NSA Readybrute Elite II tow bar with Roadmaster base plate

[capo99]

Here is what they look like installed. The right turn light is on in the pic. I drilled a hole in the bumper cover and ran the wires behind the bumper, pretty simple to do, the only thing that annoyed me was the wire gauge was pretty tiny coming from the light and it had to join a 16Ga wire so I was not comfortable with the crimped connector. I had go get some of the low temp solder connectors for the first time, an old dog learning a new trick.

Is that the stock length or did you cut them back?

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[Grmpy]

The lights are stock. out of the box and stuck to the bumper.

 

[capo99]

The lights are stock. out of the box and stuck to the bumper.

 

[gwrace14651]

NSA also makes a surge tow bar if you don't want to mess with an electric brake controller. You can then use a set of magnetic lights that plug into the motorhome 4 or 7 pin harness hitch connector.
https://nsarvproducts.com/collectio...brake-towed-vehicle-supplemental-brake-system

 

[BDennis]

Linda,

I like your mounting bracket better than mine for the cable. Did you buy it or simply bend a piece of metal.
If it is something you purchased, where?
If is something you bent, what gauge is it?
Where your rubber plugs go into the baseplate give the tubes a light coating of grease. Between the vibration of towing and the plugs when not a little rust started to show, so I used a little white lithium.
BTW, great job.

 

[BDennis]

NSA also makes a surge tow bar if you don't want to mess with an electric brake controller. You can then use a set of magnetic lights that plug into the motorhome 4 or 7 pin harness hitch connector.
https://nsarvproducts.com/collectio...brake-towed-vehicle-supplemental-brake-system

I have the NSA Ready Brake and it works perfectly.

 

[Linda B]

Linda,

I like your mounting bracket better than mine for the cable. Did you buy it or simply bend a piece of metal.
If it is something you purchased, where?
If is something you bent, what gauge is it?

I used 2 of these https://www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Strong-Tie-A21Z-Angle-Z-Max/1114951 Drilled the ends and riveted them together, then painted it black.

 

[BDennis]

I love $1.90 solutions, thanks.

I used 2 of these https://www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Strong-Tie-A21Z-Angle-Z-Max/1114951 Drilled the ends and riveted them together, then painted it black.

I love $1.90 solutions complete with a link.
Folks this is how help someone.
THANKS

 

[KathyG]

So now the only things left to do are put in the brake light relay and the light on the dash of the RV that shows the brake is on.

I bought the whole NSA towing kit. It includes a LED to put in the dash of the RV with 2 wire run for the toad and the RV, with a separate 2 wire umbilical. I'm going to use their LED, but I have a 6-pin plug that has the blue wire unused so I'm using that to run the signal to the LED. There is the blue wire and a ground running through the 6-pin connector and umbilical, so I don't see a need to add another 2 wires.

The brake light relay is needed because this braking system pulls the brake pedal which sends a signal to the tail lights, plus the RV is sending signals to those lights. This causes the Mav signal to override the RV blinker signal. So the Mav won't show brake lights and blink at the same time. The relay interrupts the Mav's brake signal so it will brake and blink at the same time.

NSA's relay is set up as normally closed, so it doesn't do anything until it is powered, then it will open and interrupt the brake signal. They want it powered with a 12v outlet. That won't work on the Mav because the 12v shuts off with the engine. I looked at Roadmaster's relay and theirs is set up as normally open and they power it by tapping into an ignition on fuse, which allows the Mav to do its thing when the ignition is on. Since 4-down towing is done with the ignition off, Roadmaster's version will be my way to go.

I almost did the connections yesterday. I figured out how to get more space to be able to find the brake signal switch. Following this I removed the lower covering on the steering wheel, which doesn't give a lot of space, but makes it so I don't have to be a contortionist to get to the brake signal switch. Following Roadmaster and etrailer's wisdom and my circuit tester, I found the purple/white wires on the right side are the ones I want to tap into. Then I went to remove the brake signal fuse because I don't want to be tapping into those signal wires and mess up some computer thing with hot wires. The owners manual says the fuse is #23 in the engine bay. The way to get into that fuse box is very strange. Have to remove the lid, then manual says to open two levers, pull the covers off, then pull the whole fuse box off and turn it upside down and the fuses will be there. I tried the levers and the Mav started talking to me with its ET clicks and I decided it was not the day to do this job. More research is needed. So again, I put my Mav back together to be worked on another day.

I struck out on Mav engine fuse box, but found info on 2020 Escape hybrid fuse box. This shows how to get into it. The Mav owners manual seems to be lacking.

I've attached a picture of the brake signal switch with the bottom steering wheel cowling removed. It's that light blue thing. The pin on the right has 2 purple/white wires going into it. They show 12v when the brake pedal is pressed. That is the one I'm going to tap into.

Thanks for the great write up, photos and links Linda. This is helping me a lot as I start outfitting my 23 XLT Lux for flat towing. I will be installing the Demco StaynPlay Duo braking and the Blue Ox baseplate. I previously set up a 2006 Honda CRV with Roadmaster baseplate and Invisibrake, and that worked well for me. Decided to go for the better proportional braking of Demco braking and the Blue Ox baseplate d/t active shutters. We'll see how it goes... Your posts are incredibly helpful - Thank you again!!

 

[realshelby]

.This is helping me a lot as I start outfitting my 23 XLT Lux for flat towing. I will be installing the Demco StaynPlay Duo braking and the Blue Ox baseplate.

Best to check your tow bar clearance in a sharp turn ( like pulling out of a gas pump or tight parking area) where it swivels left to right. That Blue Ox base plate has a 41" on center mounting point which is MUCH wider than standard. Neither my Blue Ox Alpha nor the new Ready Brake Elite II towbar will work as they come with that baseplate! Blue Ox knows this, but does not state anywhere that it takes a certain towbar to work with that baseplate. They offered one to me that has 2" longer legs, but I am not sure even that is enough. So, in a sharp turn, get out and look at the swivel point. Mine was so bound up it was twisting on the base plate mounts!

 

[KathyG]

Best to check your tow bar clearance in a sharp turn ( like pulling out of a gas pump or tight parking area) where it swivels left to right. That Blue Ox base plate has a 41" on center mounting point which is MUCH wider than standard. Neither my Blue Ox Alpha nor the new Ready Brake Elite II towbar will work as they come with that baseplate! Blue Ox knows this, but does not state anywhere that it takes a certain towbar to work with that baseplate. They offered one to me that has 2" longer legs, but I am not sure even that is enough. So, in a sharp turn, get out and look at the swivel point. Mine was so bound up it was twisting on the base plate mounts!

Thank you for the heads up - I read your comments (and others) on the Blue Ox baseplate late last night and decided to wait for Demco baseplate - which (lucky for me) is now available. We do a lot of State Park/Forest Service/BLM campgrounds on secondary routes - so it seems prudent to have more flexibilty in our tow set up. RM Falcon tow bar and baseplate on our old CRV was very forgiving and easy to deal with. I would like the Mav to tow like that!!!

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