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Kicker 46HS10 hideaway sub - what are your settings?

Kofad

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I've recently installed the Kicker 46HS10 behind the back seats. I still need to mount it to the wall correctly but I've started fiddling to see what I can get out of it.

What settings are you using? I'm on the stock system, not the upgraded B&O. I've set the sub's crossover to around 120hz or so, and the gain and bass boost about half way on the dial. In the system's sound settings, I've gently nudged up the treble and mids, and left the bass at the default center.

It sounds okay, but the bass is pretty muddled.

Maybe I'm expecting too much?
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billbillw

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I'd cross over at 80 or 100Hz. 120 is too high IMO. You also shouldn't boost the mids and treble. You should adjust the bass until it blends. Always subtract, not add EQ.

You didn't mention, but hopefully, you have added some sound deadening material to both the back wall and to the doors. The muddiness can come from cabin vibrations.
 
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I'd cross over at 80 or 100Hz. 120 is too high IMO. You also shouldn't boost the mids and treble. You should adjust the bass until it blends. Always subtract, not add EQ.

You didn't mention, but hopefully, you have added some sound deadening material to both the back wall and to the doors. The muddiness can come from cabin vibrations.
I'll give it a whirl! I haven't added any sound deadening yet, but it's on the list when I do a "final" install!
 

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I dunno... I bought one of these long ago and was not impressed. Audio quality is such a subjective thing and people will say some of the poorest quality audio is great on forums. So my advice is if you are not impressed, get rid of it and full send on a normal sub/amp combo. Keep tweaking, but when I hear someone refer to these setups as muddy I tend to agree, so dont get stuck with it you are not happy after minimal adjustments.
 

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One thing to keep in mind with this product, its not going to "BOOM" like a big box with twin 12" subs and a 1000W amp. It is meant to fill in the low end that is missing from a stock system and add a solid foundation to the music. It will give kick drums a solid thump, it will get the low bass guitar. It won't shake the windows in the neighborhood as you drive through. There are the limitations of physics and in the Maverick, there is not much room unless you want to give up all your under seat storage.

It also really helps if you can do a high-pass on the door speakers (above 80Hz) to keep them from distorting with the low bass that they just cannot produce.
 

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One thing to keep in mind with this product, its not going to "BOOM" like a big box with twin 12" subs and a 1000W amp. It is meant to fill in the low end that is missing from a stock system and add a solid foundation to the music. It will give kick drums a solid thump, it will get the low bass guitar. It won't shake the windows in the neighborhood as you drive through. There are the limitations of physics and in the Maverick, there is not much room unless you want to give up all your under seat storage.

It also really helps if you can do a high-pass on the door speakers (above 80Hz) to keep them from distorting with the low bass that they just cannot produce.
I would compare it to the B&O systems 6x9 essentially. Pretty mid bassy.
 

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Not sure why nobody else has asked this but it seems like the only question that should be asked.....

Where are you getting the signal that feeds the Kicker Hideaway? Hopefully it is not from the rear speakers!
 

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I have the kicker hideaway 8" under my back seat. Sounds great, I was quite impressed coming from two amplified 10-in subs in my last truck.

It blows my B&O 6x9 away. Mine is wired off of the sub speaker inputs to the B&O 6x9.I mounted the bass boost remote knob hidden above the wireless charging pad. I usually have it on about 1/3.

Ford Maverick Kicker 46HS10 hideaway sub - what are your settings? PXL_20230308_231705461
 
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Not sure why nobody else has asked this but it seems like the only question that should be asked.....

Where are you getting the signal that feeds the Kicker Hideaway? Hopefully it is not from the rear speakers!
It's getting signal from the both front speakers. I had initially just tapped into the passanger rear for testing but the difference between both sources is pretty minimal. It sounds okay but for the price, I was expecting a little more "oomph" I suppose.
 

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Not sure why nobody else has asked this but it seems like the only question that should be asked.....

Where are you getting the signal that feeds the Kicker Hideaway? Hopefully it is not from the rear speakers!
Why not from the rear speakers?
 
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Why not from the rear speakers?
They are only 4" speakers and the head unit does not send them a full-bandwidth signal. So you'd be trying to push a sub amp with a signal that has a detrimental EQ from the factory. I believe this is fixable via Forscan, but that is somewhat of a scorched-earth approach if you are planning to keep using rear speakers with no other DSP or crossover.
 

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They are only 4" speakers and the head unit does not send them a full-bandwidth signal. So you'd be trying to push a sub amp with a signal that has a detrimental EQ from the factory. I believe this is fixable via Forscan, but that is somewhat of a scorched-earth approach if you are planning to keep using rear speakers with no other DSP or crossover.
The sub is only handling 120 Hz or lower though, right? So why would it need a full range input-?
 

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The sub is only handling 120 Hz or lower though, right? So why would it need a full range input-?
You misunderstand. The head unit is not sending “120 Hz or lower” to the factory rear speakers. That is the part of the bandwidth that is specifically reduced by the factory EQ. So don’t tap those wires. :wink:
 

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You misunderstand. The head unit is not sending “120 Hz or lower” to the factory rear speakers. That is the part of the bandwidth that is specifically reduced by the factory EQ. So don’t tap those wires. :wink:
Gotcha, makes sense, thanks for clearing up my confusion! (y)
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