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That’s what I’m thinking. I wonder if I unplug it if the converter will charge at all

Possibly, I’m not saying you’re wrong because I have no idea but I don’t think lead acid batteries need temp sensors. That’s partly what makes them so versatile. I’ll unplug it and follow it later

… didn’t read that part. Did the sitting for 8 hours with all doors locked for the BMS to relearn the battery. I don’t normally lock my car doors so I didn’t think it did the learned thing. I’ll do the battery sensor reset today

Sorry for second response but I just remembered this, there is a second smaller wire on negative terminal, I may consider unplugging that and seeing what happens later

I am currently sitting at 13.9 with the car running and 50 amps going into the battery. So full charge is definitely higher. LiFePo4 is almost always 14.6 for full charge. I have the battery BMS set to charge no more than 95% to allow for wiggle room

I mentioned earlier that the positive terminal had a 200 am fuse on it so it definitely isn’t meant to get all 265. The rest probably goes directly to auxiliary stuff for the hvb, think coolant pump, fan, sensors. That way as long as the HV system has power, it’s maintenance stuff is also...

It also fully charged right away instead of hanging out around 50% for a while so that probably fixed that which is nice

Left the car locked overnight for a minimum of 8 hours to let the BMS reset. Before I even got in the car, I checked and the battery voltage was at 13.18 volts. Didn’t have a notification that it was in deep sleep but used the app to unlock and it failed the first time because deep sleep but...

A lot of the extra room comes from ripping out the trim piece for the FITS mechanism. Would recommend anyone do that

Th That’s interesting. I don’t find this pulling everything possible. It starts at about 150 then slows to 120-130 and as it fills, it gets all the way down to just 10 amps pulled

It is not necessary to throttle if you have cells and a bms that can handle it. Most LiFePo4 cells are rated to 1C that means if it’s 100 AH cell, you can charge it up to 100 amps. You can size up the cells to 200 AH or use cells that charge at 2C. Then just have to find a BMS that can also...

Oh yeah, fire proof case for sure for long term use cases also to help prevent shorting. But right now I prioritize being able to easily take it out and apart again if I need to change something. I will say it hasn’t moved much even with my minimal securing though I don’t expect that to work if...

I avoided posting pictures of it in because it is very temporary while I’m tinkering with it. It literally looks like a bomb with wires and blinking lights everywhere. Also only tied down with some cord. I assumed most people here wouldn’t know much about building a battery pack like that. Is...

I don’t think the full 265 amps goes to the battery though. I haven’t seen anything close to that and the battery has a 200 amp fuse on its positive terminal

good idea

didnt see my first post so thought it didnt go th didnt think my first post went through. It is obd2 port plugged in and is supposed to shut off when voltage gets too low. my guess is thats lower than the cutoff for the deep sleep

probably will eventually. i kept the original but I also have extra loads that cause problems. I have a dash cam that runs 24/7 as a parasitic load. Im not super concerned right now because it still starts everytime and I don't remote start it.

ummm they have to prove it caused a problem. but the definitely will fight it if i bring it in

also that, titanium was my fusion. this one is a lariat. You have a great eye for detail

I haven't had it inspected and I do drive it every day with plenty of time to charge the battery. This wasn't necessarily to solve that, though if it did, cool. more so just for the information and fun. Lithium ion is a good choice but lithium iron is typically regarded as safer and when I'm...