Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB

[Montana]

I'm so used to having my tires around 35 PSI cold and on my previous Tacoma around 32 for the E-rated AT3W's, but on these KO2's I felt all kinds of tread squirm so I aired up to 39 cold and it's riding much better. Took off today from the car port and they were 40 as soon as I started rolling, 42 once everything got warmer. I'll keep an eye on the tread wear but I rotate every 5k so it shouldn't be a problem.

Got some plans next week:
- Replacing the brake pads with PowerStop Z23 ceramics.
Part numbers: Z232300 fronts; Z231833A rears
I may do the rotors on the next brake service, but I hope I don't have to. These OEM rotors are not the greatest quality so I likely will anyways.

- Measuring for a full size spare. I'm just going to test with the full size setup I have on now but I will be using a 17x7 steelie and a cheaper all terrain that is 3 peak rated, so I expect there to be a little bit more room and if I have to air down to squeeze it up, that's okay too. I carry a Dewalt 20V Tire Inflator.

- Removing the rear seat so I can measure for my custom storage setup. I plan on keeping it simple since you cannot remove the under seat storage. So that portion will just be flat and on a hinge, but the rear will change later on once I add a sub/amp. I'll be adding sound deadening then hopefully all goes to plan with the measurements and I can re-use some of the brackets to hold everything.

I also stocked up on some fluids, filters, and extra plugs:
Motor oil: Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30
Oil Filter: WIX 51348
Oil Drain Plug: Stahlbus Valve
Brake fluid: Motorcraft PM-20 DOT-4 LV
Coolant: Motorcraft VC13G Yellow 50/50
PTU: Motorcraft SAE 75W-85
PTU Drain Plug: 6C2Z-4N282-AA
RDU: Motorcraft SAE 75W
RDU Drain Plug: GN1Z-4N282-A
Fluid pump for MC Bottles: Lubrimatic 55-001 4CC
Transmission: Mercon ULV XT12QULV
Engine Air Filter: Motorcraft FA1939
Cabin Air Filter: Motorcraft FP100A
Spare PCV hose: Motorcraft KCV332
Alternator/WP belt: Motorcraft JK4521B
A/C belt: Motorcraft JK4362B
Spark Plugs: Motorcraft SP594

I figured since there are only 4 and they are easily accessible, I'd get the spark plugs now just in case to have on hand. Looking to replace every 50-60k. I likely won't buy new Ignition coils unless I have to or at least around 100k. But the part number for those is Motorcraft DG576. I do carry the spare belts in the vehicle just in case. PNW, rural roads, no cell service - the last thing I want is to be stranded because of a belt. And I got the spare PCV tube just in case I messed something up taking the fittings off for the catch can.

And got some spare wiper blades:
Drivers side: WW2054
Passenger side: WW2249

Normally I go for Bosch Icons but they only make them in 22", and for the price the MC OEM ones are good. That, and I'm surprised how well the OEM ones are on the Maverick. They were garbage on the Escape I had, same with pretty much every vehicle before it. But the OEM ones are serviceable. I wrote about it here: How to fix Wiper Blade Chatter

I also have to service the families 2500 6.7L this week. Needs oil (12qt's 5w-40 Rotella T6), fuel filters (2 of them on the 6.7L) and brakes done. They just got some new Wildpeak AT3W's and said they love them. Much quieter than the previous GY Wranglers they had (and a much better rubber). They almost overspent by about $600 with Les Schwab's in house brand tire and I saved them from that disaster. @Discount Tire coming through

Add all that to the list of everything else to do around the property and it's going to be a busy week.

*Edit
Update for the screws and retainers on the FX4 Skid plates:

Screw & Spring Washer: W702413S450B
Nut: W718770S439

Sponsored

 

[Hardening2753]

Finally changed the oil today, was not happy with the Fumoto on this application and decided to order a Stahlbus instead. One, because I had the F137S carried over from a previous Ford Escape 2.5L that I never used it on and two, because to use it on the Maverick 2.0 I needed the ADP-137 1/2" Adapter. I got the adapter on but during tightening it felt like it was about to strip and not even fully seated. So... I'm not willing to break a flimsy piece of soft brass inside the oil pan or the threads and have to fish it out. I'll just use the Stahlbus instead.

