Polish before ceramic coat, or not?

[Optimus]

Due to the thin paint on our trucks, I am concerned about whether or not I should even bother with trying to polish the whole truck first or not. The last thing I want to due is burn through the clear coat. Even if I don’t burn through (yet), I’ll make it that much thinner…. Our ‘23 Hybrid is new with 400 miles on it so far (mainly to get it home), and I don’t see anything in terms of scratches or chips yet. There may be a stray swirl mark or two but not much. I’ve read that spot polishing can look bad with ceramics due to those becoming extra shiny spots? This isn’t a $100k vehicle with custom paint, so “it is what it is.” Not sure how daring I want to be trying to get it show car perfect—and risk burning through paint.


Some background. This will be my first attempt at Ceramic coating a vehicle, but I have done light body work over the years, including color sanding an entire vehicle, and am no stranger to turning a wrench (including pulling motors etc….). I am used to being self-sufficient and diving right in (with lots of research first).

I will be doing Gtechniq EXOv5+Crystal Serum Light, plus their HALO on my PPF’d front end. I have also purchased Gtechniq car wash, Panel Wipe, Iron Remover, Chemical Guys light duty clay bar, Adams Mega Foam wash, and various types of microfiber rags and applicators as recommended for each product.

i’m going all in! Never had anything new before and I’m super-stoked to pimp my ride!

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[Yellow318]

Also my first time ceramic coating, as well as my first new vehicle. Same boat here. So I didn’t polish mine since the truck is brand new. I did however use a clay mitt and iron removed before I started coating it. Just washed it, detailed it heavily then the applied Gyeon Evo One to the vehicle. Watched a ton of how tos and researched heavily. It was an all day process with me. Result turned out great in my opinion but time will tell I suppose

 

[Optimus]

Good to know! The perfectionist in me wants to sand down all the factory orange peel too, but NOPE! Not going anywhere near to that extent on this reportedly thin factory paint. I do not have a paint thickness gauge either.

 

[Montana]

I have not done any ceramic coating, but I have done clay bars and iron remover as well. I honestly can't remember the last vehicle I've ever polished, but I'm pretty sure it was chrome related too lol. I just use carnauba based quick waxes now. I'd be worried about the thin paint as well. Already so many little spots with chips and scratches the same as my Escape was. TBH, I've kind of given up exerting too much effort where I live in Montana. Road debris, bugs, and winter crap would chew through the ceramic coating just as quick as anything else and for the effort, I'll just quick wax and dry with my big ol harbor freight drying towels then call it good. I don't even bother with tire shine anymore.

 

[Edge Haley]

Have done 5 ceramic applications. It is NOT AT ALL that COMPLICATED to CERAMIC COAT A VEHICLE. Just follow the instructions on box or bottle. The worst thing you could do is wax a car before doing the ceramic coating.

I first decontaminated paint, then claybarred it. Most claybar packages have decontaminated soap in the box. Then follow the ceramic coating instructions.

The Maverick is a fairly cheap paint job. Claybarring takes care off most any defective paint surfaces like orange peel. Many pro's feel the new Maverick does not need claybarred, but it only took 1 1/2 hours. I felt it was worth the work. Maverick is sort of an economy vehicle, I borrowed a paint depth meter and the Maverick has a VERY VERY thin paint job...did not think a claybar was needed until a professional explained to me the defects in a minimal paint job...and how effective a claybar would be...The Professional was definitely RIGHT. If you claybar you will see a very noticeable difference in how slick the paint surface is...

Decontamination takes off impurities like railroad car iron dust.
Claybar smooths out paint. Prepares a slick surface for the ceramic coating to stick to.
Ceramic is not that much more complicated than a wax job...it's just a semi-permanent wax job...that lasts 4, 5 to 6 years...but needs a lot of polishing when applied.
Polish after applying the ceramic coating. (Critical to use very good microfiber polishing rags)
Can't get the Ceramic coating wet for at least 24 hours.

Porsche to the left was ceramic coated 5 years ago and still beads like glass.

It took me 7 hours to do all the above steps to the Maverick, will need a ladder for roof & hood.

 

[Reece @ DI]

Due to the thin paint on our trucks, I am concerned about whether or not I should even bother with trying to polish the whole truck first or not. The last thing I want to due is burn through the clear coat. Even if I don’t burn through (yet), I’ll make it that much thinner…. Our ‘23 Hybrid is new with 400 miles on it so far (mainly to get it home), and I don’t see anything in terms of scratches or chips yet. There may be a stray swirl mark or two but not much. I’ve read that spot polishing can look bad with ceramics due to those becoming extra shiny spots? This isn’t a $100k vehicle with custom paint, so “it is what it is.” Not sure how daring I want to be trying to get it show car perfect—and risk burning through paint.


