Battery Saver 24 hybrid

[Prickly Pear]

Yes many of us have had this problem. Do a search and read all the threads. There are real fixes for some that work. Personally, I wouldn't keep the battery going by charging it, unless you want to continue until you sell and or the warranty runs out.

It's a catch-22. Taking my truck to a dealer for a new battery without a software fix is not a permanent solution, so I'd rather not waste my time. Keeping the stock battery charged up keeps my truck out of the hands of the dealer and me out of the waiting room. I'll keep topping mine off till it gets close enough to the warranty then I"ll have them throw in a new one (if they decide mine is bad enough) In the mean time I'll hold out for the long awaited software update that cures the problem.

PS - Costco has the 5 amp battery tender on sale right now for ~ $39.

Sponsored

 

[finn]

My 24 sat in the garage for six months. Started fine at the three month, but at six months was dead at 2.0 volts.

Since the truck was only 15 months old, the battery was still under warranty.

Dealer sent a mobile service van out with a new battery, did the diagnostics and resets, all at no charge.

Been ok for six weeks now…we’ll see what happens.

i was under the impression the original battery was an AGM. I know I looked at it and I’m pretty sure it was, as there’s no external venting and the battery is in the passenger compartment, under the seat.

 

[Exranger]

Mine goes to sleep occasionally, sends me a message…I’m asleep, please drive me!
I put a tender one amp on it overnight then start it for five minutes and good to go. Definitely some phantom drain or something excessive pulling. AGM battery and ecoboost. 23 model year, drive very little. 6500 miles in three years. Garage kept.

Daughters 2017 escape ecoboost never has any issues and she leaves it for weeks at a time under a carport…

 

[Deleted member 44642]

Mine goes to sleep occasionally, sends me a message…I’m asleep, please drive me!
I put a tender one amp on it overnight then start it for five minutes and good to go. Definitely some phantom drain or something excessive pulling. AGM battery and ecoboost. 23 model year, drive very little. 6500 miles in three years. Garage kept.

Daughters 2017 escape ecoboost never has any issues and she leaves it for weeks at a time under a carport…

The EcoBoost isn’t an issue and not the subject of the thread.

 

[HeyBales]

Since Im new to this whole hybrid scene and everybody is throwing out all these abbreviations I have no idea as what most of them mean. Is there a place where I can see a list of them and what they mean? Thanks

Fortunately I figured that - and exactly why I used the abbreviations - you don't need to know.
And not even hybrid specific related anyway.

AGM will be printed on the battery, when you do a multi-meter check as recommended.

ACCM will be on the work order - if done. They aren't going to spell it out either.

12VB - 12V Battery that you were talking about.

As opposed to the HVB (High Voltage Battery) you'll be reading more about, and is hybrid related.
But not related to this thread.

 

[HeyBales]

My 24 sat in the garage for six months. Started fine at the three month, but at six months was dead at 2.0 volts.

Since the truck was only 15 months old, the battery was still under warranty.

Dealer sent a mobile service van out with a new battery, did the diagnostics and resets, all at no charge.

Been ok for six weeks now…we’ll see what happens.

i was under the impression the original battery was an AGM. I know I looked at it and I’m pretty sure it was, as there’s no external venting and the battery is in the passenger compartment, under the seat.

No it wasn't AGM - but it may indeed be now on the warranty replacement.

FLA - or more correctly - Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) - works just fine with that same emergency venting the AGM gets.
None of them vent - they are considered sealed - unless they overcharge and blow a valve - that's where the vent tube comes in.

 

[johnDeere]

24 Mav started showing "Battery Saver" mode on the Ford app. Started off only happening once in a while. After about two weeks it popped up every morning and sometimes during the day. Went to dealership where they had it almost a full day and diagnosed it as a bad battery. Its been almost a month now and this morning when I went to use the remote start, "battery saver" was showing again.
Anybody have the same problem and if so, what did you do to resolve the problem?

I guess the big question is how long, (in time) do you have the truck in "ready" mode, (Key turned on to run).
You need to have the truck in "ready" mode for at least 20 minutes, to break even with current going out to current going in. (discharging to charging).
Mine charges at 15V most of the time.
Well that's what I see on my 23 mav hybrid, with car scanner showing SOC. (state of charge for 12v battery).
Now that's if everything is working correctly.
Just make sure the battery is fully charged, its best to check the voltage with a volt meter after a hour resting time while disconnected from truck or charger)
Compare it to the cheat sheet for the type of battery, (flooded, AGM, for SOC percentage to battery voltage.
Some chargers may not fully charge the battery to full.

