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Utility trailer recommendations for 23 FWD Hybrid

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Dean S

Dean S

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I love my Karavan ALUMINUM 5.5 X 10' with fold down sides and front $2399 from Tractor Supply
I didn't even find that one in my search, looks like a contender, I would jump on it at that price, $2999 at my local TS. When did you buy? Nice setup, have you towed on the highway much? I'm assuming you have 4k tow on yours.
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I didn't even find that one in my search, looks like a contender, I would jump on it at that price, $2999 at my local TS. When did you buy? Nice setup, have you towed on the highway much? I'm assuming you have 4k tow on yours.
you are correct it was $2999 w/ 12 mos 0% I think they may have 10% off trailers for father's day. No thats only on "Carry-on" trailers. Keep an eye out for sales. I bought at full price because they usually only stock 1. And it was well worth it. Pulls great. A little bouncy when empty but they all are! With aluminum Mag wheels and a drop down roller jack. All LED lights, I added more to top of ramp and the fenders. The Lowes one was 3599 and terrible in comparison.
www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/karavan-55-ft-x-10-ft-aluminum-utility-trailer
 
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you are correct it was $2999 w/ 12 mos 0% I think they may have 10% off trailers for father's day. No thats only on "Carry-on" trailers. Keep an eye out for sales. I bought at full price because they usually only stock 1. And it was well worth it. Pulls great. A little bouncy when empty but they all are! With aluminum Mag wheels and a drop down roller jack. All LED lights, I added more to top of ramp and the fenders. The Lowes one was 3599 and terrible in comparison.
www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/karavan-55-ft-x-10-ft-aluminum-utility-trailer
How easily can you roll this around on relatively flat lawn when empty? Also do you find the factory tie down locations adequate?
 

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I love my Karavan ALUMINUM 5.5 X 10' with fold down sides and front $2399 from Tractor Supply and 12 mos. no %. $600 cheaper than Lowes aluminum with wood deck and no fold down sides. I also added brakes because I commonly load my heavy Kubota SXS with Cab (2370#) with some # capacity to spare! The alum gains about 600# of GVWR (2440#) capacity over the steel. I also added jack stand stabilizers on the 4 corners so I can leave the Kubota on it when unhooked. Tows wonderful! A quality trailer
That's a nice trailer at a nice price, I've been impressed with the build quality on my Karavan, too. The payload difference is only 275lb though, 2165lb. payload on the steel 5.5x9 one, weighs 825lb empty. My 16' steel dual axle car hauler weighs 1450lb. empty by comparison. The Karavan are quite a bit heavier than others for their size, but the build quality is really top notch imo.
 

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Aluminum frame with aluminum deck was my original plan, mainly due to weight since I can only tow 2k. Aside from the additional cost I know people will borrow the trailer and won't be as careful as me, I think steel with wooden deck would be more resilient but could be wrong. An 800lb trailer doesn't leave much tow capacity though. Still considering aluminum though.
You can tow more than 2,000 lbs if your trailer had brakes.

Adding a brake controller (if you hadn't already) is a simple task.

The 2000 lb "stock" rating is for trailers without brakes, and is what I call the "no compromise" number.

If you add brakes; 3000 lbs at 65 MPH and 4000 lbs at 55 mph is safe, sane, and legal on the highways. But may not be "warranted". But take it easy and you'll be ok.

4000 lbs at 55 mph is not harder on the truck than 2000 lbs at 75 mph.

And do you really feel comfortable towing that fast anyway?
 

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I have a Harbor Freight 4x8 that I am happy with. It has hauled a lot of stuff quite a few miles. They make a 5x10 trailer that weighs 400 pounds according to their site that might just fit your specs. Link: https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-...-ft-custom-modular-utility-trailer-59846.html
Hahahaha
I bought and built one of those, I threw the stock axle, wheels and tires in a recycle dumpster.
Went to Redneck Trailer supply and bought proper rolling equipment. That cost $250 plus three decent tires.
Used it for years. The red paint turned to pink in short order, one summer.
But it would stand up in the corner of my two car garage and that’s exactly what I needed.
 

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You can tow more than 2,000 lbs if your trailer had brakes.

Adding a brake controller (if you hadn't already) is a simple task.

The 2000 lb "stock" rating is for trailers without brakes, and is what I call the "no compromise" number.

If you add brakes; 3000 lbs at 65 MPH and 4000 lbs at 55 mph is safe, sane, and legal on the highways. But may not be "warranted". But take it easy and you'll be ok.