I was also a bit worried that it would extend to far and come in contact with the skid plate, but I'm not certain. Just not willing to risk it.

I'd recommend if anyone is trying a Fumoto Valve to get the adjustable F107SX for these setups. Or, just order the Stahlbus since they flow faster and seat better with less protrusion.

Brakes pads are next on the list.

What are your thoughts on fitment for a Valvomax? I have not used either but I mentally prefer this one because it has 2 fail-safes to prevent leaks. The main mechanisms then the dust cap with rubber

 

[Discount Tire]

I'm so used to having my tires around 35 PSI cold and on my previous Tacoma around 32 for the E-rated AT3W's, but on these KO2's I felt all kinds of tread squirm so I aired up to 39 cold and it's riding much better. Took off today from the car port and they were 40 as soon as I started rolling, 42 once everything got warmer. I'll keep an eye on the tread wear but I rotate every 5k so it shouldn't be a problem.

Got some plans next week:
- Replacing the brake pads with PowerStop Z23 ceramics.
Part numbers: Z232300 fronts; Z231833A rears
I may do the rotors on the next brake service, but I hope I don't have to. These OEM rotors are not the greatest quality so I likely will anyways.

- Measuring for a full size spare. I'm just going to test with the full size setup I have on now but I will be using a 17x7 steelie and a cheaper all terrain that is 3 peak rated, so I expect there to be a little bit more room and if I have to air down to squeeze it up, that's okay too. I carry a Dewalt 20V Tire Inflator.

- Removing the rear seat so I can measure for my custom storage setup. I plan on keeping it simple since you cannot remove the under seat storage. So that portion will just be flat and on a hinge, but the rear will change later on once I add a sub/amp. I'll be adding sound deadening then hopefully all goes to plan with the measurements and I can re-use some of the brackets to hold everything.

I also stocked up on some fluids & filters:
Motor oil: Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30
Oil Filter: WIX XP 51348XP
Brake fluid: Motorcraft PM-20 DOT-4 LV
Coolant: Motorcraft VC13G Yellow 50/50
PTU: Motorcraft SAE 75W-85
RDU: Motorcraft SAE 75W
Transmission: Mercon ULV XT12QULV
Air Filter: Motorcraft FA1939
Cabin Air Filter: Motorcraft FP100A
Spare PCV hose: Motorcraft KCV332 (since I replaced it with the catch can)
Alternator/WP belt: Motorcraft JK4521B
A/C belt: Motorcraft JK4362B
Spark Plugs: Motorcraft SP594

I figured since there are only 4 and they are easily accessible, I'd get the spark plugs now just in case to have on hand. Looking to replace every 50-60k. I likely won't buy new Ignition coils unless I have to or at least around 100k. But the part number for those is Motorcraft DG576. I do carry the spare belts in the vehicle just in case. PNW, rural roads, no cell service - the last thing I want is to be stranded because of a belt. And I got the spare PCV tube just in case I messed something up taking the fittings off for the catch can.

And got some spare wiper blades:
Drivers side: WW2054
Passenger side: WW2249

Normally I go for Bosch Icons but they only make them in 22", and for the price the MC OEM ones are good. That, and I'm surprised how well the OEM ones are on the Maverick. They were garbage on the Escape I had, same with pretty much every vehicle before it. But the OEM ones are serviceable. I wrote about it here: How to fix Wiper Blade Chatter

I also have to service the families 2500 6.7L this week. Needs oil (12qt's 5w-40 Rotella T6), fuel filters (2 of them on the 6.7L) and brakes done. They just got some new Wildpeak AT3W's and said they love them. Much quieter than the previous GY Wranglers they had (and a much better rubber). They almost overspent by about $600 with Les Schwab's in house brand tire and I saved them from that disaster. @Discount Tire coming through

Add all that to the list of everything else to do around the property and it's going to be a busy week.

