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'22 Maverick Lariat Lux FX4 4K Ecoboost

Ford Maverick Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB 012


Ford Maverick Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB 013


Ford Maverick Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB 008


Ford Maverick Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB 009


Ford Maverick Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB 011


Ford Maverick Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB 015


Modifications:
  • 245/65R17 KO2's
  • AlphaEquipt Foxtrot's (17x7.5) (+35 & 27 #'s)
  • AVS Window Deflectors (Smoke - Exterior as of Aug '24)
  • AVS Bugflector II (Smoke)
  • LoMax Tri-Fold Tonneau Cover (Urethane)
  • DeeZee Tailgate Assist
  • RokBlokz
  • TuxMat Floor Liners
  • Stubby JR. Antenna
  • Tint (15% fronts, 5% rears, 5% sunstrip)
  • Viofo A139 Dashcam
  • Removed Wheel Air Dams
  • Double Honk Disabled
  • Tow/Sand Removed
  • Sport Mode Added
  • Seatbelt Chime Disabled
  • Turn Signal Outage Disabled
  • Lasfit LED kit
  • Wiper Arm/Hood Protection
  • Top Gun Maverick Decal
  • Tailgate Letters
  • RAM Magnetic Phone Mount
  • Muslogy bed net
  • Keeper - Ratcheting Cargo Bar
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Some close ups and specifics:

Hood modifications:

Ford Maverick Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB Hood 001


Ford Maverick Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB Hood 002


Interior:
(Full pack out
here on page 3)

Ford Maverick Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB Interior 001


Ford Maverick Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB 20230730_150831


Ford Maverick Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB 20230730_150708


RokBlokz:

Ford Maverick Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB RokBlokz


Tonneau Cover:

Ford Maverick Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB Tonneau Cover


Wheels:

Ford Maverick Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB Wheels 001


Ford Maverick Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB Wheels 002


My previous 2 that I sold for this one:

'22 Tacoma TRD OR DCSB
Ford Maverick Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB 001


Ford Maverick Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB 001

Modifications:
  • 285/70R17 Falken Wildpeak AT3's (E rated) (Full size spare and wheel tucked under bed)
  • 17" Black Rhino Stadiums (0 offset)
  • IronMan Stage 2 Foam Cell Pro 3" lift
  • ECGS Bushing
  • Nitro 4.88's
  • KDMax Pro Tune
  • LoMax Tri-fold hard tonneau cover
  • Swing out bed boxes
  • Tint (15 front, 5 rears)
  • Predator Steps
  • Rough Country 30" lightbar
  • Diode Dynamic SS3 Pro fogs
  • Diode Dynamic SSC2 ditch
  • OEM Plus Audio Reference 500
  • AVS Aeroskin II hood deflector
  • AVS low profile matte window deflector
  • Viofo A139 3ch Dashcam
  • VLED Footwell Lighting (blue dimmable)
  • Tacoma OEM Bedmat
  • Cali-Raised bed tie downs
  • Total Chaos Bed Stiffners
  • Fumoto Valve
  • MESO Total Tail V1
  • TRD skid plate
  • DRT Fabrication LCA Skids
  • KTJO Grab Handle
  • AMP-Research Bed Step
'22 Ford Escape SE 2.5L Hybrid Sport AWD
Ford Maverick Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB 001

Modifications:

  • Falken Wildpeak Trails
  • Tint (15 front, 5 rears)
  • Lasfit LED's

I'm...
Ford Maverick Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB www.coloradofans

Downsizing
 
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Like the Lomax cover. How’s the urethane finish with dirt and cleaning?
 

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Nice job! How were you able to disable the double honk?
 

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So, first things first - full disclosure - I bought the truck used with 11k miles. It's near impossible to get a Maverick where I live and I drove half a day to CarMax in WA to inspect it after paying $99 to have them ship from Oregon. Which one of you traded in this beautiful "not a truck" in Portland? (actually kind of surprised it arrived without any fire damage ;) )

I was able to get them down $2k on asking price due to some obvious signs of a previous owner or else I would have walked. I could have gone with a lower mileage one but I didn't like any of the colors, and there were only a few Ecoboost AWD versions. I had been scouting for a year and even had an order in for a '23 Chevy Colorado. When I saw a fully loaded Maverick in a color I liked that looked to be in good condition, I jumped on it. The only thing this one doesn't have is the 4k tow wheels with the Wildpeaks.

