First Oil change observations

[Mach 1]

I changed my oil

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[19mustang65]

Thanks for posting.
Would you have waited as long knowing the filter was that small?

 

[Mach 1]

Filter did its job, i knew about the size way before the OC. I am high tech old school, firm believer in Ford engineers speced OC for ICE break in. I have always believed that a good ICE break in can only be completed by sufficient operational hrs/mileage. Lots of people change break in oil too early to satisfy proper break in. ICE break in usually is 10000m on a regular ICE. Hybrid being more related to a stationery generator is going to happen at a much later time.
I have seen too many times a person change oil at 1000, 3000, or 5000m and then dump synthetic oil in. Way before break in has occured.
The oil filter is a very integral component in Break in.
Another huge misconception is a huge filter does a better job, not really, plus you want to retain metal particles in oil(during break in period), to aid in break in anyway.

I was/am amazed that OLM is inline with my beliefs about oil life longevity, i was thinking between 16000-20000 OCI. I am very familiar with oil analysis. I dont recomend this interval for others especially city dwellers.

 

[Mach 1]

Do you have a 65? I have an S code 69 Mach 1 on a rotisserie in the middle of a total restomod/upgrade.

 

[Mavonorder]

I changed my oil for the first time, have some observations i would like to pass along. First particulars: waited until 9800m, oil monitor was at 44% oil life left, could have waited till 16000m?
This is one of the smallest oil filters i have seen on a vehicle, seen bigger OF on motorcycles, lawnmower, chipper, and HST.
Glad the FL910s is twice the size? At least 50% larger. Oil was still translucent though slightly tinted. Easy oil change.
More particulars: 15 #30 torx screws hold belly pan on, 15mm wrench drain bolt size, and small filter wrench required.
OF sits upright, so can do old school oil fill on filter. Nothing in way of drain plug, so oil does hit anything while draining. Used FL910s filter, tighten 1 full turn after contact, with oil lubbed gasket.
Definitely will be following oil life monitor, mine states 16000m OCI. Used M1 EP 0-20w oil, good for 20000m OCI.
Learned a few things about getting ICE to fire after OC, with .5 battery power showing.
Inspected/checked underneath for oil leaks and problems, checked CV boots, looked decent underneath.
Technology difference is huge compared to ICE counterpart. Lots of pumps/hoses, checked for rubbage as well.

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Got any sage breakin OC advice for us eb owners?

 

[Chicora]

I have seen too many times a person change oil at 1000, 3000, or 5000m and then dump synthetic oil in. Way before break in has occurred.

Thanks for sharing. I have much to learn.

is there a problem with using synthetic oil?

Is a blend better?

What is the problem changing at 5000m ( the break in period listed is shorter)?

 

[Mach 1]

EB, is totally different animal, i have owned 3 f150 Ecoboosts, its Achilles heal is direct injection, ring wash, and fuel dilution, best OA out of an ECO was ~8000m. My OCI was 8k. Do not excced this, i would recomend 6k.
I always run full syn in anything i own, tractor, lawn mowers, Powerwasher, etc. Especiallly a $30-$70k vehicle, nothing else but full syn with quality filter(no china).

 

[Mach 1]

The only problem with full synthetics, is when it is changed out prematurely on initial OC. Then full synthetic is added w/o a good clean breakin period. If you dont give the rings a chance to break in/seat in and add slipperry full synthetic, now its going to extend break in. I did this way back in 80s and it took forever for rings to seal, it used oil until after 50k miles, then it finally broke in and oil consumption nose dived.

This is reason i waited till 10k to change oil, which is equivalent to a regular ICE would be 6000m.

This is my first trial of a hybrid, have a bit to learn, but it really lines up to a stationary generator set, which have their own set of rules of OC/OA/OCI.

On the blends, this is what gets me, you take a gallon of mineral oil and add a teason of synthetic to it and you have a 'BLEND'. So you have to do your homework on it.

Another thing i have learned was from the oils is, the oil companies are under scrutiny to lower additives in their oils to reduce emissions, they have reduced the Zn/Ph levels too low, which is lubrication. My VWs diesels have non roller cams and i have to add Zn/Ph to their oil to retain the cam/lifters. FWIW..i run a 20000m OCI on the 1.9 diesel VW.

Back to ECOboosts, the high pressure fuel pump runs on the cam lobe, so guess what i add zn,ph to ecoboost oil to prevent this failure item. This is another reason to run no other but full synthetic.

Hope this helps someone, sorry about rambling on..

