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Wind noise

Deeb

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As soon as I received my truck something hadn't been right. When I drive about 50 or so air rushes in. It sounds like it's from both front windows. It's so loud that often people on the phone can't hear me. I've had my truck in the shop for about a total of 8 weeks while they tried to figure it out. They fixed the weather stripping around the car and window but it's still so loud. They can't figure it out and the dealership told me to try another dealership at this point. Please help
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As soon as I received my truck something hadn't been right. When I drive about 50 or so air rushes in. It sounds like it's from both front windows. It's so loud that often people on the phone can't hear me. I've had my truck in the shop for about a total of 8 weeks while they tried to figure it out. They fixed the weather stripping around the car and window but it's still so loud. They can't figure it out and the dealership told me to try another dealership at this point. Please help
Hey there, if you send over a DM with your VIN and dealer info, I can look into your concerns on my end.
 
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Deeb

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Thanks,

I've already spoken to a couple of people at Ford and they didn't help at all, I had to escalate it. It's so uncomfortable to drive, it's so loud
 

TrailMaster

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I had this issue and was not willing to consider having Ford start ripping in to my new truck.

I used weather strip of various types and sizes all over the interior, around the windshield/dash gap, and windows and doors front and rear. It's about 95% less noisy than it was before.
 

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As soon as I received my truck something hadn't been right. When I drive about 50 or so air rushes in. It sounds like it's from both front windows...
What trim level is your Maverick?
On cheaper trims, the foam insulation in the gap between the front doors and the engine compartment is omitted. That may be the source of some of your noise. In daylight, if you pop the hood and then open one of the front doors, you'll immediately see daylight through the gap I'm referring to.

I added some rubber HVAC lineset insulation to that gap and it reduced the noise in the cab somewhat. I later added sound attenuation material to the inside of the front door panels and that further reduced road noise.
 

Bwicka

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What trim level is your Maverick?
On cheaper trims, the foam insulation in the gap between the front doors and the engine compartment is omitted. That may be the source of some of your noise. In daylight, if you pop the hood and then open one of the front doors, you'll immediately see daylight through the gap I'm referring to.

I added some rubber HVAC lineset insulation to that gap and it reduced the noise in the cab somewhat. I later added sound attenuation material to the inside of the front door panels and that further reduced road noise.
Correct , there is a foam insert between inner fender and door hinge area on lariats. These are about $30 to purchase per side . You can also add kilz or dynamat sound deodoning to floor and doors . You should also check floor and wall behind brake pedal that the large grommets have not been opened up.
This level of vehicle does not have much sound insulation or seasoning , that’s why you pay more for a luxury vehicle usually , we are buying cheap work trucks priced with inflation and rise of dollar , they are inline with a 1931 model A (touring or town car, 4 seater).
So I guess the adjustable seats, led’s , infotainment , remote entry, airbags , crash bars, speed capability over 65 mph are just gains over the last 90 years!
Kind of sucky , but where we are at .
 

fossil

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I'd be taking a hard look at the door weather stripping, door to body.
 

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Correct , there is a foam insert between inner fender and door hinge area on lariats. These are about $30 to purchase per side . You can also add kilz or dynamat sound deodoning to floor and doors . You should also check floor and wall behind brake pedal that the large grommets have not been opened up.
This level of vehicle does not have much sound insulation or seasoning , that’s why you pay more for a luxury vehicle usually , we are buying cheap work trucks priced with inflation and rise of dollar , they are inline with a 1931 model A (touring or town car, 4 seater).
So I guess the adjustable seats, led’s , infotainment , remote entry, airbags , crash bars, speed capability over 65 mph are just gains over the last 90 years!
Kind of sucky , but where we are at .
I need these, my 23 XLT doesn't have them installed. They should have been installed on all trims, but $30 per side may be doable . My question would be can they be installed easily, or do they require a dealer to slap them in?
 

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RE: Fender insulation = my Lariat has them. As stated, lesser trims don't. When I installed my side marker lights I had to push the insulation aside with a thin paint stir stick to get to the wiring. I forgot to push the insulation back. Big noise difference.