After seeing the options/price increase and all other changes to the '24's, I'm glad I didn't wait or try to place an order. I may revisit later on when they come to an end year model with all the kinks worked out (lol.. a FORD with the kinks worked out... yea right). Maybe around '27, or '28? Only time will tell. I'm happy with what I have.

At 12k miles, my stock PCV tube was definitely pretty gross. I'm going to run a Seafoam heat soak through the truck the same time I change my oil, and put a can directly into the oil then run it for a short trip just before I change. I already checked and the oil was definitely changed at least once. They used a cheap CarQuest filter and likely cheap oil, but it's currently at 82% with the 700 miles I've put on it. I personally use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and WIX XP filters.

Also, here is a pic of the zip tie locations I used when I removed the front wheel air dams:

Ford Maverick Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB 20230702_161817


I drilled one hole in the "carpet" lining closest to the skid plates and another one in the plastic below the existing hole in the middle where the plastic clip is removed. The only downside to this is the holes that were under the air dams. I may explore a way to cover these up in the future.

It's not that I wanted a more "aggressive" look or anything, it's just they are REALLY low. I never had an issue in my lower Escape but twice since I've had the Maverick I've scraped them on something, and it's clear the previous owner did too. I'm also pretty sure they parked inside a giant tree... Literally inside of it... Debris removal wasn't crazy, but there was quite a bit. Same with the area the mudflaps installed on, and under that plastic piece where the wipers are. I removed that via the clips near the strut bolts. There was also a fair amount of smaller items lodged in small crevasses in the bed. Nothing crazy - but again, a good reason to negotiate the price down.

I have also already serviced the RDU and the PTU. I posted about it here:
RDU and PTU Service thread

I definitely recommend doing this within the first 5k. It was awful. No way in hell I'd push that fluid to 30k. I will be doing them one more time when I change my oil this week just to flush the remaining crap and old fluid out, then every 20-30k from there on out.

I will also be looking into servicing the transmission, but I have not gotten that far yet. Too often I've seen vehicles come from the factory underfilled. Unfortunately, it does not look like an easy process and I have done very little research about the internal filter and how to change it. The process to drain and refill looks easy enough though.

Lastly, I will also admit I'm not the biggest fan of the KO2's. I've used Wildpeaks in both Trail and AT3W variants on the past couple vehicles. Trails on the Escape and E rated big boi 285/70R17's on the Tacoma. Both rode quieter than the KO2's. So, first and last time with that experiment. I kept the stock wheels for snow tires, but I may divert back to them and just install some Wildpeak AT3W's after the KO2's get down there and sell the wheels with them.

Anyways...

Like the Lomax cover. How’s the urethane finish with dirt and cleaning?
So far it's been a simple wipe down. It's not a gritty matte texture like a bed liner. It may not be as flat as the plastic trim pieces but I think it looks better than the other version they offer. I had that one on a Tacoma and it just doesn't look the same on the Maverick from the pics I have seen. It's really shiny.

Admittedly, I like the look of the REV/FORD one because it has the same finish as the surrounding plastic, but I would rather save $500. The LOMAX fit needed a bit of extra love and it still doesn't really seal near the rear window or the tailgate. It's good enough for me. If I was going for a perfect seal, the REV/FORD version would be a better option from what I hear on this forum.

Comparing the install to both a RAM 2500 and a Tacoma I have done with the same LOMAX cover, it's definitely better on the bigger trucks. There is more room for adjustment and play. There is virtually none on the Maverick, and you need a second person to help push down on the brackets while you tighten to avoid a really poor fit. I never had that issue on the other two I did. I clamped them in place and was able to tighten and adjust very easily.

Overall though, it's good if you want to save that money. I'd likely buy it again due to it's cost.

Nice job! How were you able to disable the double honk?
Here is a link to the video:




Just bear with him lagging and trailing on. It sounds like he is eating something between sentences but he's not, and it's the best video I have seen so far. If you don't want to add sport/eco mode, skip to 5:00. Be advised that if you do not have ForScan, you need to register it and get a free two month trial to use it, on top of buying the correct OBDII adapter. Mine prompted me to update the firmware for the adapter once I was registered and everything. I assume this can only be done on one device, and the lite version cannot apply these settings, so you need something like a laptop to run it. Do not plug into the vehicle's plugs, because you have to cycle on/off. Use a plug in your garage.


Wow the truck looks great. Those rim/tire combos are 10/10. How is the dash cam?
I've used the same dashcam in 3 different vehicles now. It's not 4k unfortunatley, but it's 3 way (front, interior, rear) and that is what I wanted for the most coverage/security. I run it hardwired and use parking mode. My default is a short period, but I change on the fly as needed.