 

[Sliphorn]

Thanks for sharing. I have much to learn.

is there a problem with using synthetic oil?

Is a blend better?

What is the problem changing at 5000m ( the break in period listed is shorter)?

.
As far as I know, every 0W-20 oil that meets the Ford specification for the Maverick hybrid (WSS-M2C962-A1) is a full synthetic, though there may be a syn-blend or two available. Dino oil, and to a lesser extent, synthetic blends, are becoming things of the past for most every application.

However, all synthetics are not created equal.

www.bobistheoilguy.com for a lifetime of reading and education about motor oils.
.

 

[Espeer]

The only problem with full synthetics, is when it is changed out prematurely on initial OC. Then full synthetic is added w/o a good clean breakin period. If you dont give the rings a chance to break in/seat in and add slipperry full synthetic, now its going to extend break in. I did this way back in 80s and it took forever for rings to seal, it used oil until after 50k miles, then it finally broke in and oil consumption nose dived.

This is reason i waited till 10k to change oil, which is equivalent to a regular ICE would be 6000m.

This is my first trial of a hybrid, have a bit to learn, but it really lines up to a stationary generator set, which have their own set of rules of OC/OA/OCI.

On the blends, this is what gets me, you take a gallon of mineral oil and add a teason of synthetic to it and you have a 'BLEND'. So you have to do your homework on it.

Another thing i have learned was from the oils is, the oil companies are under scrutiny to lower additives in their oils to reduce emissions, they have reduced the Zn/Ph levels too low, which is lubrication. My VWs diesels have non roller cams and i have to add Zn/Ph to their oil to retain the cam/lifters. FWIW..i run a 20000m OCI on the 1.9 diesel VW.

Back to ECOboosts, the high pressure fuel pump runs on the cam lobe, so guess what i add zn,ph to ecoboost oil to prevent this failure item. This is another reason to run no other but full synthetic.

Hope this helps someone, sorry about rambling on..

When you say Ph, do you mean P or pH?

 

[Mach 1]

Espeer, PH= phosphorus

If you use the M1, try to get the EP M1, which is good for 20000m OCI. You can get it at most Wally worlds @$25 for 5qts.

The EP has a more robust additive package in it.

 

[Mach 1]

Espeer, you are right i missed it P= phosphorus, i didnt take chemistry in school, yeah it would be just P.

 

[LifeAngler]

EB, is totally different animal, i have owned 3 f150 Ecoboosts, its Achilles heal is direct injection, ring wash, and fuel dilution, best OA out of an ECO was ~8000m. My OCI was 8k. Do not excced this, i would recomend 6k.
I always run full syn in anything i own, tractor, lawn mowers, Powerwasher, etc. Especiallly a $30-$70k vehicle, nothing else but full syn with quality filter(no china).

So I scheduled a first oil change on my eco fwd and im at 2500 miles. Should I wait a bit longer to change the oil then? Thinking I may want to cancel my appt with the dealer and push it off for a bit more. Keep reading mixed opinions on when the first oil change should be.

 

[GPSMan]

I Used "regular" 0w20 M1 in my 2005 Escape Hybrid from 2006 til it got rear-ended in 2019, else I'd still be driving it.
It never used an ounce of oil in 235,000 miles.

I did a Blackstone Labs UOA a couple of times. At 16k they told me to go to 20k. At 20k they told me I could go to 22k.

I got into a habit of doing it at 15k. Mostly. But a couple at 20k.

A lot of people will say "Oil is cheap, change it more often." I agree oil is cheap. If you have fun doing it with beers and bros, I glad for you. Change it when you want to.

The science supports 20k intervals without the Extended Performance variant (which I don't think they had it 2006 or I probably would have used it.)

 

[Sliphorn]

I Used "regular" 0w20 M1 in my 2005 Escape Hybrid from 2006 til it got rear-ended in 2019, else I'd still be driving it.
It never used an ounce of oil in 235,000 miles.

I did a Blackstone Labs UOA a couple of times. At 16k they told me to go to 20k. At 20k they told me I could go to 22k.

I got into a habit of doing it at 15k. Mostly. But a couple at 20k.

A lot of people will say "Oil is cheap, change it more often." I agree oil is cheap. If you have fun doing it with beers and bros, I glad for you. Change it when you want to.

The science supports 20k intervals without the Extended Performance variant (which I don't think they had it 2006 or I probably would have used it.)

..
The Ford Duratec Atkinson cycle or non Atkinson cycle engines are known to be very easy on oil. Going down to 5 or 10 percent on the IOLM is not problematic for these engines.
..

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