Racked and Ready! (for canoe transport)

[Whlsdn]

Is there a reason you didn't just center the 12' canoe on the Elevate racks? For a 12' length, it seems like the bed extender is totally unnecessary. I put a 12.5' kayak, a 12' SUP, and a 14' kayak all on top of my Elevate racks (centered). When I carry the SUP, I do have to remove the whip antenna to clear, but everything fits otherwise.

I was thinking I had explained all that, but now that I've gone back I recall that I did my explaining in my video narrative, which I was unable to upload. Whoops. So, yes, I had reasons, whether they're good or bad. And thanks for asking that question. Maybe my answer will help my set-up sound more sensible than it appears... especially to younger or stronger or less life-worn Maverick owners than I.

To do as you describe (very sensible choice for most, I'd guess) I'd have to raise the Elevate racks to at least the middle height, which at 5'8" and shrinking, is a pain in various zones. I'm 80 with bad back and messed up left shoulder. I'm healthy enough to wish to get back into canoeing, but balancing even a lightweight 12' canoe over my head to gently load it by myself is not fun... and I'm in this for fun as well as a bit of entertaining exercise. (I don't expect to portage anywhere I cannot use a dolly for one end of the canoe.) Also, I added a roller to the top of the extender, which makes setting the tip of the canoe on and pushing it forward - to where I can tip it down onto the 2 racks at their lowest setting - pretty simple. I "pop out" the roller once the canoe is loaded, then tie it down.

The racks at their middle setting would require a higher lift with more balancing; plus pushing the canoe forward with no roller increases wear and tear on me, the canoe's gunnel/gunwhale, and the racks' grippy rubber insert, none of which appeal to me. What would have been easy -- lift and set forward, lift and set forward, etc -- 30 years ago just is not anymore.

So, while after trying this for a while, I may find I need to raise everything and move the canoe forward and above the cab another 2 or 3 feet., I suspect the receiver support will just be shortened to accommodate that more. Because, with additional height, I will definitely need its roller for loading!

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[tom_tucker]

You're an inspiration at 80 y.o. but that looks painful. Get a 'lil boat trailer and you can just load it up at waist height?

 

[Whlsdn]

Now you've got me interested in what brand of Prospector Canoe you've got there.
My 17' doesn't have to stick out so far. I like being able to see the bow above the hood so that I know it hasn't blown off.

It's a Nature Bound Solo (11'10") I recently bought used from a Denver canoe dealer. Most of his stock consists of $3K + choices, but this one fit my budget... and my size target, though slightly on the heavy side of his typical items. It is far easier for me to manage alone than the 17' classic old Grumman aluminum I just gave to a friend to gift to an important 13-yr-old for his birthday. Well, until I get it in the water, anyway. Having just bought it last year and reconditioned it, I was quickly recalling my teenage skills as a camp canoe instructor to juvenile newbies. But this little canoe is making me refine my performance a bit.

BTW, I'm an avid amateur photographer, and I'm aiming at getting back to fishing after ceasing a few years ago. Hopefully, I'll do some of each from this canoe.

 

[Whlsdn]

You're an inspiration at 80 y.o. but that looks painful. Get a 'lil boat trailer and you can just load it up at waist height?

A BIG trailer is all I had available to get restarted canoeing. And while trailering with a proper size trailer would indeed have its appeal, my ultimate goal is to haul the canoe on the Maverick when we are flat-towing it behind our new little motorhome. We recently went from the big Class A diesel pusher category to about as small as one can find in the Class C category. Thus the light-weight Maverick now to ago along with the new RV.

 

[Whlsdn]

I was thinking the wheels on the rack were there incase you did a hard acceleration and they prevented you from doing a wheelie!!

When I upgrade to a Tremor, maybe I'll try that out!

 

[Bilbo_B]

A BIG trailer is all I had available to get restarted canoeing. And while trailering with a proper size trailer would indeed have its appeal, my ultimate goal is to haul the canoe on the Maverick when we are flat-towing it behind our new little motorhome. We recently went from the big Class A diesel pusher category to about as small as one can find in the Class C category. Thus the light-weight Maverick now to ago along with the new RV.

Well, the Grummans have their place on Boy Scout trips banging down rocky rivers but they aren't as good for wilderness tripping where weight on portages and glide are more important. Your's is in the style of the Chestnut Prospector-type of design which invokes Boll Mason's inspiration.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bill_Mason

Nice setup. I think that getting your canoe on and off isn't going to be much of a problem. I'm sure that you've been investigating the proper procedures for flat towing the Hybrid.

 

[Sovande]

This is my 17 foot kayak setup. It's balanced on the Thule Dockgrip that cradles the kayak which helps it from twisting left or right and I'm using the Elevate rack. It does stick out about 4' from the rear bumper so I attach a red flag at the end which is not shown here.