 

[HeyBales]

I guess the big question is how long, (in time) do you have the truck in "ready" mode, (Key turned on to run).
You need to have the truck in "ready" mode for at least 20 minutes, to break even with current going out to current going in. (discharging to charging).
Mine charges at 15V most of the time.
Well that's what I see on my 23 mav hybrid, with car scanner showing SOC. (state of charge for 12v battery).
Now that's if everything is working correctly.
Just make sure the battery is fully charged, its best to check the voltage with a volt meter after a hour resting time while disconnected from truck or charger)
Compare it to the cheat sheet for the type of battery, (flooded, AGM, for SOC percentage to battery voltage.
Some chargers may not fully charge the battery to full.

Or at least take so long as to likely not be possible on a driven vehicle.

I got the Noco 2A, even though I had a 10A charger(due to not rereading the manual since so old (me or charger!) I didn't realize it already had a desulf / repair routine), and had to look at downloaded full Noco manual to see it only claimed to be a 40 Ah charger, for the hours of time stated.
Even the OEM small FLA was 45Ah - and indeed after all night it didn't seem to go to the pulsing green repair mode after a full charge was done. So I assume not a full charge, yet.
I did see that pulsing on the Rav4 bigger battery after several days - so it eventually gets there.

So now I have a 10A charger, and 2A (hoping with a better repair process or I wasted money), and abouts a 5A charger with the truck BMS (which seems like low Ah too considering it's charging level).

I will say to 20 min being a break even, perhaps that's the difference with having an AGM.
Still on FLA, I have minimum 10 min drive five days a week to work, 15 min if I take city, 15-30 min driving after work, and easy hour on 1 weekend day, 30 min but usually more on other day.
And a trip to NY and back in the following data - where it did eventually get to full charge, twice!
The update to this pic is at 180 days I can't find, and it again rolled over to 1 extra Ah of discharge total compared to charging total, and the charging still hasn't caught up. Though the BMS seems inspired now to up the Amps to 3-5 for longer than normal, to attempt to get to 60% Ford SOC scale, actually it's hovering around 60% now as a goal it seems.
So all that time spent charging daily, according to the BMS system's own stats - still lead to more discharge than charging current, and a morning resting voltage of 11.8V measured.

ETA - found the 180 day old pic when it flipped to higher discharge total than charge.

 

[johnDeere]

Or at least take so long as to likely not be possible on a driven vehicle.

I got the Noco 2A, even though I had a 10A charger(due to not rereading the manual since so old (me or charger!) I didn't realize it already had a desulf / repair routine), and had to look at downloaded full Noco manual to see it only claimed to be a 40 Ah charger, for the hours of time stated.
Even the OEM small FLA was 45Ah - and indeed after all night it didn't seem to go to the pulsing green repair mode after a full charge was done. So I assume not a full charge, yet.
I did see that pulsing on the Rav4 bigger battery after several days - so it eventually gets there.

So now I have a 10A charger, and 2A (hoping with a better repair process or I wasted money), and abouts a 5A charger with the truck BMS (which seems like low Ah too considering it's charging level).

I will say to 20 min being a break even, perhaps that's the difference with having an AGM.
Still on FLA, I have minimum 10 min drive five days a week to work, 15 min if I take city, 15-30 min driving after work, and easy hour on 1 weekend day, 30 min but usually more on other day.
And a trip to NY and back in the following data - where it did eventually get to full charge, twice!
The update to this pic is at 150 days I can't find, and it again rolled over to 1 extra Ah of discharge total compared to charging total, and the charging still hasn't caught up. Though the BMS seems inspired now to up the Amps to 3-5 for longer than normal, to attempt to get to 65% Ford SOC scale, actually it's hovering around 60% now as a goal it seems.
So all that time spent charging daily, according to the BMS system's own stats - still lead to more discharge than charging current, and a morning resting voltage of 11.8V measured.