Overall, there are better quality models, but I'm familiar with it, so that's why I got it. I also installed a T130 in my parents RAM 2500 and they love it. Same deal - 3 way protection. That one just has the interior built in and it can swivel. The only issues I've had were in the Hybrid Escape because of the voltage change when the EV kicked in. It would constantly send incorrect signals to the dashcam and screw up the recordings. The only way I found to bypass this was using the USB, which meant no parking mode. I was not fond of this. I have a battery pack from BlackBoxMyCar.com that will last over 24 hours in parking mode on low bitrate recording. I didn't spend $400 to not use it.

In my experience, you encounter a lot of crap on the road, but it's when you leave the vehicle unattended that it's most vulnerable. To anyone who wants security - it ain't cheap. Buy once, cry once.
 
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RonFLA

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Very impressive for sure! What an informative, well written explanation, and review. Thank your for sharing the great photos and for your effort. Well done!
 

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Some close ups and specifics:
Hood modifications:

Hood 001.png

Wheels 002.png
How do you like the Bugflector II? Does it install with clips on the underside of the hood or is it taped to the hood? I can’t tell from other pics if it sticks out too much or if it looks better in person.
 
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How do you like the Bugflector II? Does it install with clips on the underside of the hood or is it taped to the hood? I can’t tell from other pics if it sticks out too much or if it looks better in person.
I've had the other version of the Bugflector that is flush with the hood but has that little bump in the middle on a previous Tacoma. I didn't like the fact that it was not totally sealed underneath. There were tons of spots for debris to enter and fester underneath. I almost considered removing it before I sold the Tacoma just to see how bad it was after two years, but I chose not to. Not my problem anymore haha!

The smoke one I have on the maverick I've also had on a previous F150 and I loved it. It does a lot more for deflection, even though as you mentioned, they do protrude a bit. It definitely does not stick out much or I wouldn't have bought it either.

Onto some installation tips and walkthrough:
You will need some double sided tape to put the weather stripping back up in the spots the visor and it's clips have taken over because AVS did not provide any and the clips no longer retain it like the stock ones did. Don't lose faith - it's still a VERY easy process and a decent product compared to the other options. You may also have to drill a correct hole in one single location as many people on this forum have noted that one does not line up. Don't get all bothered by it and just fix it yourself. It's simple. Moving on...

As for the mounting, you have to remove the weather stripping in 4 spots and they provide new (very crappy) clips. Use a grease pen to mark under the hood where the holes are on the visor when you are test fitting it. Doesn't have to be exact, just so you know which clips to pull and what portion of weather stripping they are under.

The stock clips are inside the weather stripping, so when you pull to either side gently and downwards, the weather stripping will pop off. Then you use a pry tool to remove the stock clips. They get discarded, but you may want to retain them for the future if you plan to resell or something. Label that bag and put it with anything else you might have saved - like stock clips from mudflaps or the extra 12v cable they put in the glovebox when you buy the truck.

Now you are good to put the visor back up and start installing clips. You will install them UNDER the weather stripping and they do not provide any adhesive to put the weather stripping back on, so it's a good time to plan on adding some. I used a thin layer of double sided extra strength 3M. Start left to right because the far right hole may not line up. I'll cover this in the next paragraph as it's an easy fix that most people over react to and try to return the product. All you have to do is drill a new hole, but if you start on that side it will be much harder. So, working left to right (and assuming said far right hole does not line up properly), get your replacement clips on the first 3 holes in place. They will screw in and they are plastic, so be gentle. No need to torque them down. In fact, wait until after the final screw is in place to finalize tightening everything, but get them snug enough the visor does not move.

As many have mentioned on this forum and I stated earlier, often there is one hole on the visor that does not line up. So now that you have all the other 3 clips in place, you can drill the correct hole. You are not drilling into the hood, just the plastic of the visor. Of you got lucky and yours does line up, obviously skip this step and you are done after the 4th clip. If not, drill the hole needed or extend the current one. The clip will still retain the visor due to it's lip.

