micro 3 fuze is actually two fuzes sharing the hot tap !!!

In a normal 2 legged fuse tap we need to make sure the wire side of the tap is downstream of the hot leg so that the fuse in the tap is actually in the circuit.

With a Micro 3 fuse tap that would not make any difference because the center is the hot leg and either outside leg is downstream. So you can insert the Micro3 fuse tap with the wire up or down. I am running into a switched fuse situation with a Micro3 fuse that doesn't allow me to orient the tap with the wire down due to obstructions in the fuse box.

 

[colinl]

Duh the center leg on a micro 3 fuze is the hot leg a micro 3 fuze is actually two fuzes sharing the hot tap !!!

In a normal 2 legged fuse tap we need to make sure the wire side of the tap is downstream of the hot leg so that the fuse in the tap is actually in the circuit.

With a Micro 3 fuse tap that would not make any difference because the center is the hot leg and either outside leg is downstream. So you can insert the Micro3 fuse tap with the wire up or down. I am running into a switched fuse situation with a Micro3 fuse that doesn't allow me to orient the tap with the wire down due to obstructions in the fuse box.

your post looks suspiciously like a copy-paste from here: reddit post about micro3 fuse tap

I am not sure how it's useful or relevant for the OP, though. speaking of the OP I'm curious if he got this resolved; it should be pretty simple to move his fuse add-on holder to fuse #3 and go.

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