You would think after driving for that amount of time that the battery would have a higher SOC?
What is you charging voltage? is in the range of 15V?
I see your pic, with 14.9 v and 2 amp you would think the SOC would be higher?
I see in your pic, power going in and power going out, so far you have not broke even yet.
Did you have the ACCM update done, or other updates to find current draws when the key is off?
How long does it take your truck to drop to zero amps after you turn it off?
When does it change to floating charge? voltage and SOC?
My charging voltage is 15V and SOC after driving for a hour has gone as high as 90%
SOC in the computer with forscan has been set to 98%.
So never have I seen it change to floating charge.
23 mav hybrid 20K miles, testing a 12 flooded deep cycle battery.

I know people will say, do not use a deep cycle in a auto, but the only difference between a flooded lead acid battery and deep cycle flooded acid is the plate construction.
Flooded lead acid are made with sponge lead and deep cycle is made with sheet lead.
Sponge lead has more surface area so electrons can flow out to run a starter.

 

[HeyBales]

You would think after driving for that amount of time that the battery would have a higher SOC?
What is you charging voltage? is in the range of 15V?
I see your pic, with 14.9 v and 2 amp you would think the SOC would be higher?
I see in your pic, power going in and power going out, so far you have not broke even yet.
Did you have the ACCM update done, or other updates to find current draws when the key is off?
How long does it take your truck to drop to zero amps after you turn it off?
When does it change to floating charge? voltage and SOC?
My charging voltage is 15V and SOC after driving for a hour has gone as high as 90%
SOC in the computer with forscan has been set to 98%.
So never have I seen it change to floating charge.
23 mav hybrid 20K miles, testing a 12 flooded deep cycle battery.

I know people will say, do not use a deep cycle in a auto, but the only difference between a flooded lead acid battery and deep cycle flooded acid is the plate construction.
Flooded lead acid are made with sponge lead and deep cycle is made with sheet lead.
Sponge lead has more surface area so electrons can flow out to run a starter.

For what the hybrid actually needs to start - deep cycle sounds like a good idea.

Compared to normal systems - the correlation between V and A is not really tied that closely together.
Neither is the correlation between Ford's SOC scale (85% is max charge BTW) and resting V.
I've seen from 55-65% at the same 11.8 V.

I think the best chance of consistency is right after a BMS Relearn has occurred, which I've noticed on my always locked outside for 10 hr truck - doesn't happen every night, but can't figure out how frequent. (did the resting V or SOC% take a nose dive due to cold, or testing, or did the resting V stay and SOC% went up - ha!).

Otherwise generalities can only be made - over 15 V is usually higher charging Amp to that circuit. Constant Current charge level?
Except this time, (which is about 30 days after new battery, already losing SOC%):

Below 15V is into topping charge - as shown in prior post picture.
14.9 V and 2A current. Usually by 10 min I'm down to below 1A floating charge, same upper 14V.
That's why 10-15 min drive should be just fine for all I'm going to get.

You'll notice the QST Current PID - that's from the prior sleep mode tracked by the Cumm SLP PID - 28 mA avg in that example, pretty good actually, for 25-50 mA being expected. I think that reading will be the clue as to when Relearn occurs. Sometimes I'm higher.

In those BMS Cumulative readings you noted - I'm actually matching for 15 Ah except for rounding error not shown - the picture at 180 days was 1 Ah higher on discharge than charge (gotta total both discharge readings 12+3). Found picture - updated post above.

At that point of discharge higher than charge - I noted on my 10-15 min drive to work, it was actually still at 2A on parking, compared to normal bouncing between 0 & 1A reading.
And it seemed to want to get to 60% (at 5A & 15V). And on some longer drives that was obtained.
I'm pretty sure the BMS Relearn is showing some battery resistance problems - so it probably figures battery going bad - don't attempt a high charge, or it'll ruin what's left.
Need to get out my tester and see if that's the case.

No ACCM update yet - I'll get it when I get the new warranty battery (or an alignment) - which you can tell I know will happen!
OBD port data is shutdown pretty soon along with power ports on key to Acc - immediately on door open actually. The adapter still gets power for a few minutes, but maybe just enough to shine the green LED on it, but not enough to power it.
So there is no data in Key Off.

I do want to get battery hookup ready to go to bring my multimeter in-line - I'm very curious on that high discharge total for key off, but not the sleep mode entered yet.
My meter's Amp-clamp isn't that accurate at low mA readings I think - it shows below 1A very quickly after truck turn-off, but I don't sit there long enough to watch as relays go on/off for upwards of 75 min, probably reading higher for moments.