Now your Bugflector II is mounted. Notice how the weather stripping just kind of hangs there. It's not super loose, it won't fall, it will still seal, but why not add some double sided tape to those spots? I measured about 3" of double sided 3M for each one and applied it to the visor, then stuck the weather stripping to it. Violla - stand back and marvel at your master mechanic skills and realize you can never expect a 100% product from any company anymore. You are now equipped to take on any challenge life throws at you :cool:

Here are some pic underneath after it's all said and done (please excuse the bug guts, it's 90 degrees in rural Montana and I chose a day I didn't feel like cleaning to show you this lol):

Ford Maverick Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB 001


Ford Maverick Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB 002


So, all that said... it's a product that deserves 3 stars because of the modifications needed, but if it wasn't for that it would be a 5 star rating in my opinion. Again, I think it's better than the options that stick to the hood and not even close to worth the hassle for a return. Even if I got it via Amazon prime and stuck it back in the box for a quick drop off, it wouldn't be worth returning. I'm a DIY kinda guy and this was simple grade school stuff.

I hope this was helpful!
 
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Looks great. Nice color choice. I really like all the mods you have done to your Maverick.
 
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So, first things first - full disclosure - I bought the truck used with 11k miles. It's near impossible to get a Maverick where I live and I drove half a day to CarMax in WA to inspect it after paying $99 to have them ship from Oregon.

I was able to get them down $2k on asking price due to some obvious signs of a previous owner or else I would have walked. I could have gone with a lower mileage one but I didn't like any of the colors, and there were only a few Ecoboost AWD versions. I had been scouting for a year and even had an order in for a '23 Chevy Colorado. When I saw a fully loaded Maverick in a color I liked that looked to be in good condition, I jumped on it. The only downside is that it does NOT have the 4k tow package. I don't really need it, but I would love it for the gearing alone.

After seeing the options/price increase and all other changes to the '24's, I'm glad I didn't wait or try to place an order. I may revisit later on when they come to an end year model with all the kinks worked out (lol.. a FORD with the kinks worked out... yea right). Maybe around '27, or '28? Only time will tell. I'm happy with what I have.

Before I get to the questions, Here is a link to the J&L Oil Separator I used. Shop around. I got mine on Summit for a little cheaper. It installs on the PCV (dirty) side.




Be advised they have multiple different videos with a couple unnecessary steps. This is the best video on the Mavericks. I personally used white lithium to grease the fittings/tubes and it was still quite the workout getting them snug. I suspect they could have gone up a size and just included some hose clamps, but it is what it is. No doubt if you find a decent dual chamber catch can, you can buy the tubes and a set of hose clamps from the hardware store yourself. I didn't go this route but after installing it, I see no reason to not just buy a cheap one on Amazon as long as it has the filter on the intake side to prevent sucking oil back up.

At 12k miles, my stock PCV tube was definitely pretty gross. I'm going to run a Seafoam heat soak through the truck the same time I change my oil, and put a can directly into the oil then run it for a short trip just before I change. I already checked and the oil was definitley changed at least once. They used a cheap CarQuest filter and likely cheap oil, but it's currently at 82% with the 700 miles I've put on it. I personally use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and WIX filters, and I also need to install my Fumoto valve. The only reason I am using a Fumoto valve is because I never used it on the Escape Hybrid I had before this truck. If I had to buy a new one, I'd buy Stahlbus - mainly because people report it drains faster and has less protrusion from the pan.

Also, here is a pic of the zip tie locations I used when I removed the front wheel air dams:

20230702_161817.jpg


I drilled one hole in the "carpet" lining closest to the skid plates and another one in the plastic below the existing hole in the middle where the plastic clip is removed. The only downside to this is the holes that were under the air dams. I may explore a way to cover these up in the future.

It's not that I wanted a more "aggressive" look or anything, it's just they are REALLY low. I never had an issue in my lower Escape but twice since I've had the Maverick I've scraped them on something, and it's clear the previous owner did too. I'm also pretty sure they parked inside a giant tree... Literally inside of it... Debris removal wasn't crazy, but there was quite a bit. Same with the area the mudflaps installed on, and under that plastic piece where the wipers are. I removed that via the clips near the strut bolts. There was also a fair amount of smaller items lodged in small crevasses in the bed. Nothing crazy - but again, a good reason to negotiate the price down.

I have also already serviced the RDU and the PTU. I posted about it here:
RDU and PTU Service thread

I definitely recommend doing this within the first 5k. It was awful. No way in hell I'd push that fluid to 30k. I will be doing them one more time when I change my oil this week just to flush the remaining crap and old fluid out, then every 20-30k from there on out.

I will also be looking into servicing the transmission, but I have not gotten that far yet. Too often I've seen vehicles come from the factory underfilled. Unfortunately, it does not look like an easy process and I have done very little research about the internal filter and how to change it. The process to drain and refill looks easy enough though.

