Oil change, Stahlbus quick drain installation and Rival skid plate fail.

[mepot101]

Don't stress that little bit of oil left in the pan.
There is still a lot of oil in all the passages to the crank, cam, overhead, etc.
You will never get it all.
Run the engine some, then drain while the oil is warm,
while any junk is suspended in the oil, and you will get as much as possible.
I installed a Rival and a Valvomax brand drain valve, which looks similar to yours, during my first oil change. Haven't actually used it yet, waiting for my next service.
If you were in Florida, I could help you with the Rival, just be safe, wheel chocks, jack stands as needed, etc.

Sponsored

 

[dalola]

Stahlbus doesn't necessarily agree with you:

https://www.stahlbus.com/info/en/se...lete-oil-flow-out-through-the-oil-drain-valve

If an inclined drain hole has an insert that is not removed at drain time, that insert will effectively decrease the drain hole inner diameter a couple of millimeters. That can have the effect of leaving that couple of millimeters of oil in the pan. Can you explain why the Maverick drain hole is not affected in that way?

I'm not quite sure what you mean by "inclined drain hole". The Mav 2.0 EB oil drain is at the bottom edge of the pan, and the Stahlbus male thread does not extend past the female thread of the pan. If you are still concerned about it, drain the oil hot, and raise the front slightly higher than the rear, there will not be any oil left in the pan.

 

[Tbone289]

I'm not quite sure what you mean by "inclined drain hole". The Mav 2.0 EB oil drain is at the bottom edge of the pan, and the Stahlbus male thread does not extend past the female thread of the pan. If you are still concerned about it, drain the oil hot, and raise the front slightly higher than the rear, there will not be any oil left in the pan.

It doesn't need to extend past the female threads to impede more than the factory drain. It is the smaller inner diameter of the valve (vs the larger diameter of the factory drain hole) and the horizontal configuration of the drain hole that is the factor. The smaller diameter of the valve will leave more used oil in the sump than the larger diameter of the factory drain hole due to bottom portion of the inner diameter of the valve being higher in the pan.

If you've read my prior comments in the thread, you'll know that I've already stated that it should be drained hot and that the difference in drain amount is negligible, so I have no concerns. No drain allows a 100% complete drain of the used oil, and the amount left over isn't enough to dilute the fresh oil to any impactful degree. A statement made about any drain that it "in no way impedes a complete drain" is not factual, and if you've ever removed an oil pan from an engine that should be obvious.

I continue to use factory plugs that ensure the most complete drain achievable as I have for 35 years. It's simple, reliable and just works, and doesn't need to be complicated with a valve, IMO.

 

[Gid]

I use

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DBB96PJ?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2

Check out the last little bit of the video and it shows a neoprene tube attached to the nipple valve. That's the type that I use, and it puts the used oil exactly where I want it. Then I remove the neoprene tube and store it with my filter wrench for the next oil change. My link is for my Subaru valve. I haven't bought one for my Maverick yet. They are make/ model specific.

 

[dalola]

It doesn't need to extend past the female threads to impede more than the factory drain. It is the smaller inner diameter of the valve (vs the larger diameter of the factory drain hole) and the horizontal configuration of the drain hole that is the factor. The smaller diameter of the valve will leave more used oil in the sump than the larger diameter of the factory drain hole due to bottom portion of the inner diameter of the valve being higher in the pan.

If you've read my prior comments in the thread, you'll know that I've already stated that it should be drained hot and that the difference in drain amount is negligible, so I have no concerns. No drain allows a 100% complete drain of the used oil, and the amount left over isn't enough to dilute the fresh oil to any impactful degree. A statement made about any drain that it "in no way impedes a complete drain" is not factual, and if you've ever removed an oil pan from an engine that should be obvious.

I continue to use factory plugs that ensure the most complete drain achievable as I have for 35 years. It's simple, reliable and just works, and doesn't need to be complicated with a valve, IMO.

No one is forcing you to change your ways....

 

[Jalopy Technology]

I learned long ago not to sweat the small stuff. You may miss 1oz of dirty oil with those aftermarket drains.

I used one on my '95 Peterbilt and the CAT engine made 1,918,000 before I did the first inframe rebuild... and I could have gone another 500,000 miles except one cylinder liner perforated and ot got water in the oil.