Oh - rest of the story for that little snippet - 6 min drive.
Temps on coolant showed is was cold start 80F, not doing errands. (which BMS knows and starts the charging Amps about where it left off)
Doing much better when only 30 days old and more likely because warm out - but not good enough - or I wouldn't be at 60%!

Charging Amps does reduce on colder days of course - why we all have more problems in the winter if we don't drive long enough to warm the battery sensor up.
Still haven't found the PID showing the sensor 12VB temp - gotta be there somewhere!

Oh - pics from 1 day old new warranty FLA battery (charging 12.8V while driving, it had been at 85%), and 6 days old after just started (it thinks more charge than discharge - ah!).
That 80% SOC value, is when the logs show it drops to float charge below 1A. So with 85% being max, and 98% probably an invalid figure, I'd suggest 84% setting.

 

[johnDeere]

For what the hybrid actually needs to start - deep cycle sounds like a good idea.

Compared to normal systems - the correlation between V and A is not really tied that closely together.
Neither is the correlation between Ford's SOC scale (85% is max charge BTW) and resting V.
I've seen from 55-65% at the same 11.8 V.

I think the best chance of consistency is right after a BMS Relearn has occurred, which I've noticed on my always locked outside for 10 hr truck - doesn't happen every night, but can't figure out how frequent. (did the resting V or SOC% take a nose dive due to cold, or testing, or did the resting V stay and SOC% went up - ha!).

Otherwise generalities can only be made - over 15 V is usually higher charging Amp to that circuit. Constant Current charge level?
Except this time, (which is about 30 days after new battery, already losing SOC%):

Below 15V is into topping charge - as shown in prior post picture.
14.9 V and 2A current. Usually by 10 min I'm down to below 1A floating charge, same upper 14V.
That's why 10-15 min drive should be just fine for all I'm going to get.

You'll notice the QST Current PID - that's from the prior sleep mode tracked by the Cumm SLP PID - 28 mA avg in that example, pretty good actually, for 25-50 mA being expected. I think that reading will be the clue as to when Relearn occurs. Sometimes I'm higher.

In those BMS Cumulative readings you noted - I'm actually matching for 15 Ah except for rounding error not shown - the picture at 180 days was 1 Ah higher on discharge than charge (gotta total both discharge readings 12+3). Found picture - updated post above.

At that point of discharge higher than charge - I noted on my 10-15 min drive to work, it was actually still at 2A on parking, compared to normal bouncing between 0 & 1A reading.
And it seemed to want to get to 60% (at 5A & 15V). And on some longer drives that was obtained.
I'm pretty sure the BMS Relearn is showing some battery resistance problems - so it probably figures battery going bad - don't attempt a high charge, or it'll ruin what's left.
Need to get out my tester and see if that's the case.

No ACCM update yet - I'll get it when I get the new warranty battery (or an alignment) - which you can tell I know will happen!
OBD port data is shutdown pretty soon along with power ports on key to Acc - immediately on door open actually. The adapter still gets power for a few minutes, but maybe just enough to shine the green LED on it, but not enough to power it.
So there is no data in Key Off.

I do want to get battery hookup ready to go to bring my multimeter in-line - I'm very curious on that high discharge total for key off, but not the sleep mode entered yet.
My meter's Amp-clamp isn't that accurate at low mA readings I think - it shows below 1A very quickly after truck turn-off, but I don't sit there long enough to watch as relays go on/off for upwards of 75 min, probably reading higher for moments.

Oh - rest of the story for that little snippet - 6 min drive.
Temps on coolant showed is was cold start 80F, not doing errands. (which BMS knows and starts the charging Amps about where it left off)
Doing much better when only 30 days old and more likely because warm out - but not good enough - or I wouldn't be at 60%!

Charging Amps does reduce on colder days of course - why we all have more problems in the winter if we don't drive long enough to warm the battery sensor up.
Still haven't found the PID showing the sensor 12VB temp - gotta be there somewhere!

Oh - pics from 1 day old new warranty FLA battery (charging 12.8V while driving, it had been at 85%), and 6 days old after just started (it thinks more charge than discharge - ah!).
That 80% SOC value, is when the logs show it drops to float charge below 1A. So with 85% being max, and 98% probably an invalid figure, I'd suggest 84% setting.

Great info.
Thank you for the input.

