Buying and installing a Catch Can

[gjallen3]

Ok, I decided to install a catch can. There are a bunch out there that are not that expensive and claim to be universal. I went the less expensive route and the one I got only came with barbed fittings for a 3/8 hose. It is my understanding that the two OEM elbow fittings on the PCV hose that has to be removed and discarded don’t come off easily and essentially are destroyed in the process. My question is once those elbows are removed is there a barbed fitting for the new hose to clamp onto and what size hose will fit it? If not, I guess I could salvage the OEM elbows and leave them alone by just cutting the OEM hose off and installing the new hoses on those existing fittings but again, I’m not sure what size hose will fit them. I searched all of the threads on catch cans but didn’t find the answers to my question. Anyone who has installed one with insight would be greatly appreciated.

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[Tbone289]

What you have pictured is the "clean" side of the system, or breather side. Those are 5/8" connections. They are pictured below with the breather hose removed.

The connections to the PCV or "dirty" side of the system are between the intake manifold and the oil separator on the side of the block. Those are 3/8" connections. If you are going to only have one catch can, IMO, this is the side you should connect it to.

The lack of factory-style connections is why I chose not to go the universal route. UPR has Ford-style connectors for sale that you could add to your hoses.

 

[gjallen3]

What you have pictured is the "clean" side of the system, or breather side. Those are 5/8" connections. They are pictured below with the breather hose removed.

The connections to the PCV or "dirty" side of the system are between the intake manifold and the oil separator on the side of the block. Those are 3/8" connections. If you are going to only have one catch can, IMO, this is the side you should connect it to.

The lack of factory-style connections is why I chose not to go the universal route. UPR has Ford-style connectors for sale that you could add to your hoses.

Did you install two cans? One for clean and one for the dirty side? Most of the videos I’ve seen are installation on the clean side. I would think the dirty side installation is much more difficult.

 

[John Hoover]

I installed a UPR dirty side only, it's not a difficult install, watch UPR video. I have a 24. I recently removed it as I kept getting an oil/gas smell from the driver's side where it was mounted. I removed it and the smell has disappeared.
In warmer months I get nothing in the can, in the winter it fills quickly.
I am going to run without it for now.

 

[FHFR3Maverick]

I have been using the URP cans for both clean and dirty for 40,000 miles. I drain them every 1000 miles in the winter and 1500 -2000 miles in the summer. They are generally just over half full.

 

[Tbone289]

Did you install two cans? One for clean and one for the dirty side? Most of the videos I’ve seen are installation on the clean side. I would think the dirty side installation is much more difficult.

The clean side only works under boost, when the intake manifold is at positive pressure and there is high vacuum on the inlet side of the turbocharger. The dirty side works in off-boost situations when the crankcase is at positive pressure, in other words, when the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve is open. The PCV (dirty) side will catch considerably more than the breather (clean) side under normal driving conditions. Many people just install the clean side because it's easier, but it isn't very effective.

I have both UPR cans. The video below shows the installation to give you an idea of how easy the it is with factory-style connections.

 

[Tbone289]

I installed a UPR dirty side only, it's not a difficult install, watch UPR video. I have a 24. I recently removed it as I kept getting an oil/gas smell from the driver's side where it was mounted. I removed it and the smell has disappeared.
In warmer months I get nothing in the can, in the winter it fills quickly.
I am going to run without it for now.

Yes, it is unfortunate that the UPR hoses absorb the vapors and eventually have a strong odor of crankcase gasses. I replaced the Continental air hoses that UPR provides with PCV hoses and the odor is dramatically lower.

 

[John Hoover]

Thanks, I will look into that. UPR even replaced the hoses at no charge and the 2nd set did the same thing

 

[gjallen3]

Yes, it is unfortunate that the UPR hoses absorb the vapors and eventually have a strong odor of crankcase gasses. I replaced the Continental air hoses that UPR provides with PCV hoses and the odor is dramatically lower.

Is the catch can vented? I'm not sure if that would make a difference but it seems logical.

 

[John Hoover]

No, it's not a vented can.

 

[Tbone289]

Is the catch can vented? I'm not sure if that would make a difference but it seems logical.

There's no need to vent the system. It works with the normal circulation of crankcase gases. It isn't legal to have a vented crankcase system for on-road use.

 

[Tbone289]

Thanks, I will look into that. UPR even replaced the hoses at no charge and the 2nd set did the same thing

Yes, that's because they supply air hoses that aren't designed for PCV systems. Those hoses are "oil resistant" but not designed to carry crankcase gasses. Using PCV hoses will reduce the odor considerably but won't completely eliminate it unless you use an impenatrable material such as TPFE, possibly silicone, or the hard plastic hose material that Ford uses. That hard material wouldn't work well for a chassis-mounted solution such as this where flexible hose is required.

 

[gjallen3]

Yes, that's because they supply air hoses that aren't designed for PCV systems. Those hoses are "oil resistant" but not designed to carry crankcase gasses. Using PCV hoses will reduce the odor considerably but won't completely eliminate it unless you use an impenatrable material such as TPFE, possibly silicone, or the hard plastic hose material that Ford uses. That hard material wouldn't work well for a chassis-mounted solution such as this where flexible hose is required.

Thanks for all of your input. It has educated me a lot. The first thing learned is don't go cheap with the universal set up and trust the UPR products. However, reading further into the post and learning about the vapor smells coming from the continental hoses is making me think I should buy the fittings and hoses separately and make my own hoses instead of buying a whole kit with the fittings already installed. I see that you changed over to PCV hoses to cut down on crankcase gases, but do you think it possible that a gasoline hose would also work? I'm thinking I'll install one on the dirty side first then add the clean side later. It is a bit of a challenge getting to the hose clips going into the crankcase and manifold. You literally are blind and have to feel around. I just hope I don't mess it up by connecting to the wrong inlet/outlet.

 

[gjallen3]

Yes, it is unfortunate that the UPR hoses absorb the vapors and eventually have a strong odor of crankcase gasses. I replaced the Continental air hoses that UPR provides with PCV hoses and the odor is dramatically lower.

I read in another post where you recommended Gates part #27004 (3/8" hose) from Rock Auto. But what about the fittings? Did you buy them from UPR?

 

[Tbone289]

I read in another post where you recommended Gates part #27004 (3/8" hose) from Rock Auto. But what about the fittings? Did you buy them from UPR?

My UPR kit came with the fittings. I did use the gates hoses from Rock Auto to replace the ones from the kit. They are fuel/PCV hoses. 1/2" for dirty side (#27006), 5/8" for clean side (#27008). UPR does sell the fittings separately if I recall correctly.

EDIT: 1/2, not 3/8 for dirty side -- sorry for the confusion @gjallen3 !

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