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Dad

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Front bumper must be pulled off.
Maybe not. Here's my dilemma. While I know there's a vendor that makes a fog light bracket for the Tremor, I have no idea if the Lariat hybrid has the same configuration for mounting holes. I don't want to go down the rabbit hold of pulling off the bumper only to discover there's no way to attach a bracket. I think I found an alternative, but haven't fully tested it. I'll have more time this weekend and will post my findings.
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I wouldn't be so apprehensive about pulling the bumper cover off. Hardest part for me was getting the side marker light harness disconnected. Scariest part was popping the grille trim around the turn signals. It's probably easier with a second set of hands, but I did it myself just fine.
 

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I wouldn't be so apprehensive about pulling the bumper cover off. Hardest part for me was getting the side marker light harness disconnected. Scariest part was popping the grille trim around the turn signals. It's probably easier with a second set of hands, but I did it myself just fine.
I added the @MABETT wheel fender flares, so pulling the front bumper off it's not an option for me 😆
 

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Dad

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Thanks to @Darthie for posting his retro fog/driving lights. (Apologies for not crediting you previously) You inspired me!
After MUCH trial and error, I was finally able to install same lights on my Lariat. I was able to create an attachment to the grille grid without having to pull the bumper off. I did need to loosen the grille away from the engine bay in order to run my wires.

The Lariat's grille is surprisingly sturdy, but I reinforced the slots using metal braces in the openings. On checking the grille construct of the XL and XLT, I would say they are not sturdy enough to support these lights. The lights are attached to the grille using heavy duty "L" brackets and carriage bolts. All fasteners are stainless steel.

If you're interested, I will post more details including how to loosen the grille away from the body, what brackets I used and where to buy. Fasteners were purchased at Ace Hardware because those folks believe in customer service.
Ford Maverick Tremor bad azz front end and opinion. IMG_6336


Ford Maverick Tremor bad azz front end and opinion. IMG_6335
 
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Darthie

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Looks good man. A++
 

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Looks good man. A++
Thank you. Apparently I got mixed up on who the OP was for this modification. I have since corrected my post. Thanks again.
 

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Looks good man. A++
Question regarding the switch you purchased (I followed suit).
The switch that was included with the light harness has 3 terminals and 3 wires (black, blue, white), while the switch we purchased has 4. The directions included with the 4 terminal switch are a masterpiece of confusion. I'm hoping you can educate me on how you connected the new switch.
 
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Question regarding the switch you purchased (I followed suit).
The switch that was included with the light harness has 3 terminals and 3 wires (black, blue, white), while the switch we purchased has 4. The directions included with the 4 terminal switch are a masterpiece of confusion. I'm hoping you can educate me on how you connected the new switch.
I don’t remember how it ended up. I connected with alligator clips until it worked. I would have taken a picture
 

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I don’t remember how it ended up. I connected with alligator clips until it worked. I would have taken a picture
Yeah, that was my plan "B".
 
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Remember the 3 amber lights in the grill actually MEAN something.
 

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School me

Truck width lights (clearance/marker lights) are mandatory for vehicles over 80 inches wide to indicate size and height in low visibility, per DOT/FMVSS regulations. They require amber lights at the front and red at the rear, typically mounted at the highest and widest points. Key types include cab roof lights and side markers.

Key Requirements and Regulations
  • When Required: Trucks, trailers, and commercial vehicles exceeding 80 inches in width, or 30 feet in length, require specific clearance lighting.
  • Colors: Front clearance lights must be amber; rear clearance lights must be red.
  • Placement: Lights should be mounted on the extreme widest and highest points to accurately show the vehicle's dimensions.
  • Identification (ID) Lights: A set of three, 6–12 inches apart, centered at the top of the front (amber) and rear (red) is required for many large trucks and trailers.
  • Side Markers: Intermediate side marker lights (amber/red) are required on vehicles over 30 feet to show their length, often with a minimum height of 15 inches.
 

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Truck width lights (clearance/marker lights) are mandatory for vehicles over 80 inches wide to indicate size and height in low visibility, per DOT/FMVSS regulations. They require amber lights at the front and red at the rear, typically mounted at the highest and widest points. Key types include cab roof lights and side markers.

Key Requirements and Regulations
  • When Required: Trucks, trailers, and commercial vehicles exceeding 80 inches in width, or 30 feet in length, require specific clearance lighting.
  • Colors: Front clearance lights must be amber; rear clearance lights must be red.
  • Placement: Lights should be mounted on the extreme widest and highest points to accurately show the vehicle's dimensions.
  • Identification (ID) Lights: A set of three, 6–12 inches apart, centered at the top of the front (amber) and rear (red) is required for many large trucks and trailers.
  • Side Markers: Intermediate side marker lights (amber/red) are required on vehicles over 30 feet to show their length, often with a minimum height of 15 inches.
Thanks for the comprehensive information. I'm not sure how this relates to the original post regarding the old school look fog/driving lamps, but perhaps I'm missing something. I know the F-150 Tremor has the 3 amber grille lights, but that doesn't seem to correspond to the requirements and regulations you gave since they are not at the widest or tallest part of the truck, and every Maverick has lighted side markers.
 

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Bro I love the pushbutton! Looks clean. This is the reason why I didn't go with fog lights from diodedynamics; the button was stick on and didn't look stock.
I agree. The good thing is you can swap out DD's switch for one the OP used.
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