For what the hybrid actually needs to start - deep cycle sounds like a good idea.

Compared to normal systems - the correlation between V and A is not really tied that closely together.
Neither is the correlation between Ford's SOC scale (85% is max charge BTW) and resting V.
I've seen from 55-65% at the same 11.8 V.

I think the best chance of consistency is right after a BMS Relearn has occurred, which I've noticed on my always locked outside for 10 hr truck - doesn't happen every night, but can't figure out how frequent. (did the resting V or SOC% take a nose dive due to cold, or testing, or did the resting V stay and SOC% went up - ha!).

Otherwise generalities can only be made - over 15 V is usually higher charging Amp to that circuit. Constant Current charge level?
Except this time, (which is about 30 days after new battery, already losing SOC%):

Below 15V is into topping charge - as shown in prior post picture.
14.9 V and 2A current. Usually by 10 min I'm down to below 1A floating charge, same upper 14V.
That's why 10-15 min drive should be just fine for all I'm going to get.

You'll notice the QST Current PID - that's from the prior sleep mode tracked by the Cumm SLP PID - 28 mA avg in that example, pretty good actually, for 25-50 mA being expected. I think that reading will be the clue as to when Relearn occurs. Sometimes I'm higher.

In those BMS Cumulative readings you noted - I'm actually matching for 15 Ah except for rounding error not shown - the picture at 180 days was 1 Ah higher on discharge than charge (gotta total both discharge readings 12+3). Found picture - updated post above.

At that point of discharge higher than charge - I noted on my 10-15 min drive to work, it was actually still at 2A on parking, compared to normal bouncing between 0 & 1A reading.
And it seemed to want to get to 60% (at 5A & 15V). And on some longer drives that was obtained.
I'm pretty sure the BMS Relearn is showing some battery resistance problems - so it probably figures battery going bad - don't attempt a high charge, or it'll ruin what's left.
Need to get out my tester and see if that's the case.

No ACCM update yet - I'll get it when I get the new warranty battery (or an alignment) - which you can tell I know will happen!
OBD port data is shutdown pretty soon along with power ports on key to Acc - immediately on door open actually. The adapter still gets power for a few minutes, but maybe just enough to shine the green LED on it, but not enough to power it.
So there is no data in Key Off.

I do want to get battery hookup ready to go to bring my multimeter in-line - I'm very curious on that high discharge total for key off, but not the sleep mode entered yet.
My meter's Amp-clamp isn't that accurate at low mA readings I think - it shows below 1A very quickly after truck turn-off, but I don't sit there long enough to watch as relays go on/off for upwards of 75 min, probably reading higher for moments.

Oh - rest of the story for that little snippet - 6 min drive.
Temps on coolant showed is was cold start 80F, not doing errands. (which BMS knows and starts the charging Amps about where it left off)
Doing much better when only 30 days old and more likely because warm out - but not good enough - or I wouldn't be at 60%!

Charging Amps does reduce on colder days of course - why we all have more problems in the winter if we don't drive long enough to warm the battery sensor up.
Still haven't found the PID showing the sensor 12VB temp - gotta be there somewhere!

Oh - pics from 1 day old new warranty FLA battery (charging 12.8V while driving, it had been at 85%), and 6 days old after just started (it thinks more charge than discharge - ah!).
That 80% SOC value, is when the logs show it drops to float charge below 1A. So with 85% being max, and 98% probably an invalid figure, I'd suggest 84% setting.

Great info.
Thank you for your input, looks like you gather quite a bit of data.
Most of my data if from reading off the OBD2 port from my “car scanner” app.
And a direct hook up to the battery.

And reading the data the unit gives to me. This unit is Bluetooth so I have to be close to see this info.

The SOC on my remote unit can’t be used since it not calibrated to the battery.
The two pictures are when the key is off.

I mostly use volts and amps.
As for SOC from the truck, shown in car scanner” it’s really hard to say how and when they gather there info to come up with SOC.
hopefully they gather info for SOC when all the draws have stopped.
Since my battery is a flooded deep cycle with removable caps, the resting voltage will be different than flooded lead acid and AGM.

 

[HeyBales]

Great info.
Thank you for the input.


Great info.
Thank you for your input, looks like you gather quite a bit of data.
Most of my data if from reading off the OBD2 port from my “car scanner” app.
And a direct hook up to the battery.

