Question about upgrading audio and adding a subwoofer.

[creepshow]

I'm looking to add an aftermarket Sub/amp using a line ouput converter. I've been doing some research and it seems that the rear speakers don't receive a bass signal, but does anyone know if this is done digitally somehow, or if the speakers themselves just have bass blockers installed? Follow-up, if it's the latter, I'm assuming I can still tap into the wire before the bass blocker and it should be a full signal?

I really don't want to take apart the dash to get to the front speakers wiring if I can avoid it, and it would be really nice to tap into the speakers that are right there.

Thanks in advance!

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[CurtisB]

There is quite a write up somewhere in here about aftermarket stereo upgrades. One guy did it so clean, you could eat off his install!! I'm not perfect in this, but when I did my upgrade, I found that the stock head unit appears to have been digitally made to not allow bass in the rear speakers. So, I installed a 10" woofer amp attached to the rear speakers (instructions for the amp tells you to). I had to tap into the wires running from the head unit to put in another amp for the front 4 speakers. It works, but I have since found out that there is an aftermarket harness that you can plug into the rear of the stock head unit and run wires from it.

Another thing you find out is that the stock head unit will still try to function as programmed, so an after market equalizer system will be necessary to balance the sound from all 6 speakers. For me, I've gone as far as I want to with this.

And lastly, I would suggest you have a separate "off" bypass switch for your upgrade. I have found that there seems to still be a draw going on in the system even if your amp lights go off. It would drain my battery within two days. Since I installed the switch, no problems.

 

[creepshow]

Thanks for the help! Someone on Reddit suggested the prebuilt harness too. (This is the one I'm looking at). It also comes with a better line output converter than the one I was looking at. If I'm going to take apart the dash anyway, I'll likely just go this route. It's a little pricier than I was planning, but I think it's worth it.

Thanks for the heads up about the power draw. I'm interested to see if that's an issue with the plugnplay harness, but it's good to know to keep an eye out for it.

 

[CurtisB]

Thanks for the help! Someone on Reddit suggested the prebuilt harness too. (This is the one I'm looking at). It also comes with a better line output converter than the one I was looking at. If I'm going to take apart the dash anyway, I'll likely just go this route. It's a little pricier than I was planning, but I think it's worth it.

Thanks for the heads up about the power draw. I'm interested to see if that's an issue with the plugnplay harness, but it's good to know to keep an eye out for it.

A...........HELL YEAH!! That harness is the ticket to happiness! Use it and you should not have any "draw" issues. Plus it allows you to use the low imput jacks on your amp. No distortion. It's worth it. Buy it. Spend it!

 

[jccain47]

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[colinl]

Thanks for the help! Someone on Reddit suggested the prebuilt harness too. (This is the one I'm looking at). It also comes with a better line output converter than the one I was looking at. If I'm going to take apart the dash anyway, I'll likely just go this route. It's a little pricier than I was planning, but I think it's worth it.

Thanks for the heads up about the power draw. I'm interested to see if that's an issue with the plugnplay harness, but it's good to know to keep an eye out for it.

First, determine your budget and end goals. Then identify speakers and amp(s) to get you there, and adjust your budget up or down as required. My truck has B&O and I'm still using the factory amp, with a dedicated sub and amp added. If I had an XLT I would likely be looking at the Alpine Optima8 as I think it has value over the very popular (for good reason) Kicker Key 200.4 + Key 500.1 combo. Leave the rear speakers stock and fade them mostly or entirely out.

@HushCarAudio can build you a custom harness. the value of a harness is that you can re-use some of the stock wiring - or all of it, if you install coaxials in the doors and just disconnect the factory dash tweeters.

I would not do that, by the way. I would use a harness, install crossovers if needed (can your amplifier bi-amp for components? the two I listed above can), and run new lines to the tweeters. Running new lines to the tweeters does not require disassembling the dash in any meaningful way. The grilles are easy to remove, and there are side covers that are also easily taken out. Then you just fish about a foot of wire through the dash to either your amp or passive crossover.

 

[colinl]

it seems that the rear speakers don't receive a bass signal, but does anyone know if this is done digitally somehow, or if the speakers themselves just have bass blockers installed?

forgot to answer this part.

It is an active / electronic filter done in the audio module, either Sync3 for B&O trucks or Ford Connected Audio for everything else. There are no passive crossovers in either stock system.

 

[creepshow]

First, determine your budget and end goals. Then identify speakers and amp(s) to get you there, and adjust your budget up or down as required. My truck has B&O and I'm still using the factory amp, with a dedicated sub and amp added. If I had an XLT I would likely be looking at the Alpine Optima8 as I think it has value over the very popular (for good reason) Kicker Key 200.4 + Key 500.1 combo. Leave the rear speakers stock and fade them mostly or entirely out.

@HushCarAudio can build you a custom harness. the value of a harness is that you can re-use some of the stock wiring - or all of it, if you install coaxials in the doors and just disconnect the factory dash tweeters.