4000 lbs at 55 mph is not harder on the truck than 2000 lbs at 75 mph.

And do you really feel comfortable towing that fast anyway?
Yah the HF45 in Euro Kugas gets a 3500lb-ish rating depending on trim and that's pretty much speed limited when towing in Europe, plus they don't have heat and so many gruelling long climbs. So sticking to the double nickel probably gets you a lot more towing without instant transmission problems. Provided of course you've got braked trailer and braked controller.

I saw the quote the other day that Ford engineers "Weren't quite comfortable" validating 4000lb on the HF45, and that would I guess be for all North American conditions (heat) and long climbs, and high speeds, 60 or more. So they built the HF55 with some improvements. So if you apply some limitations and common sense to your towing, you can get the other side of "quite".

Edit: forgot to mention that some of the problem is "too much" regen with more momentum with heavy loads, so you'd be best off using a drive mode with little regen and setting your brake controller "tweaky" so the trailer is braking when you're braking in regen.
 
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Mean Green BP

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How easily can you roll this around on relatively flat lawn when empty? Also do you find the factory tie down locations adequate?
Very easy to move around! As bought, the trailer weighs about 500-550# very light on the tonque and your hands! After I added the spare tire carrier and spare to the front (Alum mount) it was a little tongue heavy for my 70 YO body to move BUT I have a trailer dolly that enables me to move it anywhere I want, Concrete, gravel or lawn. I put larger diameter no-flat wheels on the dolly in place of the normal 2 wheel dolly type. I don't do lawn parking here because even after a light rain the ground is too soft. Factory tie downs are more than adequate but with my 2370# Kubota SxS I added some more. They have a hole already in place about mid-way down each side thru the 2 x 5" beam with a rubber cover over it. I just used those holes for 2 more HD tie-downs. I also added some across the front and the rear dove-tail for ease of strapping down and some small clips for attaching bungees and tarps while parked. I have been extremely satisfied with the build quality of the trailer. If you look on Home Depot website the same trailer is higher priced thru them. But don't try to contact the Karavan trailer factory, if you can find a number or email (not on their website) they don't answer. But that's ok it comes with everything you may need. (Except spare tire!) I love the fold-down sides as my Kubota SxS only leaves about 2 inches on each side. So I drop the sides, Back the Kubota on (Tail end is heavier) and I can maneuver on and off until I get it perfect, And I can get out the door of the enclosed cab!! Then I just raise and lock down the sides, Very good corner locks also. If you want any specific pictures just ask. Also even though the website and the tag on the trailer say it is a 2770# axle, when I was climbing around underneath, I saw a tag on the axle that identified it as a 3500# axle!!!! Standard add-on brake kits will fit. But you need to use the original outer bearings, it's a slightly different axle shaft diameter at that point. You won't be disappointed with the trailer. My son said don't EVER sell it, I told him yea you will inherit it some day. It's quite at home just sitting out without any cover especially with that aluminum deck! I didn't care for the factory coiled cable safety hook-ups, that were too short to reach my other truck, so I added nice HD safety chains. Boy is this a long post! Oh yes, ALL Frame underneath is also aluminum, no steel hiding under there.
Ford Maverick Utility trailer recommendations for 23 FWD Hybrid image000003 (27)
 
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Had a 5x8 steel open trailer built new with 2’ rails and a drop in the slot plywood back panel. It had a 3,000 pound capacity mobile home axle shortened up underneath a frame made of 2” and 3” I beam and angle and channel steel. Shortening it up by more than half nearly tripled its load capacity.

I supplied the tires and wheels. Built for $550 in the early 90’s. Ten years later I rattle canned it, it took some grinding. It had lots of surface rust.
I replace the 2x6 wood floor and put two new tires on it.
It sold at an equipment auction for $650 after all those years because the cost of steel went way up.
Next 5x8 was aluminum. Had that ten years.
Never a problem and obviously no rust.
Paid $650 for it used, it was five years old.
So fifteen years and no issues. It had an aluminum floor so no wood replacement.
My brother gave me $500 for it and took it up to New York State. He junked it three years later. Welds coming apart all over it. Due to the extreme cold ?? Or age ?
It was half the weight of my steel one.
 
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Sounds like overloading too many times!
 
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Yah the HF45 in Euro Kugas gets a 3500lb-ish rating depending on trim and that's pretty much speed limited when towing in Europe, plus they don't have heat and so many gruelling long climbs. So sticking to the double nickel probably gets you a lot more towing without instant transmission problems. Provided of course you've got braked trailer and braked controller.

