19x reduction in deposits

[HenryFord]

Hasn't that proven to be false info? The new 2.0t is still direct injection-only IIRC

It has been confirmed.

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[Master Blaster]

If you use the specified-spec fuels and oils you will not have any buildup and don't need catch cans, additives, walnut blasting and all the other sales gimmicks. Unfortunately there are a lot of people using the cheapest crap fuel and oil instead, because that's what their daddy's old square-body used. Feed the engine what the manufacturer states, not what they corner garage has in their 50-gallon drum. Only use Top-tier fuel and oil meeting the 946/953 Ford spec and try to use synthetic-only brands.

 

[DWV]

Polyether amine (PEA) is a type of detergent additive used in fuel systems to clean and prevent the buildup of carbon deposits, especially in combustion chambers and injectors. It's known for its powerful cleaning action and can be found in various fuel additives and injector cleaners.

Personally I try to buy top tier fuel wherever possible, and use a bottle of techron in a tank of fuel that will mostly be used before an oil change.

Thanks much.

 

[commadorebob]

I buy whatever gas is most convenient. In my town, that is mostly Exxon or Marathon with the odd tank of Walmart. I don't add any additives and change my oil about every 6,000 miles.

I've never had an engine be the point of failure on any vehicle I've ever owned.

 

[zen_]

If you use the specified-spec fuels and oils you will not have any buildup and don't need catch cans, additives, walnut blasting and all the other sales gimmicks. Unfortunately there are a lot of people using the cheapest crap fuel and oil instead, because that's what their daddy's old square-body used. Feed the engine what the manufacturer states, not what they corner garage has in their 50-gallon drum. Only use Top-tier fuel and oil meeting the 946/953 Ford spec and try to use synthetic-only brands.

I would generally agree that many engine problems are rooted in manufacturers specifying oil change intervals that are way too long, or owners just not doing them. Pretty hard to go wrong with the oil itself since a $17 jug of supertech synthetic from walmart is actually very good quality, and there are no bad oils out there now, other than maybe some bulk dino oil from who knows where in the back of a shop put in an exotic engine with specific requirements.

The carbon build up from early GDI engines is real though, even when following the manufactures specs to the letter. When the valves are caked up with hardened deposits, the only solution is physically removing it. Manufacturers are definitely not adding port injection back for fun, or because they want to add cost and complexity just because.

PEA doing what it says to keep the fuel system clean is just something that seems to be harped on over and over from engineers, mechanics, and enthusiast.

 

[Master Blaster]

I buy whatever gas is most convenient. In my town, that is mostly Exxon or Marathon with the odd tank of Walmart. I don't add any additives and change my oil about every 6,000 miles.

I've never had an engine be the point of failure on any vehicle I've ever owned.

Exxon and Marathon are both qualified as TopTier fuels, but Walmart is not.

 

[Halo9x]

Sadly most of the cleaners out there that I have seen tested really haven't done the trick very well with caked up intake valves in GDI engines. The best method is likely a walnut hull blast to get the valves cleaned up.

There is another less expensive cleaning that was done by my dealer. It should be done about every 15K miles. The price was under $300. Not cheap but my dealer provides oil changes free for as long as I own my Maverick.

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