Some background. This will be my first attempt at Ceramic coating a vehicle, but I have done light body work over the years, including color sanding an entire vehicle, and am no stranger to turning a wrench (including pulling motors etc….). I am used to being self-sufficient and diving right in (with lots of research first).

I will be doing Gtechniq EXOv5+Crystal Serum Light, plus their HALO on my PPF’d front end. I have also purchased Gtechniq car wash, Panel Wipe, Iron Remover, Chemical Guys light duty clay bar, Adams Mega Foam wash, and various types of microfiber rags and applicators as recommended for each product.

i’m going all in! Never had anything new before and I’m super-stoked to pimp my ride!

I honestly think the "thin paint" thing is overblown. When I received my Hybrid XLT last year in Carb Grey I measured the paint with our highline paint meter and everything measured out well within average thicknesses. I personally would avoid hammering down any orange peel and while many say you "need" to polish before coating is lying.

The key to proper coating application is thoroughly decontaminating the paint and removing all oils from the surface with a proper paint prep product (i.e. Gtechniq Panel Wipe, CarPro Eraser, Gyeon Prep, etc.). Once fully clean you are all set to apply the coating without having any issues with anything interfering with it adhering or curing. One tip I like to give is also make sure you are using high end microfiber towels and to use many/flipping to new sides often. If applied too thick in areas, coatings can show streaks. Keep application thin and remove all residues to avoid this.

After application, keep the coating out of the rain or from getting wet for at least 24 hrs and you should be all set!

 

[Reece @ DI]

WOW! Have done 5 ceramic application. It is NOT AT ALL that to COMPLICATED CERAMIC COAT A VEHICLE. Just follow the instructions on box or bottle. The worst thing you could do is wax a car before doing the ceramic coating.

I first decontaminated paint, then claybarred it. Then followed the ceramic coating instructions. Most claybar packages have decontaminated soap in the box.

The Maverick is a fairly cheap paint job. Claybarrng takes care of most any defective paint surfaces like orange peel.

Decontamination takes off impurities like railroad car iron dust.
Claybar smooths out paint. Prepares a slick surface for the ceramic coating to stick to.
Cermaic is not that much more complicated than a wax job...it's just a semi-permanent wax job...that lasts 4, 5 to 6 years.
Polish after applying the ceramic coating. (Critical to use very good microfiber polishing rags)
Can't get the Ceramic coating wet for at least 24 hours.

Porsche to the left was ceramic coated 5 years ago and still beads like glass.

It took me 7 hours to do all the above steps to the Maverick, will need a ladder for roof & hood.

Some good tips here, but a few points I wanted to clarify as they could cause some confusion for OP"

- Clay does not smooth out paint or remove imperfections. Clay bars pull embedded contamination from the pores of the clearcoat and anything your shampoo, tar remover, etc. can not remove during your standard wash.
- Polishing is where you remove imperfections from the surface. Technically you are not even "removing" them, but smoothing out the edges of the imperfection (swirl, scratch, etc.) causing light to not reflect on that imperfection, thus providing you with a more optically clear surface.
- The key to coating applications is a thorough decon and prepping with a product like Gtechniq Panel Wipe to remove any residue, oils, etc. on the surface that can cause issues to the coating adhering correctly. It is key to use a product like this as a clay bar is not the last step before coating applications as the lube used when claying can cause issues if oils from it are not removed. Prep time takes more time than with traditional waxes and sealants, but when done correctly coatings will protect for much longer.

 

[mav_kev]

Personally I wouldn't (didn't) polish before my ceramic coat, because my Mav is going to end up with swirls and scratches soon enough anyway. I suppose polishing first is the "right" way, but it's never going to a concourse show. However, take the time for proper prep (decon, prep wipe, follow the instructions) - and yes, good quality microfibers.

I got in my head about the process too, but it's really pretty straightforward. Apply to a section, wait the correct amount of time, then wipe off. Good luck!

 

[Optimus]

Thanks for all the info! Regarding microfiber for coating removal, I picked up The Rag Company “Pearl” towels for this, as that’s what Gtechiq tech support recommended. A shorter knit fuzz and a tackier towel will pick up excess residue easier. Gtechniq does have their own MF1 towel for this purpose, but they are having some sort of stock or supplier issue and are out.

Not quite understanding how a towel will level a product that otherwise hardens to glass and is otherwise about 1 micron thick, but I guess I will learn! I’m assuming much of it has to do with wiping off runs before they harden.

 

[Edge Haley]

Thanks for all the info! Regarding microfiber for coating removal, I picked up The Rag Company “Pearl” towels for this, as that’s what Gtechiq tech support recommended. A shorter knit fuzz and a tackier towel will pick up excess residue easier. Gtechniq does have their own MF1 towel for this purpose, but they are having some sort of stock or supplier issue and are out.

