'22 15k mile transmission fluid drain steps.

[Chrysler]

I have just done my Ford Maverick 22 2.0 AWD transmission fluid drain at 15xxxmiles. I did my rear "diff" and front ptu at 13k. I HIGHLY recommend people doing the ptu and diff immediately. Both on my truck were low on fluid. (0.7qt vs 0.9-1qt to fill) and the rear diff drain bolt had a thick film of metallic debre from the magnetic catch. ( I drive respectful, and towed a small boat probably 1xxx miles of the 13xxx (1,000 pounds of people, boat, equipment).
I do not recommend buying parts from Ford. Cost more then double compared to rock auto.

The transmission fluid change is actually easy. The tranny takes ULV mercon.

1. Remove engine carpet/ undercarriage cover. T30 screws
2. Open up engine hood, remove air filter.
3. Find transmission cap. ( It will be a black rubberized cap with a red triangle on it.) *Location is just left of your battery* take cap off, it pulls right up.
4. Remove drain plug. (14 mm bolt)
5. Wait, take pride that you saved money doing yourself.
6. Re attach drain plug. (14mm)
7. Measure amount you removed. * I used a kitchen measuring cup (my cup could go to 3qt, so I measured, drained into a oil container, repeated till drain pot empty)
8. Add the amount you took out back in.
9. Start Maverick, 5 seconds in each gear. P,R,N,D. repeat going back to park. D,N,T,P. Go for a 15 minute drive, or enough to heat everything up for a bit. Keep Maverick on, in park after completion.
10. Find level plug on driver side by tire. Can get to by cranking wheel, or Remove tire. ( Remember to keep vehicle level if removing tire/ put back to level. Measure from floor to a trim line.)
11. Level bolt is a 10mm hex. It is about a foot into the wheel well. It will be next to a sticker that says "ULV mercon -_+2+'8+2w';#" (I can't speak engineer)
12. Remove bolt.
13. Allow excess to drain. *Keeping engine running while this is happening?* ( If someone disagrees, please verify.)
14. Once it is level fluid, re attach drain plug.
*Drain plug and transmission level plug are low torque. ~8# on level, not sure on drain specs. Don't uga duga them with a impact drill.
15. Post on a Maverick forum for others to say you did something completely wrong and then consider if you broke your truck.

Thanks for your time guys n gals, I am a nursing student. I am no means a professional mechanic. I used YouTube and searched for 2020/2021 Ford escape videos of 8f35 procedures as well as for front PTU/ rear Diff procedure. I do not see any information on YouTube for a true Maverick transmission, so here y'all go. If you feel pretty enough to sit in front of a camera n do this procedure for views, more power to you. I for one, am not pretty enough. . The only difference I found, is Escape drain plug is a 7/16th and Maverick was a 14mm.
Cheers.

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[801dute]

I'm confused. Ford doesn't recommend a transmission fluid change until 150K miles (or 30K miles in "Severe" operating conditions). Why did you feel the need to change the fluid at 15k miles?

 

[Chrysler]

I'm confused. Ford doesn't recommend a transmission fluid change until 150K miles (or 30K miles in "Severe" operating conditions). Why did you feel the need to change the fluid at 15k miles?

Well, I changed it at 15k instead of 30k because I did the ptu and diff at 13k instead of 30k n found both to be of poor quality. Both the PTU and Diff were black, and diff had a good amount of metal. I understand break in is normal, and I do not want that to stay floating in my fluids longer then it needs to. One with that information would then lead to suspect other systems to be of similar nature. So 2k miles later I finally had warmer weather n some fluids on hand to do the work. I am also going to Colorado in a month and will be doing pikes peak among other not so normal driving conditions n wanted everything clean before the trip. You can never do fluids too early. Call it a waste of money, but it cost me $40 in fluid n 2 hours of my time and now I have peace of mind that is far worth $40. I hope you have a good day. After this summer vacations. I'll be doing a transmission fluid drain, ptu drain, and diff drain at about 25-30k miles. At which point I will wait till 75k miles and do it. Everyone drives different, a manual can't adjust for that. I don't mind spending money and trusting my vehicle.