 

[Tbone289]

No one is forcing you to change your ways....

Nor did I believe or state that anyone was. I was pointing out that your statement that it doesn't impede a complete drain wasn't true, and that your comments/advice about any concerns wasn't necessary, as it had already been stated by myself and others that there were none.

 

[The Real Maverick]

Nor did I believe or state that anyone was. I was pointing out that your statement that it doesn't impede a complete drain wasn't true, and that your comments about any concerns had already been stated by myself and others.

Here's the thing:

You can be right and wrong at the same time.

DIY'ers will be using ramps which will aid in a nearly 100% drain by tilting the truck.

Dealerships will use either a lift, or park above a pit, and the truck will be level.

So DIY'ers using the Stahlbus or similar will be getting a better drain percent than a dealership would get using the stock setup.

You have nothing to worry about.

 

[Tbone289]

Here's the thing:

You can be right and wrong at the same time.

DIY'ers will be using ramps which will aid in a nearly 100% drain by tilting the truck.

Dealerships will use either a lift, or park above a pit, and the truck will be level.

So DIY'ers using the Stahlbus or similar will be getting a better drain percent than a dealership would get using the stock setup.

Which method combined with which drain will leave no oil in the pan? Is the "nearly 100%" that the DIYers are accomplishing with tilt a complete drain?

I understand that there are different methods of draining that can affect the outcome. There isn't a single drain configuration I've seen that allows a complete sump drain by any method. In all cases, when I've removed a drained sump from an engine, it was not empty. As I've stated more than once, all of them impede a complete drain to a degree. Some impede more than others. Tilt from ramps or not, drain valve inserts impede a complete drain, and do so more than the stock drain.

Note that I've also stated more than once that the remaining oil left behind by the incomplete drain is not an issue. Yet, people still keep telling me that "You have nothing to worry about". It's funny, because it shows either a lack of reading comprehension or selective reading of the comments in the thread.

You seem to be implying that I'm right and wrong. Which part is wrong?

 

[dalola]

Nor did I believe or state that anyone was. I was pointing out that your statement that it doesn't impede a complete drain wasn't true, and that your comments/advice about any concerns wasn't necessary, as it had already been stated by myself and others that there were none.

lol....unnecessary comments & advice......

I'll say it again for you, just to sink in a little, since you like redundancy.... My Stahlbus valve IN NO WAY impedes the complete oil drain process.

You can apply any logic you like to your own truck.

Moving on....

 

[Tbone289]

I'll say it again for you, just to sink in a little, since you like redundancy.... My Stahlbus valve IN NO WAY impedes the complete oil drain process.

Gosh, it must be true if you've said it twice!

Sorry, saying it twice doesn't make it more true. It has sunk in that you seem certain. Now humor me, and tell me why you're certain. Until then, your statement just sounds like blind faith.

You can apply any logic you like to your own truck.

Moving on....

Of course you'd rather take the easy route and "move on". At least I've offered logic and explained the reasoning behind why it does impede drainage. That logic doesn't just apply to my truck, and Stahlbus even agrees to the same logic on their website. Imagine that!

But OK, I'll move on, because I know you can't offer any proof that it drains completely.

 

[Meeka]

lol....unnecessary comments & advice......

I'll say it again for you, just to sink in a little, since you like redundancy.... My Stahlbus valve IN NO WAY impedes the complete oil drain process.

You can apply any logic you like to your own truck.

Moving on....

Let’s just say it’s good advice to change oil and filter ever 5000 miles, I, being in Canada, change mine every 3500 kms, need it or not, but like a few have said, ‘to each his own’. Peace of mind dudes!

 

[shadow76]

They should make those drain valves with a 90 degree fitting on the end so the oil flows straight down

PS Nellis AFB is pretty awesome. I was lucky enough to attend Aviation Nation after SEMA a few years ago, it was a great time

I use the famcamp several times annually. The base a great place to stay when traveling to CA.

 

[Maverick123]

Let’s just say it’s good advice to change oil and filter ever 5000 miles, I, being in Canada, change mine every 3500 kms, need it or not, but like a few have said, ‘to each his own’. Peace of mind dudes!

3500 km = 2175 miles

 

[The Real Maverick]

3500 km = 2175 miles

Yes, but it's recycled french fry oil so it's greener and smells good.

Sponsored