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youre absolutely correct. my bad. not sure why i thought it was agm

No worries, no accosting taken. My answer is because why not. The battery in the hybrid isn’t a “starting” battery in the traditional sense of high amp output to start the engine. I have only seen a max draw of 50 ish amps. I wanted to know what they dc-dc converter is capable of and this tells...

The answer is to use a higher amp rated BMS. After what I have learned, I recommend at least 200 amp continuous charge current and cells that can also do 200 continuous. Nothing I couldn’t find exactly how many amps were going into the battery while it’s charging. So I started with a simple one...

There probably are but I haven’t gotten into that just yet. That’s why I put a bms on the battery I built to make sure everything stays in safe ranges for the battery. Almost as a double safety net

Well folks, I did it. I replaced my (edited) Lead acid battery with a LiFePo4 battery. I haven’t see any posts of anyone else doing it but if you know any, I would love to read them and see what they found. I’m not going to tell you how to do it because I’m not convinced it won’t break...

I had the usb one for forscan but that’s hard to use while driving. App on a phone is much easier

Update: I have an OBD2 reader hooked up and have been driving a bit today. Battery temperature is staying at 104-105 degrees. Light hasn't returned. Ford rep only showed the under hood fire recall on my vehicle which I doubt has anything to do with this. I will continue monitoring and I will...

It hasn't been back on and no other signs of anything wrong in the driving that I have done since. I ordered a bluetooth obd2 reader and am going to see if I can monitor the battery temp through that to see if there are any abnormalities. If it doesn't come back on or if I don't see any...

I would like that. Definitely not for a sunday night read but I appreciate having technical information on my vehicles. I have some plans that could help with. I don't have a onedrive though, do I need that to access it?

I am always down for a rabbit hole. I have the USB scanner and Forscan with a license. My two current problems with that is we have crazy thunderstorms going right now with 80 mph winds and I dont have a laptop to run forscan so I literally have to move my whole desktop and run an extension cord...

Gotcha. Just didnt want to not have a vehicle for a long time

That's what I plan on doing. I just realized they were open today and I should have called but I assumed they would be closed all weekend. Something, something, making an a-- out of myself. I appreciate all your inputs

Easy fix as an software update? I really don't want to get into the waiting for parts at the shop for weeks like others are reporting. That's what I am thinking since its not triggering any overheating lights on anything else. Definitely not colder days for me though, Florida and high of 85...

I highly doubt its that as ive been keeping an eye on the coolant level. Also I park in the same spot all the time and haven't noticed any leaks.

Both chambers are within acceptable level and the one closer to the firewall is the less hot one for the electrical system. Thank you for the idea

I am not familiar with the heat exchanger issue, do you by chance have a quick link to that?

I already got it scanned and have the code in the title as well as the picture of the scanner with the code in the post. It is P0C4A. Hybrid battery coolant pump control. Looking online doesn't show anything for the Maverick but does show some stuff for the Volt. There is coolant in the overflow...

2023 Hybrid Mav with 8500 miles. The service light showed up with no notifications on the ford app, dealership said probably oil change due to miles. It disappeared before I could get it scanned. Then came back later the same day and had the ford app notification this time. When I got it...