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InsaiyanAzn

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I'm looking for a way to add lights to mine so they pass PA inspection (off with highs on) and found some dude on Ebay who made a harness for me to try out based on what I think will work.
Essentially it's a pass through harness with jumpers for the high/low signals. Can't tell you if it actually works yet or not, literally just had it made and received. Too cold now to mess around with.
However, it looks like he's going to be making more based on my idea. May want to check into it or at least reach out to see if he has a solution that would work for you.

https://customautoworksstore.com/?s=Maverick+&post_type=product&dgwt_wcas=1
Awesome find on these connectors. Looks like he even has connectors for side marker lights so no splicing needed for auxiliary lights!!
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Awesome find on these connectors. Looks like he even has connectors for side marker lights so no splicing needed for auxiliary lights!!
These only work for the halogen headlights not the LED headlights in the lariat trim. Side marker will work for auxiliary marker lights but high/low harness will not. I found the high beam signal at the BCM in the passenger kick panel. Haven't wired it up yet but will update when I get around to doing the actual wiring.
 

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InsaiyanAzn

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The signal is digital. I have tested and confirmed. Also emailed them, it is for parking lights and DRL only(I believe). The headlights always have power to the headlight module. a second wire is communication signal to activate high or low.
OK I think understand since the high and low are led. This connector is a inbetween connector for turn signal/drl right? Since only the turn signal/drl and side marker are halogens.

Basically wondering if this a easier way to add for fog led pods with a connector like these? Obviously the side marker connector can be used for spliceless install of Raptor grill though right?
 
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The harness only provides output for parking lights, turn signal and DRL. Not high/low beams.

I would get switch pros to add switches. It clean and wiring is simple also no messy relays and fuse boxes, small and also compact.
 
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OK I think understand since the high and low are led. This connector is a inbetween connector for turn signal/drl right? Since only the turn signal/drl and side marker are halogens.

Basically wondering if this a easier way to add for fog led pods with a connector like these? Obviously the side marker connector can be used for spliceless install of Raptor grill though right?
Yes it will work for the raptor grille
 
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Something I've been planning for a while and haven't had the time or chance till now. Going camping soon so I thought now is the perfect time. Wanted a clean, flush look. Like if it would be a dealer option. Haven't wired it up yet. That'll be tomorrow. I'm going to put a temporary switch and go with something like switch pros later down the road.

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Can I ask where you powered these from for the hybrid? I want to install a light bar but on the hybrid as far as I can tell the 12v battery is under the rear seat. Not ideal for what I want.
 
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Can I ask where you powered these from for the hybrid? I want to install a light bar but on the hybrid as far as I can tell the 12v battery is under the rear seat. Not ideal for what I want.
Check the fuse box. There should be a power cable from the battery going to the fuse box. Just make sure you fuse the wire going to it. If you post a pic of the engine bay and a closeup of the fuse box I can help you out.
 
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Check the fuse box. There should be a power cable from the battery going to the fuse box. Just make sure you fuse the wire going to it. If you post a pic of the engine bay and a closeup of the fuse box I can help you out.
Thanks much! I figured it out through a little trial and error. Short version is you CAN run power from the "jump post" that's in the engine bay and just wire the negative terminal to the chassis. Downside is the little LED on my on/off switch in the cab is always powered on with the red light, but don't think it's enough of a power draw to cause problems. I'll post engine bay/wiring pics (I drilled sideways into the dummy compartment where fog lights/tow hooks would be) when I can if it helps others. Let me know if you can think of an easy way to cut power to that light switch when the engine is off (be nice to have it wired to ACC mode).

Ford Maverick In grille light bar install IMG_4574


Ford Maverick In grille light bar install IMG_4575


Ford Maverick In grille light bar install IMG_4576
 
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Thanks much! I figured it out through a little trial and error. Short version is you CAN run power from the "jump post" that's in the engine bay and just wire the negative terminal to the chassis. Downside is the little LED on my on/off switch in the cab is always powered on with the red light, but don't think it's enough of a power draw to cause problems. I'll post engine bay/wiring pics (I drilled sideways into the dummy compartment where fog lights/tow hooks would be) when I can if it helps others. Let me know if you can think of an easy way to cut power to that light switch when the engine is off (be nice to have it wired to ACC mode).

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You run the relay to the power post. But you run power for the switch through ignition or parking lights if you want them to turn off automatically. Unless you got a cheap harness that's used direct power to the switch. I would buy a relayed harness to prevent the switch form getting worn out because of high power draw.
 

ryan2366

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I grinded the sides that touch flat with a bench mounted grinding wheel. Then I used flat pieces of aluminum and bent the 90⁰ and glued them to the back part of the grille and used 3m double sided body moulding tape to keep the lights in place after aiming them (aluminum plates are easy to bend).
The rear half of the grill that mounts to the radiator support had to be cut, the bottom half cut off completely.

I will make a step by step diy when I get a chance.
Hey there.

I think this is the best looking setup for fog/driving lights. I bought these lights from the link you posted.

Did you have more pictures on how you mounted them to show how involved it was.

Cheers
 
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Hey there.

I think this is the best looking setup for fog/driving lights. I bought these lights from the link you posted.

Did you have more pictures on how you mounted them to show how involved it was.

Cheers
I wouldn't use these for fog/driving lights, they are mounted too high and will probably blind ppl. I use them as a off road light bar. Or you can use low powered lights in place of them. Not sure how they would look pointed straight down to the ground.

In any case I'd be happy to help you, I just don't have detailed pics but I can explain how I did them. First thing is remove the grille(it's easier to remove the entire bumper then the grille off the bumper).
 

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Thanks much! I figured it out through a little trial and error. Short version is you CAN run power from the "jump post" that's in the engine bay and just wire the negative terminal to the chassis. Downside is the little LED on my on/off switch in the cab is always powered on with the red light, but don't think it's enough of a power draw to cause problems. I'll post engine bay/wiring pics (I drilled sideways into the dummy compartment where fog lights/tow hooks would be) when I can if it helps others. Let me know if you can think of an easy way to cut power to that light switch when the engine is off (be nice to have it wired to ACC mode).

IMG_4574.jpg


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IMG_4576.jpg
I love the fit of that light bar in there. Do you by chance know the size of it or the model number and where you got it? I need something like that on mine
 
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I love the fit of that light bar in there. Do you by chance know the size of it or the model number and where you got it? I need something like that on mine
It's the Lasfit 22" amber light bar with spot/flood combo. Amazon link HERE if it lets me post. I also got their relay and switch linked HERE. Both on sale for 10% off as of today (11/6/23) so save yourself on taxes at least. Let me know if you have questions about install if/when the time comes.
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