Thank you for the recommendation! Much appreciated.

 

[Ponchsox]

I've had the other version of the Bugflector that is flush with the hood but has that little bump in the middle on a previous Tacoma. I didn't like the fact that it was not totally sealed underneath. There were tons of spots for debris to enter and fester underneath. I almost considered removing it before I sold the Tacoma just to see how bad it was after two years, but I chose not to. Not my problem anymore haha!

The smoke one I have on the maverick I've also had on a previous F150 and I loved it. It does a lot more for deflection, even though as you mentioned, they do protrude a bit. It definitely does not stick out much or I wouldn't have bought it either.

Onto some installation tips and walkthrough:
You will need some double sided tape to put the weather stripping back up in the spots the visor and it's clips have taken over because AVS did not provide any and the clips no longer retain it like the stock ones did. Don't lose faith - it's still a VERY easy process and a decent product compared to the other options. You may also have to drill a correct hole in one single location as many people on this forum have noted that one does not line up. Don't get all bothered by it and just fix it yourself. It's simple. Moving on...

As for the mounting, you have to remove the weather stripping in 4 spots and they provide new (very crappy) clips. Use a grease pen to mark under the hood where the holes are on the visor when you are test fitting it. Doesn't have to be exact, just so you know which clips to pull and what portion of weather stripping they are under.

The stock clips are inside the weather stripping, so when you pull to either side gently and downwards, the weather stripping will pop off. Then you use a pry tool to remove the stock clips. They get discarded, but you may want to retain them for the future if you plan to resell or something. Label that bag and put it with anything else you might have saved - like stock clips from mudflaps or the extra 12v cable they put in the glovebox when you buy the truck.

Now you are good to put the visor back up and start installing clips. You will install them UNDER the weather stripping and they do not provide any adhesive to put the weather stripping back on, so it's a good time to plan on adding some. I used a thin layer of double sided extra strength 3M. Start left to right because the far right hole may not line up. I'll cover this in the next paragraph as it's an easy fix that most people over react to and try to return the product. All you have to do is drill a new hole, but if you start on that side it will be much harder. So, working left to right (and assuming said far right hole does not line up properly), get your replacement clips on the first 3 holes in place. They will screw in and they are plastic, so be gentle. No need to torque them down. In fact, wait until after the final screw is in place to finalize tightening everything, but get them snug enough the visor does not move.

As many have mentioned on this forum and I stated earlier, often there is one hole on the visor that does not line up. So now that you have all the other 3 clips in place, you can drill the correct hole. You are not drilling into the hood, just the plastic of the visor. Of you got lucky and yours does line up, obviously skip this step and you are done after the 4th clip. If not, drill the hole needed or extend the current one. The clip will still retain the visor due to it's lip.

Now your Bugflector II is mounted. Notice how the weather stripping just kind of hangs there. It's not super loose, it won't fall, it will still seal, but why not add some double sided tape to those spots? I measured about 3" of double sided 3M for each one and applied it to the visor, then stuck the weather stripping to it. Violla - stand back and marvel at your master mechanic skills and realize you can never expect a 100% product from any company anymore. You are now equipped to take on any challenge life throws at you

Here are some pic underneath after it's all said and done (please excuse the bug guts, it's 90 degrees in rural Montana and I chose a day I didn't feel like cleaning to show you this lol):

So, all that said... it's a product that deserves 3 stars because of the modifications needed, but if it wasn't for that it would be a 5 star rating in my opinion. Again, I think it's better than the options that stick to the hood and not even close to worth the hassle for a return. Even if I got it via Amazon prime and stuck it back in the box for a quick drop off, it wouldn't be worth returning. I'm a DIY kinda guy and this was simple grade school stuff.

I hope this was helpful!

You need some hood struts

 

[Montana]

You need some hood struts

lol I was just thinking the same. Added to the cart but saved for later. I've had them on 2 previous vehicles and tbh, I hate messing with the hood. But I'll get them eventually.

