B&O upgrades for Beginners?

[Pucman1]

OK i have read through a lost of posts, but i find the system weak and not defined. With the windows down it doesn't have enough punch. I am fairly competent at changing out parts and working on my own stuff. I wanted to know what to change so you get the best sound. I am on a budget and not trying to break the bank but i just need a some added power and more clarity in the sound. I don't need the bass to drive me out of the front seat. I am a drummer so yes i do turn it up if it is a song i enjoy.

Recommendations?? i know there is a difference in systems but i wasn't sure if the B & O stuff needed repalcing or if components would make it better. I am mainly a solo driver for the work commute.

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[Gullzway]

I just added a Kicker Hideaway to my B&O system under the rear seat yesterday. Makes a Huge difference if your looking for Bass. They are on sale at Best buy now for $250, I got an open box one for $165.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker...-150w-amplifier-black/3526208.p?skuId=3526208

I also replaced my rear speakers with some morel 4-in from crutchfield for $99.

 

[jwilson]

I just added a Kicker Hideaway to my B&O system under the rear seat yesterday. Makes a Huge difference if your looking for Bass. They are on sale at Best buy now for $250, I got an open box one for $165.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker...-150w-amplifier-black/3526208.p?skuId=3526208

I also replaced my rear speakers with some morel 4-in from crutchfield for $99.

How did you wire for power/line level inputs, just split what was going back to the B&O amp?

 

[Gullzway]

How did you wire for power/line level inputs, just split what was going back to the B&O amp?

Yes. I just used 2 quick splice connectors on the B&O sub wires.

 

[All4spl]

Yes. I just used 2 wire combiners(not sure what they're called) on the B&O sub wires.

Those are called T Taps.

 

[Brian_J]

OK i have read through a lost of posts, but i find the system weak and not defined. With the windows down it doesn't have enough punch. I am fairly competent at changing out parts and working on my own stuff. I wanted to know what to change so you get the best sound. I am on a budget and not trying to break the bank but i just need a some added power and more clarity in the sound. I don't need the bass to drive me out of the front seat. I am a drummer so yes i do turn it up if it is a song i enjoy.

Recommendations?? i know there is a difference in systems but i wasn't sure if the B & O stuff needed repalcing or if components would make it better. I am mainly a solo driver for the work commute.

What’s your budget?

 

[Pucman1]

400 maybe a bit more if i split it up....a little here and there

 

[colinl]

Those are called T Taps.

yep. vampire tap informally.

some people hate them, but I think in an environment that will never see high current and will never see water, I think they're fine.

OK i have read through a lost of posts, but i find the system weak and not defined. With the windows down it doesn't have enough punch. I am fairly competent at changing out parts and working on my own stuff. I wanted to know what to change so you get the best sound. I am on a budget and not trying to break the bank but i just need a some added power and more clarity in the sound. I don't need the bass to drive me out of the front seat. I am a drummer so yes i do turn it up if it is a song i enjoy.

Recommendations?? i know there is a difference in systems but i wasn't sure if the B & O stuff needed repalcing or if components would make it better. I am mainly a solo driver for the work commute.

You will get a tremendous return on replacing the door speakers, and might as well buy components and do the dash tweeters at the same time. the B&O system is separately amplifying the 1" dash tweeter and the 6.5" mid in the door.

I put a bass blocker on my tweeter but I know some haven't bothered with that, and as far as I know they haven't destroyed tweeters yet. at any rate, I used this because it's pretty close to the crossover frequency that my components came with. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FXS7RWR?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Listen to whatever you can locally / in person. I use a Focal RSE-165 component set and the 6.5 is a massive upgrade over the stock B&O. The tweeter is also an upgrade, but not as immediately noticeable as the midbass improvement from the 6.5. It has a plastic tweeter dome but I like the sound better than Focal's next tier up, the Flax Evo, which has an aluminum tweeter. I do enjoy the crisp cymbals, but literally everything else those aluminum domes were doing I found kind of harsh.