Lastly, I will also admit I'm not the biggest fan of the KO2's. I've used Wildpeaks in both Trail and AT3W variants on the past couple vehicles. Trails on the Escape and E rated big boi 285/70R17's on the Tacoma. Both rode quieter than the KO2's. So, first and last time with that experiment. I kept the stock wheels for snow tires, but I may divert back to them and just install some Wildpeak AT3W's after the KO2's get down there and sell the wheels with them.

Anyways...



So far it's been a simple wipe down. It's not a gritty matte texture like a bed liner. It may not be as flat as the plastic trim pieces but I think it looks better than the other version they offer. I had that one on a Tacoma and it just doesn't look the same on the Maverick from the pics I have seen. It's really shiny.

Admittedly, I like the look of the REV/FORD one because it has the same finish as the surrounding plastic, but I would rather save $500. The LOMAX fit needed a bit of extra love and it still doesn't really seal near the rear window or the tailgate. It's good enough for me. If I was going for a perfect seal, the REV/FORD version would be a better option from what I hear on this forum.

Comparing the install to both a RAM 2500 and a Tacoma I have done with the same LOMAX cover, it's definitely better on the bigger trucks. There is more room for adjustment and play. There is virtually none on the Maverick, and you need a second person to help push down on the brackets while you tighten to avoid a really poor fit. I never had that issue on the other two I did. I clamped them in place and was able to tighten and adjust very easily.

Overall though, it's good if you want to save that money. I'd likely buy it again due to it's cost.



Here is a link to the video:




Just bear with him lagging and trailing on. It sounds like he is eating something between sentences but he's not, and it's the best video I have seen so far. If you don't want to add sport/eco mode, skip to 5:00. Be advised that if you do not have ForScan, you need to register it and get a free two month trial to use it, on top of buying the correct OBDII adapter. Mine prompted me to update the firmware for the adapter once I was registered and everything. I assume this can only be done on one device, and the lite version cannot apply these settings, so you need something like a laptop to run it. Do not plug into the vehicle's plugs, because you have to cycle on/off. Use a plug in your garage.




I've used the same dashcam in 3 different vehicles now. It's not 4k unfortunatley, but it's 3 way (front, interior, rear) and that is what I wanted for the most coverage/security. I run it hardwired and use parking mode. My default is a short period, but I change on the fly as needed. Overall, there are better quality models, but I'm familiar with it, so that's why I got it. I also installed a T130 in my parents RAM 2500 and they love it. Same deal - 3 way protection. That one just has the interior built in and it can swivel. The only issues I've had were in the Hybrid Escape because of the voltage change when the EV kicked in. It would constantly send incorrect signals to the dashcam and screw up the recordings. The only way I found to bypass this was using the USB, which meant no parking mode. I was not fond of this. I have a battery pack from BlackBoxMyCar.com that will last over 24 hours in parking mode on low bitrate recording. I didn't spend $400 to not use it. In my experience, you encounter a lot of crap on the road, but it's when you leave the vehicle unattended that it's most vulnerable. To anyone who wants security - it ain't cheap. Buy once, cry once.
Lots of great information in this write up. I got a kick when you said the Ford working the kinks out lol
 

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Ford Maverick Montana's Maverick - '22 Lariat Lux FX4 4K EB youre-welcome



;)
 
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Finally changed the oil today, was not happy with the Fumoto on this application and decided to order a Stahlbus instead. One, because I had the F137S carried over from a previous Ford Escape 2.5L that I never used it on and two, because to use it on the Maverick 2.0 I needed the ADP-137 1/2" Adapter. I got the adapter on but during tightening it felt like it was about to strip and not even fully seated. So... I'm not willing to break a flimsy piece of soft brass inside the oil pan or the threads and have to fish it out. I'll just use the Stahlbus instead.

I was also a bit worried that it would extend to far and come in contact with the skid plate, but I'm not certain. Just not willing to risk it.

I'd recommend if anyone is trying a Fumoto Valve to get the adjustable F107SX for these setups. Or, just order the Stahlbus since they flow faster and seat better with less protrusion.

Brakes pads are next on the list.
 

MavFromTheDead

2.0L EcoBoost
Well-known member
First Name
Derek
Joined
Nov 19, 2022
Threads
9
Messages
231
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Location
Leander, Texas
Vehicle(s)
XLT Tremor
Engine
2.0L EcoBoost
Clubs
 
I almost switched up to Carbonized Grey from Avalanche. My current car is basically that color (and I love it), but wanted to change it up. Your truck looks tastefully done.
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