And reading the data the unit gives to me. This unit is Bluetooth so I have to be close to see this info.

The SOC on my remote unit can’t be used since it not calibrated to the battery.
The two pictures are when the key is off.

I mostly use volts and amps.
As for SOC from the truck, shown in car scanner” it’s really hard to say how and when they gather there info to come up with SOC.
hopefully they gather info for SOC when all the draws have stopped.
Since my battery is a flooded deep cycle with removable caps, the resting voltage will be different than flooded lead acid and AGM.

Now that is some Amp hours!

So you can see the hourly blips thru the night for the modem sending some data to keep the wireless connection active? If you left it enabled, but I don't really see that.
Can the monitor store a little data for review later - or gotta have phone close enough to receive it?

Even resistance given on that one, useful.
I had another one I was thinking of getting - but no resistance figure, and not inline, so no Amps either, or Ah or such.
Since Volts was only reading, I just go by powerport adapter. But no history, and that turns off quickly at this point.
I keep confirming from time to time it's only reading 0.1 high at lower V, and trying to recall what yesterdays was.
Then I tried to confirm the reading matches between direct battery measurement, scanner PID, and now a couple multimeters since I see disagreement, between them all!

I think you've inspired me since it's strangely warm out still - at least get some amp-clamp readings for more than a minute after I shut the door. Got my back of envelope ready!

 

[johnDeere]

Thank you for the post.
Just a couple things to note.
They say a shunt style unit is better that Hall effect for low current.
That unit I have is Bluetooth.
They do make a WIFI unit.
The data is stored on the unit, and you just have to download load it from the unit to your iPhone.
You can only download 12hr of data at a time.
And you can pick start time and end time to download.
You can just it as a graph, or in table form.
It’s nice I can see what the voltage and current is by looking in the truck window, or launch the app on my iPhone.
The voltage is the same as what I see from “car scanner”, the current is off by .01 amps, so not a big deal.
It’s very interesting watching the current draw when you turn off the truck.

 

[HeyBales]

Thank you for the post.
Just a couple things to note.
They say a shunt style unit is better that Hall effect for low current.
That unit I have is Bluetooth.
They do make a WIFI unit.
The data is stored on the unit, and you just have to download load it from the unit to your iPhone.
You can only download 12hr of data at a time.
And you can pick start time and end time to download.
You can just it as a graph, or in table form.
It’s nice I can see what the voltage and current is by looking in the truck window, or launch the app on my iPhone.
The voltage is the same as what I see from “car scanner”, the current is off by .01 amps, so not a big deal.
It’s very interesting watching the current draw when you turn off the truck.

That is nice - your own start to a parasitic draw test if needed, or what is the sleeping Amps to confirm correct level.

So did my test enjoying a beautiful sunset, trying not to twist my back too much every time I turned around to attach the clamp for new reading.

Opened door, got in, no key turn or inserted, closed door and remote locked. (forgot about that at end with security)
Hoping that helped with reaching sleep mode sooner since not started - nope.
After each reading, removed the clamp to read the value. Zeroed out 5 sec before reclamp and new reading.
Battery at 12.06V measured at posts. 4.37A after getting in before locking.
Min - Amps
1 4.03
2 1.59
3 0.51
4 0.43
5 0.53
10 1.07
unplugged my OBD adapter still showing green LED - has 2 mA draw in this state, but still.
also heard some relays click during this wait.
15 0.44
20 0.36
25 0.38
30 0.33

Never reached milliAmp stage with sleep mode. Bummer. But I already know what those readings are the next day - just curious how long. Just surprised with no Start, it didn't drop back to it rather quickly.

So opened door to have cabin lights on for a reading (and alarm almost went off) - 10.73 A
Closed door, key to Accessory mode - radio/hvac/lights off - 5.15 A
Key to On but not Start, headlights on - 15.57 A

Not sure I want to test after a drive - maybe for 10 min. Still warm tomorrow. Uhhh.

 

[johnDeere]

Thank you for the post.
I think you will be happier with a unit that can record voltage and amperage.
Just a note, I have a usb to Bluetooth and a OBD2 Bluetooth adapter and a “wonton” battery monitor plugged in all the time.
The usb to Bluetooth and OBD2 unit should shut off after the truck turns off.
I just checked the data file for my wonton unit, and it records data every second for the data file.

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