What is the benefit to the tall bed racks vs roof mounted cargo racks? Seems like roof mounted would be the easiest and cheapest and results in far less overhang?

 

[Whlsdn]

Well, the Grummans have their place on Boy Scout trips banging down rocky rivers but they aren't as good for wilderness tripping where weight on portages and glide are more important. Your's is in the style of the Chestnut Prospector-type of design which invokes Boll Mason's inspiration.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bill_Mason

Nice setup. I think that getting your canoe on and off isn't going to be much of a problem. I'm sure that you've been investigating the proper procedures for flat towing the Hybrid.

Yep, we made a CO to TN to MI and back 3500 mile trip in June towing the Mav. Wish I'd had the canoe then!

 

[Whlsdn]

What is the benefit to the tall bed racks vs roof mounted cargo racks? Seems like roof mounted would be the easiest and cheapest and results in far less overhang?

Check my reply to billbillw at the top of page 2. Good or not, that's my answer.

 

[Ford Motor Company]

I recently gave my 17' Grumman canoe to a friend to gift as a 13th birthday present to the son of really generous friends. (The boy AND his closest friends were thrilled!) I needed to down-size to a 12 footer that I can carry on a rack on our Maverick, even when it is being towed behind our little Gemini 23TE (Ford Transit 350HD AWD-based) motorhome. I selected an Elevate rack from Real Truck and ordered a Flint Hills Bed Extender from ETrailer.com. I did a little customizing too.

I videoed my set-up just so I could duplicate it next time. However, as I got it started I decided I should narrate it in case it might help anyone else doing something similar. Sorry, but it was NOT a rehearsed script by any means. OOPS! I see the video is too big to load here. I may YouTube it and link it here later if anyone cares to see it. For now, here are some photos of the set-up.

PS: The wheels sticking out back in the last photo will be removed when traveling. They're inserted to help me move the intact extended rack (including that beast of a receiver shaft) to a storage spot at home in between trips.

PS #2: Billbillw raised a question which caused me to realize that I had left out some important info explaining my need for this design. In my narrative with the video I tried to attach here, I did share it, but then forgot that info was excluded when the video file was too big to load... or whatever. So I've added those details in my reply to Billbillw. Sorry for my lack of clarity!

Sweet transport set up! Thanks for sharing this with us.

 

[Bear]

What is the benefit to the tall bed racks vs roof mounted cargo racks? Seems like roof mounted would be the easiest and cheapest and results in far less overhang?

You are correct, it would be cheaper to get roof racks. I personally didn't like how the roof clips to the inside of the door jam to hold down the rack. I'm sure it would be safe & sturdy I just didn't want to deal with it. Also, putting my kayak on a roof rack raises it higher than I like. The bed racks keeps it lower. Also, it's easier to put my kayak on by myself.

 

[TheSEARCH]

You are correct, it would be cheaper to get roof racks. I personally didn't like how the roof clips to the inside of the door jam to hold down the rack. I'm sure it would be safe & sturdy I just didn't want to deal with it. Also, putting my kayak on a roof rack raises it higher than I like. The bed racks keeps it lower. Also, it's easier to put my kayak on by myself.

I have both cab bars and ONE rear cross bar see picture above in my other post. . Problem with JUST bars on cab is you CAN NOT load from the rear. Just to far away from back of truck to reach and that is with whats called a Thule slip stream that slides a roller back about 2 feet from rear cross bar on cab. I tried it cant be done. So if ONLY cab cross bars have to load from side.

 

[Bear]

I have both cab bars and ONE rear cross bar see picture above in my other post. . Problem with JUST bars on cab is you CAN NOT load from the rear. Just to far away from back of truck to reach and that is with whats called a Thule slip stream that slides a roller back about 2 feet from rear cross bar on cab. I tried it cant be done. So if ONLY cab cross bars have to load from side.

Actually, I do load my 17' wood kayak from the rear all by myself. I have the Yakima HandRoll on the right side of the Elevate rack. I lift the front of the kayak onto the Yakima HandRoll, pickup the rear kayak and push it up onto the rack. I also have a foam pad on the bars and I placed a wide thick foam cushion on the roof for the kayak to land on when I push it up from the rear. Once it's on top of the rack I move the kayak to the left side onto my Thule DockGlide.

 

[TheSEARCH]

Actually, I do load my 17' wood kayak from the rear all by myself. I have the Yakima HandRoll on the right side of the Elevate rack. I lift the front of the kayak onto the Yakima HandRoll, pickup the rear kayak and push it up onto the rack. I also have a foam pad on the bars and I placed a wide thick foam cushion on the roof for the kayak to land on when I push it up from the rear. Once it's on top of the rack I move the kayak to the left side onto my Thule DockGlide.

I meant if you had NO rear cross bars. Just Cab clip on roof bars. Yes I load my 16 and 17 long kayaks from rear. I have both cab bars and one rear bar I made myself with Tnutz aluminum.

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