I wouldn't recommend coaxial 6.5s in the doors because I think including a tweeter would mess with the soundstage and will be heavy on top-end with the coaxials, dash tweeters and center 3.5.

Apply sound deadener to the door panels.

-- OR --
When you're at shops listening, get quotes for installation and deadening the doors. If the number appeals to you more than trying to DIY, go for it.

 

[colinl]

400 maybe a bit more if i split it up....a little here and there

That's enough for a shop to do what I listed in my previous post if they're installing speakers that cost $150, maybe $200.

It's not enough to replace the door speakers and add a powered sub. You could start with a powered sub first, because I do think the 6x9 'sub' is the least impressive part of the B&O system.

I have about $1k in mine. $150 door speakers, $750 amp, sub & wood & other materials. I'm very pleased with the results.

 

[Pucman1]

So i was thinking i could pull and replace the door speakers, But you are saying the wiring and power is adequate out of the B & O system. That would give me a nice change, and if at a later date i needed more depth i could a sub in the rear.

 

[colinl]

So i was thinking i could pull and replace the door speakers, But you are saying the wiring and power is adequate out of the B & O system. That would give me a nice change, and if at a later date i needed more depth i could a sub in the rear.

Yes. I actually expected to be let down by the B&O amp but it's been the opposite.

It plays loud and clear to 30. Stereo mode, speed adjustment off. Bass and other tone controls shouldn't ever be maxed.

 

[Gullzway]

It's not enough to replace the door speakers and add a powered sub. You could start with a powered sub first, because I do think the 6x9 'sub' is the least impressive part of the B&O system.

I thought the rear speakers were the worst part in mine. Turned the fade all the way to the back and they sound worse than my cellphone. The Morel 4" made a difference.

Where did you mount the tweeters for the component speakers, replaced the stock dash ones?
Though I probably won't bother as mine sound good.

 

[bgn]

I thought the rear speakers were the worst part in mine. Turned the fade all the way to the back and they sound worse than my cellphone. The Morel 4" made a difference.

Where did you mount the tweeters for the component speakers, replaced the stock dash ones?
Though I probably won't bother as mine sound good.

The rears are terrible. I wish I never adjusted the fader all the way lol.

 

[Darnon]

From my experience with the B&O system I'd say replace the center speaker first. It sucks slightly having to buy a pair when you need only one, but Infinity Reference are a good choice here and like $50. Maybe JBL if they're cheaper; they're under the same brand umbrella.

I actually didn't notice a huge change swapping door woofers/tweeters but then I replaced them near immediately so I didn't give them much of a run through their paces. A Kicker Key really woke up the JBLs I installed although that alone would be a lion's share of a $400 budget.

 

[colinl]

I thought the rear speakers were the worst part in mine. Turned the fade all the way to the back and they sound worse than my cellphone. The Morel 4" made a difference.

Where did you mount the tweeters for the component speakers, replaced the stock dash ones?
Though I probably won't bother as mine sound good.

I'm sure they do, and if you're sitting back there, it would matter. While you can upgrade them, they are driven by the ACIM, not the B&O amplifier and they have a bandpass filter. They don't play too low, because they're crappy 4" on head unit integrated circuit power, and they don't play high frequencies to keep the soundstage forward.

Fader can be dead in the middle or slightly forward. If you go too far forward it gets real heavy on the center channel at the expense of the doors and dash tweeters. I believe the tipping point is around 2-3 notches forward from center.

If you have the fader (correctly ) set for a front soundstage, the rear speakers do not matter. I cannot hear them ruining my listening experience. This isn't a new or unique idea Ford has. Kicker's popular Key 200.4 amplifier with automatic (and un-tunable) DSP puts a bandpass filter just like that on the rear channels unless you're running it in bi-amp mode. (I just put a Key 200.4 in my son's SUV.) Same thing happens with a home theater receiver, if anyone still has those instead of just a soundbar. Rear channels are fill, not full frequency.

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