*Edit... nope. Too many people reporting issues because of them. I'm good. Hard pass on the hood struts for this vehicle. I didn't like having to install them on the previous Tacoma due to needing to unbolt both hood bolts and try to maneuver stuff in place. I do like them, but it's not something I'll likely install unless it only requires the removal of one bolt and not on the Maverick, since it screws with the already too loose cable that releases the hood.

 

[Montana]

Confirmed today that a full size 245/65R17 does fit as a spare with plenty of room. However... ran into an issue and thought I had broken the housing for the tool that drops the spare. Tightening the full size I had the complex design that needs a degree to figure out how to piece it through the wheel in order all messed up and it pulled too much on the guide to the part you hook into. Also, why can't they just make the damn tool 1/4th or 3/8's size. It just has to be some proprietary part between those two so you can't fit your own tools on it. Smh.

But this is what happened:

So immediately I thought the worse because it looks like the housing was bent during the process. Turns out they don't secure that guide to anything the entire way though. It's just loose and the only attachment it has is at the bumper. So I wedged a pry bar in there from the exhaust side and was able to pry it down very easily to get the tool back on and lower the full size spare (which was my drive tire that I was testing).

I will say that the amount of effort to get the spare down and out from the wheel was appalling. First, you need to remove a 21mm bolt that is attached to a safety line. Then you can lower and you have to give it about a foot of slack because once the tire is on the ground you will need to feed the slack through so you can wedge one piece at a time through the wheel - but first you have to slid off a little blue spacer. So imagine doing all this on the side of the road or anywhere for that matter and not knowing any of this. It's a good thing I tested this. I always check the spare regularly but I never thought I would need a degree to figure out how to lower one. By far the most complex setup I have ever dealt with and you will hate it if you ever have to use your spare.

Onto the next task...

Brakes. Well, the truck wouldn't go into brake service mode. Apparently there is a TSB on it. There is a single thread on it here. So now because my truck won't go into service mode, the only thing I can do is front brakes. This means EVERY SINGLE TIME I need brakes I have to take it in to get the rears done and pay someone for such a simple task.

@Ford Motor Company , you guys need to figure out a solution for this. Because currently your solution is to take it into someone equipped with a Ford Diagnosis and Repair System (FDRS) scan tool to activate the Brake Service Mode. Run the ABS-Electronic Parking Brake (EPB) Service Tools app and select enter park brake maintenance mode. Normal people do not have these things. I have Forscan and it can't even be done on that. FDRS cost way too much money to invest in to simply change my brakes, and I'm not paying someone else hundreds of dollars for something that costs $50 and 2 hours tops. That is not a solution. This needs to be a TSB and have an actual fix. Please address this issue.

Obviously I'm not happy about all this and today kinda sucked. Two VERY simple tasks and it took me all day. I guess I'll see what the local dealer says tomorrow about all this, but honestly, I kinda feel like this is what happens when a majority of people don't know how to service their own brakes. Hell, people can't even change their own oil...

For reference, here is what you are SUPPOSED to be able to do:

Seriously annoying. At this point, if this system is this complicated, I'd rather have rear drums and a cable parking brake. I can't help but wonder how many people are totally clueless due to how new these setups are and just paying other people (dealerships) to work on their vehicles for the sake of convenience and if FORD will ever develop a fix for those reasons. Hopefully I am proved wrong, but I won't let the issue get buried for all the people that have noticed the issue and will continue to in the future.

On a good note, I got my TuxMats and my ratcheting cargo divider today. I also found someone on the Marketplace here selling an entire set of the LasFit LED's for $100, so I pulled that trigger. I do have the turns already and I don't need the switchbacks, so if anyone is reading this I do plan on listing them, PM me if interested.

Everything else looks good, at 12k and no signs of CV issues. No fluid leaks from my PTU / RDU servicing and recent oil change (I always like to check just to make sure... I've made a mistake once in my life before...) and I have a big fishing week planned coming up soon so I'm staying positive for that

But damn... stupid brakes...

 

[groovesocket]

OP, What did you purchase for the Wiper Arm/Hood Protection?