 

[801dute]

Ok. I mean it's your truck so that's up to you. I wouldn't call driving up a mountain "Severe" conditions, though. I've been driving in the mountains of UT/CO my whole life and have always stuck to the normal intervals without any issues.

I'm not criticizing your decision, just trying to understand the logic.

 

[Chrysler]

I appreciate the feedback. My thoughts are this is my first new vehicle, and I plan to baby it as much as I can. If your vehicles can make it, then I feel good about my chances. Just wanted to post information on a forum so others knew the outline for the job. I will delete my posts once I see YouTubers make videos on truck. I was the first oil change on YouTube with my Maverick. Believe it or not. 1-2 months later I deleted it once I saw people post good quality content finally. This forum will be no different.

 

[crunchie_frog]

Ok. I mean it's your truck so that's up to you. I wouldn't call driving up a mountain "Severe" conditions, though. I've been driving in the mountains of UT/CO my whole life and have always stuck to the normal intervals without any issues.

I'm not criticizing your decision, just trying to understand the logic.

He has been educated by FordTechMakuloco and so have I. Manufacturer does not own the drive train after 60K miles, I do. Changing fluids is cheaper insurance than extended warranties.

 

[damnclose]

I appreciate the feedback. My thoughts are this is my first new vehicle, and I plan to baby it as much as I can. If your vehicles can make it, then I feel good about my chances. Just wanted to post information on a forum so others knew the outline for the job. I will delete my posts once I see YouTubers make videos on truck. I was the first oil change on YouTube with my Maverick. Believe it or not. 1-2 months later I deleted it once I saw people post good quality content finally. This forum will be no different.

I want to thank you for sharing the information and procedure for those of us that like to know we done it and we are doing our best to maintain our vehicle. As you stated you can't over change fluid in a vehicle and $40 to $50 to prolong a several thousand dollars transmission why would you not.

Please don't delete this post there are lots of people out there that won't post but will use this information. I for one use this forum for information just like this and have found unbelievable amounts of help from people just like you so thank you all for sharing. I hope you are blessed for sharing with others. I have a hybrid and hope someone will share when they have researched this for hybrid transmission as I will do mine some time around 30K.

Again thanks for sharing OP!

 

[kcamp317]

Sounds very similar to the 6F35 equipped vehicles which makes sense since the 8F is of similar design. Easy Peezy to do a dump and fill. I also prefer to change those often forgotten about fluids about every 20k or so as well. Things like the PTU and RDU fluids are a good idea to change out at regular intervals also. So easy to change and require little effort.

 

[Chrysler]

Sounds very similar to the 6F35 equipped vehicles which makes sense since the 8F is of similar design. Easy Peezy to do a dump and fill. I also prefer to change those often forgotten about fluids about every 20k or so as well. Things like the PTU and RDU fluids are a good idea to change out at regular intervals also. So easy to change and require little effort.

Hardest part is paying for the liquid gold Ford puts in those quart jugs. Otherwise it seems to be a relatively easy vehicle to work on. If I owned a lift it would be a dream. Unfortunately, I don't... So it's a lot of wiggling for me.

 

[Sleeper 7]

Great idea these transmissions do a lot of shifting.

 

[Ringo]

Subscribed. Thanks much for posting. I’m an earlier is better than later guy myself.

 

[Senior Master Ford Guy]

I appreciate the feedback. My thoughts are this is my first new vehicle, and I plan to baby it as much as I can. If your vehicles can make it, then I feel good about my chances. Just wanted to post information on a forum so others knew the outline for the job. I will delete my posts once I see YouTubers make videos on truck. I was the first oil change on YouTube with my Maverick. Believe it or not. 1-2 months later I deleted it once I saw people post good quality content finally. This forum will be no different.

