New sounds going in soon sub enclosure set up

[AJFord]

Getting ready to upgrade the audio..soooo need it lol. Youtube link below

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[rallyshark]

Great enclosures, and that truck bed liner on there makes the whole enclosure stronger as too. I have a Hertz MPS 250 S2 in mine, and it does very well. Another bonus is that sub comes with a very good grill, so you don't have to worry about the sub hitting the bottom of the seat. The JL shallow subs are quite good as well. Just make sure to go into Forscan and set the factory EQ to flat, or you will be missing the low bass

 

[edrenaline]

Just make sure to go into Forscan and set the factory EQ to flat, or you will be missing the low bass

You can use Forscan to remove the high pass filter enabled on the rear speaker outputs? Is that on the base audio? I don't have the B&O

 

[rallyshark]

Even the base stereo has a high pass filter on all speakers. I'm not positive if setting the EQ to flat removes the high pass on the rears. I do know it removes it from the fronts, because that is where I have the signal for my sub coming from. I'm guessing the high pass is probably the same on fronts and rears, but the rear speakers have a capacitor on them(6db high pass) for an even higher high pass. Again, not completely sure about the rears, because I've heard conflicting reports on that. I'm running a DSP that allows me to chose where I pull my sub signal from, and I set it for the fronts, because I knew for sure they would be full range. Either way, I'm of the opinion that a DSP is a must have to get good sound from these trucks.

 

[edrenaline]

I was going to use an Audio Control unit of some sort, but not sure which model. From an effort standpoint, it would be much easier to tap into the rear speakers for amp input, but need to be 100% sure it's a full range signal. If someone can confirm it is a setting in FORSCAN that would be great.

 

[colinl]

I was going to use an Audio Control unit of some sort, but not sure which model. From an effort standpoint, it would be much easier to tap into the rear speakers for amp input, but need to be 100% sure it's a full range signal. If someone can confirm it is a setting in FORSCAN that would be great.

you can use a T harness which will save some time by allowing you to re-use the front door and rear pillar factory wiring, but you'll still need to run new wire to the tweeters whether you have a component crossover or you're bi-amping. this would also have the significant benefit of tapping into the front signal for your line-out converter.

I like the new Alpine Optim8 C80, you can read about it here: https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threads/alpine-pxe-c80-88-optim8-power-thd-tests.463107/

(BTW in that thread, I am not ADF-Maverick, but someone who is active on DIYmobileaudio definitely has one of these in a Maverick. I just think it's a cool amp.)

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