 

[Grumpa]

We have to stop meetinglikethis! lol

'22 Maverick Lariat Lux FX4 Ecoboost


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Modifications:

• 245/65R17 KO2's
• AlphaEquipt Foxtrot's
• J&L Catch Can (PCV)
• EGR Window Deflectors (In Channel)
• AVS Bugflector II (Smoke)
• LoMax Tri-Fold Tonneau Cover (Urethane)
• DeeZee Tailgate Assist
• RokBlokz
• TuxMat Floor Liners
• Stubby JR. Antenna
• Tint (15% fronts, 5% rears, 5% sunstrip)
• Viofo A139 Dashcam
• Removed Wheel Air Dams
• Double Honk Disabled
• Tow/Sand Removed
• Sport Mode Added
• Seatbelt Chime Disabled
• Turn Signal Outage Disabled
• Lasfit LED kit
• Stahlbus Valve
• Wiper Arm/Hood Protection
• Top Gun Maverick Decal
• Tailgate Letters
• RAM Magnetic Phone Mount
• Muslogy bed net
• Keeper - Ratcheting Cargo Bar
• Blank Trail Hitch Cover

Future modifications:

• Timbren Bumpstops
• Audio (10" sub/amps/sound dampening)
• Full Size Steelie Spare
• Bed Storage/Removeable Sectionals
• Lift? Not likely. I've lifted everything I've ever owned. I don't need it.

I did remove the FX4 sticker but have no plans to de-badge, de-chrome, paint/cover anything else. If I was going to do anything in regard to that stuff, it would be the factory blackout headlights/taillights. I'll be sure to update this post in the future to stay current.

We have to stop meeting like this! lol

 

[Montana]

OP, What did you purchase for the Wiper Arm/Hood Protection?

Here ya go:

Edge Trim

 

[My Maverick and Me]

'22 Maverick Lariat Lux FX4 Ecoboost


View attachment 112633

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View attachment 112631

View attachment 112632

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Modifications:

• 245/65R17 KO2's
• AlphaEquipt Foxtrot's
• J&L Catch Can (PCV)
• EGR Window Deflectors (In Channel)
• AVS Bugflector II (Smoke)
• LoMax Tri-Fold Tonneau Cover (Urethane)
• DeeZee Tailgate Assist
• RokBlokz
• TuxMat Floor Liners
• Stubby JR. Antenna
• Tint (15% fronts, 5% rears, 5% sunstrip)
• Viofo A139 Dashcam
• Removed Wheel Air Dams
• Double Honk Disabled
• Tow/Sand Removed
• Sport Mode Added
• Seatbelt Chime Disabled
• Turn Signal Outage Disabled
• Lasfit LED kit
• Stahlbus Valve
• Wiper Arm/Hood Protection
• Top Gun Maverick Decal
• Tailgate Letters
• RAM Magnetic Phone Mount
• Muslogy bed net
• Keeper - Ratcheting Cargo Bar
• Blank Trail Hitch Cover

Future modifications:

• Timbren Bumpstops
• Audio (10" sub/amps/sound dampening)
• Full Size Steelie Spare
• Bed Storage/Removeable Sectionals
• Lift? Not likely. I've lifted everything I've ever owned. I don't need it.

I did remove the FX4 sticker but have no plans to de-badge, de-chrome, paint/cover anything else. If I was going to do anything in regard to that stuff, it would be the factory blackout headlights/taillights. I'll be sure to update this post in the future to stay current.

Wow! Nice truck.
When I first looked at it and saw those tires I would have sworn you had a lift on it. It looks like a lot of clearance from the tires to the fenders. Nice looking truck. Why did you disable the Sand mode? I'm presuming you disabled the Tow mode because you never tow but I don't get the Sand drive mode disabled.

 

[Montana]

I confirmed at the dealer today there is currently NO FIX for vehicles that cannot enter brake service mode. The only option is to pay someone with FDRS then the service app.

It's not even a TSB... it's an SSM. I'm very flustered by this failure. This kind of thing should not happen and it's happening across tons of FORDs with EPB's. The dealer said they had to do it for a Mach E and a couple F150's this year already. I have no issue with recalls and TSB's but this isn't even being addressed.

