Mud flaps for LOBO?

[Buggy Man]

Well, some of us like to solve our own problems and spend time doing something constructive. I'm somewhere around 30/hr and I think you are a pompase ass.

right back at you my friend

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[colinl]

Any of the existing molded designs will not work on the rear of the Lobo. The shape was changed on the Lobo rear bumper and will require mfgs to produce a new mold.

Crude sketch on the basic profile difference.

thanks for the pics and sketch. it appears the lobo has a different rear bumper cover. the differences are so minor that I can't believe Ford bothered with the extra cost, but they definitely did. (EDIT: I wonder if the bumpers are made by a 3rd party and painted, then shipped to Ford, and these minor differences were actually not intentional? )

you can see another difference in the lobo rear bumper cover here: https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...ent-mabett-rear-bumper-cover-lobo-only.65094/

 

[Buggy Man]

Any of the existing molded designs will not work on the rear of the Lobo. The shape was changed on the Lobo rear bumper and will require mfgs to produce a new mold.

Crude sketch on the basic profile difference.

Thanks Dave, I have no other Mavericks to compare to, so I appreciate the information.
I will be moving ahead with my flat mud flaps/splash guards.
Yea, I think "splash guards" is a more accurate description of what I need for my Mav.

 

[Chops]

Yea, I think "splash guards" is a more accurate description of what I need for my Mav.

Here in the desert, my Lobo will rarely see a splash or mud. I guess I’ll consider my Rokblokz pebble/dust guards.

 

[Buggy Man]

Thanks for posting the pictures. Now I have a better idea of what I need to do.
Some people on MTC have mentioned that the flaps/guards were rubbing away the paint on the fender edge. Have you noticed any of this ?
I think the flap was moving around as they suggested using RTV to stabilize them.

 

[Chops]

Thanks for posting the pictures. Now I have a better idea of what I need to do.
Some people on MTC have mentioned that the flaps/guards were rubbing away the paint on the fender edge. Have you noticed any of this ?
I think the flap was moving around as they suggested using RTV to stabilize them.

I can only speak for the Rokblokz - but no rubbing or RTV
required.

Front flap was easy - reused 2 OEM plastic snaps (easier) and a supplied snap from Rokblokz. Holding up great.

The rear requires the supplied screws/washers/inserts that would have been easy to install if the screws were NOT Phillips Head. What a pain if you leave the wheel on like I did. Even with a small “L-shape” Phillip head screwdriver, the clearance sucks. A 2 minute job with a hex head became a 30 minute job with a screwdriver!

But results are great - flaps bend with the shape of the wheelwell & don’t rub on paint.

 

[colinl]

Some people on MTC have mentioned that the flaps/guards were rubbing away the paint on the fender edge. Have you noticed any of this ?

my rokblokz don't move that I've noticed. I first installed this set 3 years ago on my first edition, drove that for 6k miles, then when I sold it I moved the mudflaps to my current truck.

I have 55k on my truck now but I have not really tried to look behind them because I think they are staying forever, unless/until the hardware fails. It is plastic sitting on paint, so honestly, I would expect it to eventually wear through that very edge.

 

[Buggy Man]

I can only speak for the Rokblokz - but no rubbing or RTV
required.

Front flap was easy - reused 2 OEM plastic snaps (easier) and a supplied snap from Rokblokz. Holding up great.

The rear requires the supplied screws/washers/inserts that would have been easy to install if the screws were NOT Phillips Head. What a pain if you leave the wheel on like I did. Even with a small “L-shape” Phillip head screwdriver, the clearance sucks. A 2 minute job with a hex head became a 30 minute job with a screwdriver!

But results are great - flaps bend with the shape of the wheelwell & don’t rub on paint.

Thanks for the update and good to know about the Philips head screws. Are the screws sheet metal or threaded, like metric?
It would such a pain to have to remove those wheels just to tighten 2 Philips head screws.
I'd be looking to swap the Philips hd screws with SS hex hd screws. (I hate rusty hardware)

 

[Buggy Man]

my rokblokz don't move that I've noticed. I first installed this set 3 years ago on my first edition, drove that for 6k miles, then when I sold it I moved the mudflaps to my current truck.

I have 55k on my truck now but I have not really tried to look behind them because I think they are staying forever, unless/until the hardware fails. It is plastic sitting on paint, so honestly, I would expect it to eventually wear through that very edge.

I just posted to chops about using SS hardware. I hate rusty hardware.
Only problem is when stainless steel screw rolls under the car or bench you can't retrieve it with a magnet...LOL!

 

[Tbone289]

Thanks for the update and good to know about the Philips head screws. Are the screws sheet metal or threaded, like metric?
It would such a pain to have to remove those wheels just to tighten 2 Philips head screws.
I'd be looking to swap the Philips hd screws with SS hex hd screws. (I hate rusty hardware)

They're sheet metal screws, not machine screws.

I installed and adjusted my Rockblokz mud flaps with a #2 phillips head bit in a ratchet with no issues with the wheels & tires mounted. There's plenty of clearance. Two in each front flap, three in each rear.

 

[Buggy Man]

They're sheet metal screws, not machine screws.

I installed and adjusted my Rockblokz mud flaps with a #2 phillips head bit in a ratchet with no issues with the wheels & tires mounted. There's plenty of clearance. Two in each front flap, three in each rear.

Thanks, I'll have to try that when I get to installing my DIY mud/splash flaps.

 

[Chops]

They're sheet metal screws, not machine screws.

I installed and adjusted my Rockblokz mud flaps with a #2 phillips head bit in a ratchet with no issues with the wheels & tires mounted. There's plenty of clearance. Two in each front flap, three in each rear.

Dang, I have a “ratchet” Phillips head for my Park torque wrench.Could have started them by hand & finished with the wrench. Thanks for the tip!

 

[Chops]

Thanks for the update and good to know about the Philips head screws. Are the screws sheet metal or threaded, like metric?
It would such a pain to have to remove those wheels just to tighten 2 Philips head screws.
I'd be looking to swap the Philips hd screws with SS hex hd screws. (I hate rusty hardware)

I’ll post a pic of the extra bits from the install when I get back home

 

[Chops]

I just posted to chops about using SS hardware. I hate rusty hardware.
Only problem is when stainless steel screw rolls under the car or bench you can't retrieve it with a magnet...LOL!

Here is a pic on the non magnetic screws etc that are used…

 

[LNHAVARD]

I got the ford mudflaps from ford i like them

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