Custom bed rails installed (DIY with parts from Home Depot)

[ctag]

Thank you for the details. It looks so crisp my brain immediately thought it must be anodized or something.

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[Little boy blue]

Tip / Option

If you get the full size (taller) unistrut at Home Depot and mount it holes up/ track down you will get ~20 tie down holes per side with nothing else to buy, nothing to ever lose.

Super cheap. Super functional.
Each of the 20 holes per side will take a tie down / ratchet strap hook.

Always in the right place.
Nothing to adjust.

Nice thinking, I never thought about doing it that way

 

[Tall Hobbit]

Tip / Option

If you get the full size (taller) unistrut at Home Depot and mount it holes up/ track down you will get ~20 tie down holes per side with nothing else to buy, nothing to ever lose.

Super cheap. Super functional.
Each of the 20 holes per side will take a tie down / ratchet strap hook.

Always in the right place.
Nothing to adjust.

This elegant approach really appeals to me in principle, but I have some questions first:

-have you done it/seen it done/have pics?

-I seem to recall a different thread where someone said it would reduce the effective strength of the tiedowns load -by about how much do you suppose? (the bed is aluminum to begin with and I wouldn't want too much tension to begin with so it isn't deformed)

-I expect you would protect the bed and materials by using 2 washers each fastening, between bed - strut - bolt head, correct?

-if all the pre-drilled holes of the strut were ovals, how would you prevent the strut from sliding longitudinally? By bolt tension alone?

-if one had access to a drill press (which I might) would it make more sense to rotate the strut, holes face-up and drill your own bolt holes? Going further, would it be even better to use a simple pre-drilled angled material, (Γ) where it could be rotated either way for install, using shorter bolts for a stronger fastening?

Appreciate your thoughts/experience.

 

[Mavster Mechanic]

This elegant approach really appeals to me in principle, but I have some questions first:

-have you done it/seen it done/have pics?

-I seem to recall a different thread where someone said it would reduce the effective strength of the tiedowns load -by about how much do you suppose? (the bed is aluminum to begin with and I wouldn't want too much tension to begin with so it isn't deformed)

-I expect you would protect the bed and materials by using 2 washers each fastening, between bed - strut - bolt head, correct?

-if all the pre-drilled holes of the strut were ovals, how would you prevent the strut from sliding longitudinally? By bolt tension alone?

-if one had access to a drill press (which I might) would it make more sense to rotate the strut, holes face-up and drill your own bolt holes? Going further, would it be even better to use a simple pre-drilled angled material, (Γ) where it could be rotated either way for install, using shorter bolts for a stronger fastening?

Appreciate your thoughts/experience.

The unistrut is stronger than the place you bolt it into. No worries there.

Bolts are very strong in tension.
You won't overpower the bolts.
Bolt tension with lock washers and it won't slide. If it did, it would slide by what? Half an inch? No worries there.
(but unlikely to slide at all)

I did this to a trailer I have with wood floor and I LOVE it.

I would do this without hesitation in my Maverick if it didn't come with the side rails. I may still. One sliding "hook" in the stock system is never enough. I added two more per side. Still is not enough sometimes.

I used carriage bolts so I could tighten from underneath with no spin. But you'll have threads. Same idea.

I probably put 300# to 400# of pull on these in six places at a time. They don't move at all. I have two along the sides and one down the middle.

 

[Tall Hobbit]

The unistrut is stronger than the place you bolt it into. No worries there.

Bolts are very strong in tension.
You won't overpower the bolts.
Bolt tension with lock washers and it won't slide. If it did, it would slide by what? Half an inch? No worries there.
(but unlikely to slide at all)

I did this to a trailer I have with wood floor and I LOVE it.

I would do this without hesitation in my Maverick if it didn't come with the side rails. I may still. One sliding "hook" in the stock system is never enough. I added two more per side. Still is not enough sometimes.

I used carriage bolts so I could tighten from underneath with no spin. But you'll have threads. Same idea.

I probably put 300# to 400# of pull on these in six places at a time. They don't move at all. I have two along the sides and one down the middle.

This is quite helpful, thanks! You deserve to see my setup once I hopefully make it happen.

 

[Johnkn]

L-track is also a popular option with many tie-down accessories. US Cargo Control is a great supplier. Available many places including Amazon.




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[billmarch]

Glad I found this thread. I looked at a few of these costing much more. Those look and function fantastic. Thanks for sharing. Looks like I'm off to Home Depot.

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