JL Stealthbox Install / Review

[rallyshark]

appreciate the info but kind of bummed to hear this. I am not really one to mess with software. too bad no other option to get most out of sub

You're literally only clicking on a few things, and ONLY changing the ACM(Audio Control Module) settings. You're not messing with anything else on the truck. I'll put it a different way: All you're doing is changing the "tone controls" of the radio. You're not changing how anything operates or functions. This is pretty much what has to be done on most any car made in the last 10 years, especially a Ford. My dealer didn't even care that I did it, since I didn't mess with anything important. Even software updates/recalls from the dealer don't affect this change. It couldn't be more simple and harmless. Also, there are people out there that will do it for you, if you don't want to do it yourself. There's probably someone near you that can do it for not much money or time.

I say all of that, because you shouldn't let something so small keep you from having the sound you want

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[colinl]

appreciate the info but kind of bummed to hear this. I am not really one to mess with software. too bad no other option to get most out of sub

no, there definitely are other options, they just cost money.

the best way to do it is a sub amp with integrated dsp such as a Kicker Key 500.1. there are others as well, many of them considerably more expensive. in general they all will work by seeing the weaker low frequency signal and boosting it. if you already have an amp you can get a line-out converter that does this same/similar thing such as a kicker keyloc or audiocontrol lc2i.

you want signal from the front door speakers, which you can directly splice into, or you can use a t-harness from PAC or a t-harness kit from hush car audio, plugnplay kits and similar hand-built cabling vendors.

 

[Toddman45]

appreciate the info but kind of bummed to hear this. I am not really one to mess with software. too bad no other option to get most out of sub

This is a great option that requires no splicing or cutting a factory wires if you don't want to use Forscan. Simple plug and play at the factory head unit for tapping signal wires adding a lock or amplifier.

You just plug it in in line with your factory connections and you can tap it for your speaker signal to your amplifier.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541LPHFD31/PAC-LPHFD31-LocPro-Advanced-T-Harness.html

 

[tellyouwhat]

This is a great option that requires no splicing or cutting a factory wires if you don't want to use Forscan. Simple plug and play at the factory head unit for tapping signal wires adding a lock or amplifier.

You just plug it in in line with your factory connections and you can tap it for your speaker signal to your amplifier.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541LPHFD31/PAC-LPHFD31-LocPro-Advanced-T-Harness.html

hmm , interesting. Liking the plug and play option. thanks for this

so if I just use this plug I will have access to the deeper bass? sounds too easy. why wouldn’t do this?

 

[colinl]

hmm , interesting. Liking the plug and play option. thanks for this

so if I just use this plug I will have access to the deeper bass? sounds too easy. why wouldn’t do this?

I would. I don't see any advantage in wiring from a rear speaker. saves what 15 minutes of work? just do it right from the front speakers.

 

[Abel7847]

I can't comment personally about the LC2i, but I can say with 100% certainty that the factory signal is cut below 40-ish hz. A straight LOC won't really help, but the LC2i may help some. I would recommend anyone with a sub(LC2i or not) to do the Forscan setting and listen to the difference for yourself. I'm running a full parametric 31 band DSP set up, and I had to max out my settings and move multiple bands below 50hz to get response down to 30hz and it still wasn't where it should be. Response below the heavily tweaked DSP response of 30hz was non-existent.

Now, with the factory EQ set to flat, I have solid response below 20hz and my DSP isn't tweaked to the max anymore. The sound is much better and it now sounds like it should. I'm sure the LC2i can help with the accubass setting, but it can't bring back signal that isn't there. Anytime you start heavily boosting signal in certain frequencies, you will lose some sound quality at some point. I'm not knocking the LC2i, and Audiocontrol makes good stuff. It is just a matter of it can't make signal where there is none. Now, depending on music, some people may never notice. I listen to a lot of different stuff, and I knew something was missing for sure. Doing the Forscan setting made it sound like a completely different system for me. I think the Forscan change is so easy and relatively inexpensive, that it is a no brainer. That is literally the only change I made in Forscan, and it was worth every penny that cable cost me(and I got the expensive one). That's just my 2 cents.

On a side note, the JL stealthboxes may not be a bargain, but I do believe they make a damn good product with great fit and function.

Where did you tap for the subwoofer, rear speakers or front.

 

[rallyshark]

Where did you tap for the subwoofer, rear speakers or front.

I tapped the fronts. Another added bonus to that is you don't lower the sub level of you fade to the front.

 

[Abel7847]

I tapped the fronts. Another added bonus to that is you don't lower the sub level of you fade to the front.

Ah Gotcha, I have heard people doing rear and front but rear has more complications I guess, I’m looking for some plug n play options for the harness, do you have an amp for the speakers also what sub did you go with? Can you post some pics I also have a hybrid.

 

[Irone]

Thanks for this! I was considering the same thing, but don’t want to concede the storage space. If it is possible, i would prefer behind the seat, but I know this will be difficult.

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