I would not do that, by the way. I would use a harness, install crossovers if needed (can your amplifier bi-amp for components? the two I listed above can), and run new lines to the tweeters. Running new lines to the tweeters does not require disassembling the dash in any meaningful way. The grilles are easy to remove, and there are side covers that are also easily taken out. Then you just fish about a foot of wire through the dash to either your amp or passive crossover.

Probably just going to keep it simple. Looking at a monoblock amp with a sub using the GroundShaker enclosure that fits under the rear seat. Definitely going to change out the front door speakers, but probably won't run an amp to them.

I'm currently debating between the kit from plugnplaykits that comes with the lc2i LOC, or the Puzu DSP that another member recommended. Not sure I need all the functionality of a DSP, plus its from a random Chinese brand that I can't find a lot of info on.

 

[colinl]

Probably just going to keep it simple. Looking at a monoblock amp with a sub using the GroundShaker enclosure that fits under the rear seat. Definitely going to change out the front door speakers, but probably won't run an amp to them.

I'm currently debating between the kit from plugnplaykits that comes with the lc2i LOC, or the Puzu DSP that another member recommended. Not sure I need all the functionality of a DSP, plus its from a random Chinese brand that I can't find a lot of info on.

I have never liked having a decent sub with a stock, non-amplified main speaker system. it can be tuned to sound OK at low/mid volume but if you turn it up - and I like doing that - it sounds awful.

the puzu is really cheap and people seem happy with it now. whomever the first adopter was, that poor guy had to do a lot of manual work. (he has a thread here; sorry, I can't recall his username.)

I think their ford kit you linked is truly plug and play now, and their stuff seems to work. I would not expect it to be like the Alpine Optima8 DSP, for 1/5th the price (and a lot less power), but for $135 it's hard to go wrong.

 

[creepshow]

I have never liked having a decent sub with a stock, non-amplified main speaker system. it can be tuned to sound OK at low/mid volume but if you turn it up - and I like doing that - it sounds awful.

the puzu is really cheap and people seem happy with it now. whomever the first adopter was, that poor guy had to do a lot of manual work. (he has a thread here; sorry, I can't recall his username.)

I think their ford kit you linked is truly plug and play now, and their stuff seems to work. I would not expect it to be like the Alpine Optima8 DSP, for 1/5th the price (and a lot less power), but for $135 it's hard to go wrong.

Thanks for your help! I might end up amplifying the speakers eventually, but I think I'll start by doing what I can with the Puzu and see how that sounds (with aftermarket speakers, of course). Not really trying to go super loud, just want to upgrade the stock system slightly because, let's be honest, it desperately needs it

 

[colinl]

Thanks for your help! I might end up amplifying the speakers eventually, but I think I'll start by doing what I can with the Puzu and see how that sounds (with aftermarket speakers, of course). Not really trying to go super loud, just want to upgrade the stock system slightly because, let's be honest, it desperately needs it

the puzu is an amp with dsp. it's claimed to be 4x50w, like a Kicker Key 200.4, but I personally have a lot of doubt about that.

what I don't have doubt about, however, is that it has more RMS power than the Ford Connected Audio module. even if it's only 25w RMS, it will be a noticeable upgrade over no amp.

 

[creepshow]

the puzu is an amp with dsp. it's claimed to be 4x50w, like a Kicker Key 200.4, but I personally have a lot of doubt about that.

what I don't have doubt about, however, is that it has more RMS power than the Ford Connected Audio module. even if it's only 25w RMS, it will be a noticeable upgrade over no amp.

Well since you seem pretty knowledgeable - any recommendations for front door speakers? trying to stay around $100 for the pair.

 

[colinl]

Well since you seem pretty knowledgeable - any recommendations for front door speakers? trying to stay around $100 for the pair.

The components I'm using are on a really good sale right now. There is a newer model, the Auditor Evo, and I wonder if the RSE-165 is being closed out. $100 off is a much better deal than I got.
https://www.crutchfield.com/g_400/A...nvpair=FFDesign|[rank5]2-way Component System

A guy whose opinion I value installed the Rockford Fosgates that are also on sale and he liked them. I think the tweeter is bigger and he chose to surface-mount them on top of the factory tweeter grille cover.

 

[creepshow]

The components I'm using are on a really good sale right now. There is a newer model, the Auditor Evo, and I wonder if the RSE-165 is being closed out. $100 off is a much better deal than I got.
https://www.crutchfield.com/g_400/All-Car-Speakers.html?tp=105&l=C&fa=1#&avf=Y&l=C&nvpair=FFDesign|[rank5]2-way Component System

A guy whose opinion I value installed the Rockford Fosgates that are also on sale and he liked them. I think the tweeter is bigger and he chose to surface-mount them on top of the factory tweeter grille cover.

Awesome. Just ordered the RSE-165, as well as the Puzu. Should have them installed by next weekend!

 

[MikeyG]

I just finished my budget system a couple months ago. Check it out on my build thread. Upgrading the factory speakers definitely is a huge upgrade.

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