I tried doing it again today, thinking I did something wrong. But after 20 times it's clearly not me. I was able to do the seatbelt chime sequence in 3 tries.

I'm going to try and update this thread on a more positive not but it may take me a while after this disaster.

I did order some more goodies today at least:

These to replace the center covers on my AlphaEquipt Foxtrots

Maybe help bring back the stock look a little more since I went pretty aggressive with the wheels and tires. I also got some chrome lug nuts to sort of tie in the bright accents on the front and the rear badging, and I plan to add an FX4 sticker in a grey variant but I'd like to find one with a silver outside lining to also tie in the lighter accent colors. Still looking on that one. I found this one but I'm worried I won't like it once it's on the truck.

Pic is not from a Maverick and it's sitting really low, but just showing for the color options.

Opinions welcome.

Wow! Nice truck.
When I first looked at it and saw those tires I would have sworn you had a lift on it. It looks like a lot of clearance from the tires to the fenders. Nice looking truck. Why did you disable the Sand mode? I'm presuming you disabled the Tow mode because you never tow but I don't get the Sand drive mode disabled.

Thank you!

Sand mode is exactly the same as Mud according to the manual. It's just another mode to get unstuck.

 

[groovesocket]

Here ya go:

Edge Trim

Thanks. I didn't know you meant door edge trim on the hood edge. I thought it was some plastic piece that fits beneath the wipers and hood.

 

[Montana]

Thanks. I didn't know you meant door edge trim on the hood edge. I thought it was some plastic piece that fits beneath the wipers and hood.

You could find something that wraps around the wiper arms if you dont want to stretch a molding across the hood. I actually didn't consider doing this until just now because I've used that molding for so many other things like tool racks and gun racks, so I didn't buy it specifically for the hood and was extra I had stored. It just kinda popped in my head since my Maverick is used and the paint is already chipped there on the hood. But I suspect something thin with a strong adhesive backing, like a black felt or carpet like material, would be small enough to not be so obvious and durable enough to withstand years of use when placed directly on the wiper arm.

 

[Radman73]

Outstanding write-ups and solid suggestions/links man. Truck looks fantastic.

 

[thev8man]

'22 Maverick Lariat Lux FX4 Ecoboost


View attachment 112633

View attachment 112630

View attachment 112631

View attachment 112632

View attachment 112634

View attachment 112635

View attachment 112636

Modifications:

• 245/65R17 KO2's
• AlphaEquipt Foxtrot's
• J&L Catch Can (PCV)
• EGR Window Deflectors (In Channel)
• AVS Bugflector II (Smoke)
• LoMax Tri-Fold Tonneau Cover (Urethane)
• DeeZee Tailgate Assist
• RokBlokz
• TuxMat Floor Liners
• Stubby JR. Antenna
• Tint (15% fronts, 5% rears, 5% sunstrip)
• Viofo A139 Dashcam
• Removed Wheel Air Dams
• Double Honk Disabled
• Tow/Sand Removed
• Sport Mode Added
• Seatbelt Chime Disabled
• Turn Signal Outage Disabled
• Lasfit LED kit
• Stahlbus Valve
• Wiper Arm/Hood Protection
• Top Gun Maverick Decal
• Tailgate Letters
• RAM Magnetic Phone Mount
• Muslogy bed net
• Keeper - Ratcheting Cargo Bar
• Blank Trail Hitch Cover

Future modifications:

• Timbren Bumpstops
• Audio (10" sub/amps/sound dampening)
• Full Size Steelie Spare
• Bed Storage/Removeable Sectionals
• Lift? Not likely. I've lifted everything I've ever owned. I don't need it.

I did remove the FX4 sticker but have no plans to de-badge, de-chrome, paint/cover anything else. If I was going to do anything in regard to that stuff, it would be the factory blackout headlights/taillights. I'll be sure to update this post in the future to stay current.

Pretty darn nefty.

Booyah .

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