This. I'm finding daily excuses to get in and go. Such a joy to drive, I don't like her sitting there all lonely in the driveway for long.High Mileage could be an issue with us.
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This. I'm finding daily excuses to get in and go. Such a joy to drive, I don't like her sitting there all lonely in the driveway for long.High Mileage could be an issue with us.
The first pic shows the red cover for the positive threaded post (the red cover tips forward for access)No one knows for sure. But that is how they identify.
One is Red, the other is more neutral (bare silver)...
The FORD dealer that initially charged my Escape did so directly at the battery. AGM battery on the Escape though, so maybe different? BMS was never updated. I watched them pull the charger off and tell me it was good to go after they hooked everything back up. A little bit different system and the charger was a huge machine too, not like the one I have at home for AGM batteries. I did know about having to update the BMS if I replaced the battery with the updated AGM, but I never did that (mainly because FORD was doing all they could to avoid doing it by saying they could just charge it). Anyways... got rid of that thing and that was one of the reasons. It took about a month after charging before I got deep sleep notifications too. I understand it's not related to the Maverick, just trying to get some clarification mainly because I never trusted that dealership to begin with.Don't connect anything directly to the battery. Doing so bypasses the BMS system, so the charge (and/or load, if you're connecting a dash cam or something like that) will NOT be seen by the BMS. This can lead to all sorts of obscure problems.
For tricky charging, you should DEFINITELY use the posts under the hood.
The plugin meter is taking an "open circuit" reading resulting into the battery reading being reduced by the draw of what's on. When you open the door, the radio and others but not all are turned off and according to manual truck is placed into "ready to arm alarm" mode. I have not checked as it would require simultaneous readings at battery and your PowerPoint reading to get the open circuit adjustment. Bear in mind to get a more accurate reading you have to make it 45-60 minutes after turning truck off and when getting in turn the truck on in accessory mode without first activating ready status (minimize draw ). Then add your open circuit status adjustment which in my truck is 0.1-0.15v, I have not gone to trouble to verify my adjustment voltage. My power point monitor only reads in tenths of volts and has an accuracy of +/- 0.1v itself. 45 minutes after turning truck off. I can usually have an open circuit reading of 12.4-12.5v and on rare occasions 12.6. It would be interesting to put a recording voltage monitor with separate power supply, of course on the battery to measure the volume and time of draws the 12v has just sitting for a 24-72hour time period. One just sitting unlocked, one sitting locked by door, one sitting locked by remote with single push of button (apparently has basic "I am being touched" alarm), and also with double push of lock button (just to verify if it uses more current as it shuts dash, interior and delayed exterior lights immediately. It also honks the horn once which I take to be confirmation that the "anti theft alarm" has been set (if you have that option)! The manual says that the alarm has to be set using remote or key pad. I have not confirmed that double locking with keypad will honk horn. That would be further proof, I suppose.I do have a 12v plug-in meter that shows me the voltage when the truck is on. It ALWAYS shows 14.5 when the truck is on and the HV battery is feeding it. When I turn it off, and the radio/lights/whatnot is still on (and the outlet remains powered), I see it generally reporting 12.2-12.3v until I open the door. I was initially concerned at that low voltage, since a fully charged 12v battery should be at 12.65v, but I guess there are enough things still "on" (until I open and then lock the door), that the battery, if checked at the terminals, would likely be at or above 12.5v. But I have not been concerned enough to take a reading at the battery at that time. "If it ain't broke, I'm not going to worry about fixing it."