I am a 30+ year Ford technician(senior master) and I will let you all in on a little " corporate" maintenance schedule info: there is a consumer rating report on vehicles which pertains to " cost of maintaining " the first year, the second year(etc.), and also by x amount of miles out there. Now, as a manufacturer you want that number to be low and competitive with others, so you make maintenance intervals stretched as far out as possible to lower those numbers. All this with the fact in mind that some of these components you warrant from defects for a set amount of time, so if you can make these components last long enough to make it out of warranty, and yet keep your maintenance cost per "xxx" miles/years competitive, to the consumer who pays attention to these reports, you are going to look good. Long story short (oops too late), there is not a darn thing wrong with doing your fluid maintenance/ changes well short of what the manufacturer recommends, especially if you are planning to keep the vehicle for a long time. And, by doing them while the vehicle is still under warranty you may catch a defect or premature wear( eg. the metal in the differential fluid) that you can report to your authorized warranty repair facility( dealer service) and monitor before the warranty is expired. Obviously if " Chrysler" here takes his Maverick in now they are going to say" your fluid looks great", but with a 5/60K powertrain he can check it again in 15-20K miles or have the dealer check it for abnormal wear/metal content if so be the case. If nothing else, as " Chrysler" stated, at least he has removed what may be normal break in metal wear from his components that could cause damage down the road.

 

[Motorjunkie]

I have just done my Ford Maverick 22 2.0 AWD transmission fluid drain at 15xxxmiles. I did my rear "diff" and front ptu at 13k. I HIGHLY recommend people doing the ptu and diff immediately. Both on my truck were low on fluid. (0.7qt vs 0.9-1qt to fill) and the rear diff drain bolt had a thick film of metallic debre from the magnetic catch. ( I drive respectful, and towed a small boat probably 1xxx miles of the 13xxx (1,000 pounds of people, boat, equipment).
I do not recommend buying parts from Ford. Cost more then double compared to rock auto.

The transmission fluid change is actually easy. The tranny takes ULV mercon.

1. Remove engine carpet/ undercarriage cover. T30 screws
2. Open up engine hood, remove air filter.
3. Find transmission cap. ( It will be a black rubberized cap with a red triangle on it.) *Location is just left of your battery* take cap off, it pulls right up.
4. Remove drain plug. (14 mm bolt)
5. Wait, take pride that you saved money doing yourself.
6. Re attach drain plug. (14mm)
7. Measure amount you removed. * I used a kitchen measuring cup (my cup could go to 3qt, so I measured, drained into a oil container, repeated till drain pot empty)
8. Add the amount you took out back in.
9. Start Maverick, 5 seconds in each gear. P,R,N,D. repeat going back to park. D,N,T,P. Go for a 15 minute drive, or enough to heat everything up for a bit. Keep Maverick on, in park after completion.
10. Find level plug on driver side by tire. Can get to by cranking wheel, or Remove tire. ( Remember to keep vehicle level if removing tire/ put back to level. Measure from floor to a trim line.)
11. Level bolt is a 10mm hex. It is about a foot into the wheel well. It will be next to a sticker that says "ULV mercon -_+2+'8+2w';#" (I can't speak engineer)
12. Remove bolt.
13. Allow excess to drain. *Keeping engine running while this is happening?* ( If someone disagrees, please verify.)
14. Once it is level fluid, re attach drain plug.
*Drain plug and transmission level plug are low torque. ~8# on level, not sure on drain specs. Don't uga duga them with a impact drill.
15. Post on a Maverick forum for others to say you did something completely wrong and then consider if you broke your truck.

Thanks for your time guys n gals, I am a nursing student. I am no means a professional mechanic. I used YouTube and searched for 2020/2021 Ford escape videos of 8f35 procedures as well as for front PTU/ rear Diff procedure. I do not see any information on YouTube for a true Maverick transmission, so here y'all go. If you feel pretty enough to sit in front of a camera n do this procedure for views, more power to you. I for one, am not pretty enough. . The only difference I found, is Escape drain plug is a 7/16th and Maverick was a 14mm.
Cheers.

My question is this. Are you draining the torque converter? If not then you are only changing about half of the transmission fluid.

 

[Chrysler]

My question is this. Are you draining the torque converter? If not then you are only changing about half of the transmission fluid.

When you drain the transmission, you only get half. A flush is 99%, a drain is about 50%. Correct me if I'm wrong. But yes, I did a drain. Feel free to make a post showing how to do torque converter. I merely wanted to tell people how to do a drain on maverick as there is no info on the matter with "Maverick" specifically in the title.

 

[thevol]

Thanks for posting. Any tips for the ptu and rear unit or was it pretty straightforward? Changing fluids early is very smart and prudent maintenance if you plan to own it for the long haul, plus you get to know the vehicle better when you do it yourself.

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