Not quite understanding how a towel will level a product that otherwise hardens to glass and is otherwise about 1 micron thick, but I guess I will learn! I’m assuming much of it has to do with wiping off runs before they harden.

As mentioned - follow the instruction on your Ceramic chemical box/bottle. They can vary. The Claybar's main purpose is to get off any residue, etc than is on your paint...on a new car the dealer "usually" applies a iron removal soap to get the train railroad car dust off the paint...

Claybaring is a first step and a separate step from ceramic coating...to just prep/clean the paint before ceramic coating is applied. My bottle instructions were to apply only 2 or 3 square feet of ceramic at a time all over the vehicle, and then buff/polish off same sections all at once. "The Rag Shop" is the best...most don't know but there are a 1/2 dozen type of microfiber rags...you want the version for "polishing" for polishing the ceramic.

As mentioned I've done 5 cars 2 motorcycles and I find life is simpler to buy the "Ceramic Coating Kits" that include all the chemicals, application pads, microfiber polishing rags, etc all in one box and detail instructions on application. It is not hard, just follow instructions.

 

[El_cabby]

I hear about all this thin paint job. I would personally clay vehicle. Then apply a hand polish to bring out shine and then seal everything in with ceramic coating

 

[Optimus]

As mentioned - follow the instruction on your Ceramic chemical box/bottle. They can vary. The Claybar's main purpose is to get off any residue, etc than is on your paint...on a new car the dealer "usually" applies a iron removal soap to get the train railroad car dust off the paint...

Claybaring is a first step and a separate step from ceramic coating...to just prep/clean the paint before ceramic coating is applied. My bottle instructions were to apply only 2 or 3 square feet of ceramic at a time all over the vehicle, and then buff/polish off same sections all at once. "The Rag Shop" is the best...most don't know but there are a 1/2 dozen type of microfiber rags...you want the version for "polishing" for polishing the ceramic.

Yup, I will be clay baring via the Chemical Brothers “light” style blue bar, which came with detailing liquid for the clay to gli on. I also bought a few types of microfiber, including The Rag Company’s Pearl:

The Rag Company - The Edgeless Pearl - Professional Microfiber Detailing Towel for Ceramic Coating Leveling and Sealant Removal, Scratch-Free with No Tags, 320gsm, 16in x 16in, Orange (12-Pack) https://a.co/d/2tNEjHD

Gtechniq recommended it for ceramic residue removal. I ordered another type of microfiber too, though that was meant more washing/drying purchases for car washes.

I tried to buy a kit, but I only found their glass keep as something considered complete. The rest of it I’ve had to piece together. The last item I am waiting to receive is literally the Pearl Microfiber coating removal microfibers. I suppose I could de-iron, clay-bar, etc…. in the meantime but I don’t want the truck sitting several days waiting for the final step of the actual ceramic coating.

 

[Edge Haley]

Yup, I will be clay baring via the Chemical Brothers “light” style blue bar, which came with detailing liquid for the clay to gli on. I also bought a few types of microfiber, including The Rag Company’s Pearl:

The Rag Company - The Edgeless Pearl - Professional Microfiber Detailing Towel for Ceramic Coating Leveling and Sealant Removal, Scratch-Free with No Tags, 320gsm, 16in x 16in, Orange (12-Pack) https://a.co/d/2tNEjHD

Gtechniq recommended it for ceramic residue removal. I ordered another type of microfiber too, though that was meant more washing/drying purchases for car washes.

I tried to buy a kit, but I only found their glass keep as something considered complete. The rest of it I’ve had to piece together. The last item I am waiting to receive is literally the Pearl Microfiber coating removal microfibers. I suppose I could de-iron, clay-bar, etc…. in the meantime but I don’t want the truck sitting several days waiting for the final step of the actual ceramic coating.

Nope - truck sitting there will collect dust, etc.

 

[Ren E Gade]

Thanks for all the info! Regarding microfiber for coating removal, I picked up The Rag Company “Pearl” towels for this, ....

Not quite understanding how a towel will level a product that otherwise hardens to glass and is otherwise about 1 micron thick, but I guess I will learn! I’m assuming much of it has to do with wiping off runs before they harden.

No you don't need to polish if you are happy with the finish now. Polishing will ensure there are no dealer installed sealants but you can also use Meguiar's Wash plus (have to inport) or Kamikaze KMKZ Cleansing. Pearl for the level, Creature for the buff. You will be removing the carrier product and excess coating, failure to do a good job will result in hazy or milky spots... pay attention to to overlaps, handles, mirrors etc where you might squeeze product out of your applicator.

 

[Exranger]

I agree with most here, good wash, a good cleaning with clay and then apply your product. If you have future paint issues, like hitting the side of your truck with the garbage can, I used swirl remover by hand to correct the mark and cleaned and reapply product. For this truck I purchased a clay-microfiber just to try cause it seemed neat and worked well. Fine version $50 at the detail supply store.

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