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ikcelaks

2.5L Hybrid
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Long, idling warm-ups are bad for this reason. However, putting a cold engine under heavy loads is also bad. A short run at idle (30 seconds) with gentle loads until operating temperature is reached is the best method for operating a cold engine.
Yes, there are lots of YouTube videos with this advice, but I like that this one actually collected data:

Additionally, I'd say the behavior of the Maverick Hybrid interesting to consider, since the computer has more flexibility in optimizing engine warm up (and lots of incentive to expedite it). When the hybrid does a cold start, it immediately puts in gas engine in a fast idle with very low load (almost all power in the first acceleration will come from the electric traction motor, which gets a special allowance to draw twice as much current from the HVB as usual). After around five seconds (just an estimate / varies by temperature), a low to moderate load is transferred to the gas engine, which is still running at higher than usual RPM. It will operate like this (high RPM and lower than normal load / more electric assist) until reaching the lower bound of normal operating temperature.

This is essentially equivalent to a traditional gas vehicle fast idling for the first five seconds then driving conservatively in a lighter than normal gear until reaching operating temperature.
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Tbone289

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Yes, there are lots of YouTube videos with this advice, but I like that this one actually collected data:

Additionally, I'd say the behavior of the Maverick Hybrid interesting to consider, since the computer has more flexibility in optimizing engine warm up (and lots of incentive to expedite it). When the hybrid does a cold start, it immediately puts in gas engine in a fast idle with very low load (almost all power in the first acceleration will come from the electric traction motor, which gets a special allowance to draw twice as much current from the HVB as usual). After around five seconds (just an estimate / varies by temperature), a low to moderate load is transferred to the gas engine, which is still running at higher than usual RPM. It will operate like this (high RPM and lower than normal load / more electric assist) until reaching the lower bound of normal operating temperature.

This is essentially equivalent to a traditional gas vehicle fast idling for the first five seconds then driving conservatively in a lighter than normal gear until reaching operating temperature.
That is a good video with great data and from great experts in the field. Here is another one with oil analysis data that supports everything we've been talking about recently as well, and also directly supports what I've been saying about warm-up, ring seal, etc:

 
 







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