I saw the quote the other day that Ford engineers "Weren't quite comfortable" validating 4000lb on the HF45, and that would I guess be for all North American conditions (heat) and long climbs, and high speeds, 60 or more. So they built the HF55 with some improvements. So if you apply some limitations and common sense to your towing, you can get the other side of "quite".
So I had to look into this, it appears as though you're correct.

How does one add a brake controller to the FWD maverick though? We only have a 4-pin connector it the back. I wonder if one can retrofit the ecoboost controller into the hybrid for a stock look?

Ford Maverick Utility trailer recommendations for 23 FWD Hybrid 1749495546782-nk
 

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So I had to look into this, it appears as though you're correct.

How does one add a brake controller to the FWD maverick though? We only have a 4-pin connector it the back. I wonder if one can retrofit the ecoboost controller into the hybrid for a stock look?
The easiest way is to buy a kit that converts 4 pin to 7 pin, you relocate the factory 4 pin connector, and tie the new 7 pin kit into that connector (no splicing required) and then it comes with circuit breakers and wire to add the electric brake, 12v aux, and/or reverse light wires which is the only one that needs spliced into the factory wiring, but not needed on most trailers. Then, add the brake controller of your choice, the last one I installed was a Redarc but there are many brands - not sure if you can retrofit the Ford OEM one but that would be interesting.
 

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So I had to look into this, it appears as though you're correct.

How does one add a brake controller to the FWD maverick though? We only have a 4-pin connector it the back. I wonder if one can retrofit the ecoboost controller into the hybrid for a stock look?

1749495546782-nk.webp
Stock brake controller: will be difficult and expensive to add later, and may not work without software update. Hard to DIY and a dealer probably won't.

Buy any off the shelf universal brake controller. Cheap and easy to DIY.

7-pin connector for the back is like $25.
4 wires will plug n play from your existing.

5th wire you'll NEED to run yourself. Brake power from the brake controller you buy. Usually blue wire as industry standard.

6th is optional. Does your trailer have white "reverse" lamps? If no, you can skip this one.

7th wire is 12v constant power to the trailer. Do you want / need 12v constant power to the trailer? If no, you can skip this one too.

So with just one wire run, and a controller, you can have trailer brakes.

The brake controller (usually) has 4 pins / 4 wires.

12v + Always hot (red is conventional)
12v - Chassis ground (black)
Variable output to brakes (blue)
Brake signal wire (white)

Two places (that I know of) that you can connect the white signal wire:

Center high mount brake lamp wire
or
Brake pedal switch above & behind the brake pedal.

I used the high mount brake lamp.
You cannot use the rear brake lamps because the same bulb/wire is used for turn signals.
 

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I recommend you use the high mount third brake lamp. If you mess something up, you messed up a brake lamp, not a brake pedal.

Hope this (and above) helps you out.
Let us know what you do. Photos are always nice.

PS there's already holes from the cabin to the exterior under the battery box. Use a fish tape or wire coat hangar to pull your blue wire or any others. I didn't have to drill a thing.

There are mentions of "wireless" controllers, which is a little misleading.
It saves you that one blue wire. Not a big deal.
 

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Stock brake controller: will be difficult and expensive to add later, and may not work without software update. Hard to DIY and a dealer probably won't.

Buy any off the shelf universal brake controller. Cheap and easy to DIY.

7-pin connector for the back is like $25.
4 wires will plug n play from your existing.

5th wire you'll NEED to run yourself. Brake power from the brake controller you buy. Usually blue wire as industry standard.

6th is optional. Does your trailer have white "reverse" lamps? If no, you can skip this one.

7th wire is 12v constant power to the trailer. Do you want / need 12v constant power to the trailer? If no, you can skip this one too.

So with just one wire run, and a controller, you can have trailer brakes.

The brake controller (usually) has 4 pins / 4 wires.

12v + Always hot (red is conventional)
12v - Chassis ground (black)
Variable output to brakes (blue)
Brake signal wire (white)

Two places (that I know of) that you can connect the white signal wire:

Center high mount brake lamp wire
or
Brake pedal switch above & behind the brake pedal.

I used the high mount brake lamp.
You cannot use the rear brake lamps because the same bulb/wire is used for turn signals.
Thanks this is a good write up. I may repost asking for more info in the future. Adding a 7 pin was something I wanted to do just for versatility and because trailer brakes are just safer to have.
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