I get about 29 in my Xlt FX4 eco boost and after I add the few parts I have on order I am expecting to hit about 32mpg with 300hp and it cost me about $500 for the parts
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First 2.5 Hybrid Oil Change @ 5400 miles [Video DIY & Oil Analysis]
Also I am running regular currently so those numbers are without running the high grade. From what the reports say if I move to 91/93 I should apparently get a few more so I'll test that after the part are in maybe I can hit 35
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Most modern engines that are primarily designed for max FE will spec 0w-20, as it has slightly less frictional drag on internal engine components, resulting incremental FE increases over a 5 or 10w oil.
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I wonder if this test vehicle is going to SavageGeese at some point. They're also based in Illinois
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Typical for a hybrid start-up in winter mornings. As i drive my Kia Niro a few miles it increases continually and after about 8-10 min of accelerating, it reaches my usual 'winter mpg's' of 45-47. I other seasons, I average 49-52 at same point. The colder the temps, it reduces over-all mpg's.
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I will have my oil changed about 1000-1500 miles & switch to 0w-20 MOBIL 1. Have used this oil since the 1980's with success. With proper oil change intervals my oil always remains amber-colored.
Do not remember where I read, but several years ago was concerned and researched. Bottom line was that contrary to common belief that the first number was the weight of some of the oil it was in fact an indicator of temperature range that the second number (actual oil weight) retained it's viscosity with a lower number indicating a broader range. (Ow20 has a wider temperature range than 5w20 which has a wider temperature range than 10w20). Search and see if you can find it. Maybe 0w20 vs 5w20 or ?????!
Maybe an oil expert is available??
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A piggy back chip from RaceChip, custom cold air ( making this one myself to save money) upgraded muffler that less restricted I rounded down total it cost me 539 and some change.
Race chip claims about 30hp give or take then I'm figuring about 10 each for the other two
Just remembered what triggered my search. Many years ago (1980's?) I had v8 that I used 10w30 in and after several years (7+?) wore out cam. Bottom line ice was (one of first?) designed for 20w (who knew?) and 10w30 oil would not circulate properly! = "DANG"!
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How many miles? Not years. I had 2 302s that hit 300k using SUPER TECH dino 10 30.......
Actual milage unknown as bought used but if I remember correctly around 90-110k miles. Not absolutely certain at this time (I had a brain bleed about 4.5 years ago and if I concentrate real hard on something I haven't thought about after the bleed it usually will come back to me within 3-4 weeks.) but it was almost (90+%) certainly my goldish colored BUICK (1969??(15%)) with the concave rear bumper. Mechanic definitely told me that (heads at least) required straight 20 oil.. I will go so far as to say that 80% chance I used 10w30 and 20% chance of straight 30. Sorry about all "what if", maybe in a month I can remember going in a particular place and asking for a particular oil change. As well as actually leaning on the exact car.....
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