I believe you can DIY the insulation. Having no relevant experience to share, it does look like you can work it in from an open driver's and passenger door. It locates directly behind the [fake] side vent emblem. The insualtion is wrapped in thin plastic so be careful as you push it in. Install so it goes up high in the space - that is where my noise came from.

My guess is the foam is installed at the factory after the fender is on. Just a guess.

Unrelated: A couple of times a year I put silicone rubber lube from a tube, similar in consistency to petroleum jelly, on all my door gaskets. This takes out any rubbing sounds between the rubber and the door frame. I also put it on the rubber gasket near the firewall in the engine compartment.

FYI - My other vehicles have a foam block molded to the contour of the fender. Even my 21 year old PT Cruiser has this.
 
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wax87

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As soon as I received my truck something hadn't been right. When I drive about 50 or so air rushes in. It sounds like it's from both front windows. It's so loud that often people on the phone can't hear me. I've had my truck in the shop for about a total of 8 weeks while they tried to figure it out. They fixed the weather stripping around the car and window but it's still so loud. They can't figure it out and the dealership told me to try another dealership at this point. Please help
I put clear silicone sealant all around mine and it fixed that issue
 

smoreho2

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Correct , there is a foam insert between inner fender and door hinge area on lariats. These are about $30 to purchase per side . You can also add kilz or dynamat sound deodoning to floor and doors . You should also check floor and wall behind brake pedal that the large grommets have not been opened up.
This level of vehicle does not have much sound insulation or seasoning , that’s why you pay more for a luxury vehicle usually , we are buying cheap work trucks priced with inflation and rise of dollar , they are inline with a 1931 model A (touring or town car, 4 seater).
So I guess the adjustable seats, led’s , infotainment , remote entry, airbags , crash bars, speed capability over 65 mph are just gains over the last 90 years!
Kind of sucky , but where we are at .
Is there a Ford part number(s) for these missing foam inserts???
 

rlhdweman

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Those foam inserts help a little bit I installed them & didn't notice a big difference, but I used to have the radio volume at 10, after putting them in 9 is plenty loud, so for the little they cost it's worth it, for me they were a real pain to put in.
 

cyberdog

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My Lariat Hybrid is one of the quietest vehicles I've owned, and certainly quieter than my '12 Outback 3.6R, with less wind and road noise. That said, Consumer Reports indicated the ECO XLT model was a little on the loud side, however the Hybrid was significantly quieter.......the Hybrid they tested was a Lariat FWIW. - All Hybrid or Lariats get those insulation panels, but only the Lariat gets the Soundscreen Windshield, which may contribute to wind noise on the highway. Having sensitive ears was one of the reasons for ordering the Lariat, bad enough there's ringing or a high pitched noise, but other noises always seem louder or too loud to me.

What I've done in the past is apply a fat-mat type product to the outer door skins, and pieces inside the inner door panel. You'd be surprised out much than can reduce noise. I'll echo to check not only the door seals, but the window seal inside the track to ensure there's a tight fit against the glass.

Also make sure the windows are actually going all the way up and not stopping just short of fully up, which creates a possible source of noise....piece of paper (or a dollar bill) in the channel, raise the window and see how tight the paper/bill is pinched. - The shops have an ultrasonic device, turn the emitter on inside the vehicle, and run the receiver along the edges of the window and doors to locate gaps.
 

Bwicka

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Those foam inserts help a little bit I installed them & didn't notice a big difference, but I used to have the radio volume at 10, after putting them in 9 is plenty loud, so for the little they cost it's worth it, for me they were a real pain to put in.
Here is drivers side

https://www.autonationparts.com/par...MI-N-53tLPhwMV1hGtBh2ylCraEAQYAiABEgLUB_D_BwE
It’s easiest doing from wheelwell side with tire off , maybe 30 minutes to pull tire and all the clips for inner fender cover , 1 minute to put in and 15 to put it all back together.
I would really do a dyno mat or kilz sound seasoned on firewall kickpanel area and under door panel around speaker area . Will make the stereo more defined and technically more effective.
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