Accessing Fuses Under the Hood - 2025 Maverick

[Abe]

I am trying to access fuse #37 on my 2025 Maverick but cannot seem to get the connectors to release even after pulling up the lever.
Is there a trick to this or do you just have to pull with lots of force. I don't want to break a clip somewhere.

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[Chops]

I have not tried to open it. But I am curious about your 1975 Maverick XLT. Any pics of it? Or is that a typo?

The Grabber not XLT

 

[Chops]

I am trying to access fuse #37 on my 2025 Maverick but cannot seem to get the connectors to release even after pulling up the lever.
Is there a trick to this or do you just have to pull with lots of force. I don't want to break a clip somewhere.

Sorry, but I still haven’t figured out how to access my inside fuse box to remove fuse 11. Maybe we’ll need fuse pullers of some sort?

 

[HeyBales]

That's a good point - IIRC Ford was too cheap to include those plastic pullers attached to the lids in either location.

Sorry Abe, I removed my hybrid under hood box - but probably different than yours.
No excessive force I recall.

Maybe it's more similar than I think.

ACCESSING THE UNDER HOOD FUSE BOX

1. Pull the latch toward you and remove the top cover.

1. Pull the connector lever upward.

1. Pull the connector upward to remove it.

1. Pull both latches toward you and remove the fuse box.

1. Turn the fuse box over and open the lid.

 

[Phimosis]

That's a good point - IIRC Ford was too cheap to include those plastic pullers attached to the lids in either location.

Sorry Abe, I removed my hybrid under hood box - but probably different than yours.
No excessive force I recall.

Maybe it's more similar than I think.

ACCESSING THE UNDER HOOD FUSE BOX

1. Pull the latch toward you and remove the top cover.

1. Pull the connector lever upward.
2. Pull the connector upward to remove it.

1. Pull both latches toward you and remove the fuse box.
2. Turn the fuse box over and open the lid.

ecoboost has same fuse box, same mechanism.

@Abe if you’re still uncomfortable, with this, there’s a few videos on YouTube that show all the steps up close. You might be forgetting a step, that would be obvious when watching it on video. That last step does take a bit of force, like 20 lbs, to separate the rubber gasket and then lift the fuse box with all the fuses in it, because that is about a 10 lb lift after breaking it loose.

 

[Abe]

That's a good point - IIRC Ford was too cheap to include those plastic pullers attached to the lids in either location.

Sorry Abe, I removed my hybrid under hood box - but probably different than yours.
No excessive force I recall.

Maybe it's more similar than I think.

ACCESSING THE UNDER HOOD FUSE BOX

1. Pull the latch toward you and remove the top cover.

1. Pull the connector lever upward.
2. Pull the connector upward to remove it.

1. Pull both latches toward you and remove the fuse box.
2. Turn the fuse box over and open the lid.

Thanks for this. I found it online and it was helpful. I was finally able to get them to come up after wiggling them on the sides a bit. They were pretty tight. I removed the box and opened it to inspect fuse #37 which controls my trailer parking lights that for some reason are not working. Turn signals and brakes work but not parking lights. I removed the 20 amp fuse and inspected it. Looked ok so I put it back but lights still not working. I may try replacing it tomorrow. View attachment 226397 View attachment 226398 View attachment 226399 View attachment 226397 View attachment 226398 View attachment 226399 Uh

 

[Carlitos_92]

Thanks for this. I found it online and it was helpful. I was finally able to get them to come up after wiggling them on the sides a bit. They were pretty tight. I removed the box and opened it to inspect fuse #37 which controls my trailer parking lights that for some reason are not working. Turn signals and brakes work but not parking lights. I removed the 20 amp fuse and inspected it. Looked ok so I put it back but lights still not working. I may try replacing it tomorrow. View attachment 226397 View attachment 226398 View attachment 226399 View attachment 226397 View attachment 226398 View attachment 226399 Uh

Check the electrical connector at the back of the hitch receiver. If that’s secure, follow the wires back to the next connection under the bed. There have been reports in the past of trucks being delivered without the factory remembering to finalize all the connections under there.

 

[Abe]

Check the electrical connector at the back of the hitch receiver. If that’s secure, follow the wires back to the next connection under the bed. There have been reports in the past of trucks being delivered without the factory remembering to finalize all the connections under there.

Carlitos_92 - thanks for the comment. I went back to the fuse box and pulled the fuse and inspected it with a better light. Turns out is was blown (at 2500 miles!). I replaced it and lights on trailer are now operational.

 

[Abe]

Men, thanks for the helpful direction / comments. I went back to the fuse box and pulled the fuse and inspected it with a better light. Turns out is was blown (at 2500 miles!). I replaced it and lights on trailer are now operational.

 

[Phimosis]

Men, thanks for the helpful direction / comments. I went back to the fuse box and pulled the fuse and inspected it with a better light. Turns out is was blown (at 2500 miles!). I replaced it and lights on trailer are now operational.

Blown at 2,500 miles….

This is independant of vehicle milage. 20 amps x 12 volts = 240 watts. You have to ask the question. Why was your trailer lighting system pulling more than 240 watts, to result in a blow fuse? Chances are that you had a short circuit. Even the old incandescent type bulbs are 2.1 amps each, so it would take 10+ bulbs to blow the 20 amp fuse.

Maybe it’s time to inspect your trailer’s wiring harness.

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