Maverick accessories, mods, how-to's on my Maverick

[Barracuda340]

I am loving this thread, thank you for all the information!

I got wheels and tires from Tire Rack and they sent a Tire & Wheel Owners Manual. They also recommend using the anti seize around the axle hubs but they say (in bold print) " Do not apply anti-seize compound to the lug hardware or studs".

It seems to me you should put it on the lug studs like you do?

Putting a small amount on the lug studs is fine. Will not hurt anything. I have been using anti seize on my vehicle wheel studs for years. Been messing with cars since I was 15. First project car at 15 was a 68 Dodge Charger 383. I'm 54 years young as of today. What it prevents is rust on the studs, and spalling of the studs when you get some joker using an impact gun taking the lug nuts off or putting them on. I use an impact gun only to remove them. I hand install with a breaker bar. I tighten them tight to where I can get them off. I would always recommend loosening and retightening them when you get your new vehicle anyways. Sometimes they are so tight from the get go that your crappy jack and tire iron in the vehicle will not get them to loosen.

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[MikeyG]

Got these custom fit trash cans from a fellow truck club member. Since these are 3D printed, and are now free on thingiverse for anybody who wants them, the price will vary if you have to pay someone to print them for you. The rear trash can/cup holder is a collaboration between he and I designing it. This is perfect for XL owners that dont have that setup in the rear seat. No tools, drop in place/done. 1 minute install

Where can I get that trash can/cup holder?

Is there anyone that is making that trash can/ cup holder?

 

[Barracuda340]

Is there anyone that is making that trash can/ cup holder?

They are now on thingiverse. Print em up, or find someebody to print them for you.

 

[Barracuda340]

EcoBoost engines with the direct injection setup require an oil catch can, actually 2 of them. I am working on a mount bracket out .100" thick 6061- T6 aluminum. A fellow truck club member did a similar thing with the same metal and then claimed the aluminum fatigued out and cracked. I may just prove it out for parts location with the aluminum as its easier to cut , then make a duplicate in 12 or 14 gage steel plate. I dug through my Dodge Daytona Shelby parts and hardware collection and found longer 10mm fender bolts I will need to add this bracket. I grabbed 2 more of these to put aside in the box of parts that's growing for the future XL EcoBoost we are getting for my wife. Gonna sandblast the bolts and paint them silver.

 

[Barracuda340]

More stuff coming along with reviews, prices, and ease or difficulty of assembly. Note the pile on the project car decklid.

 

[Barracuda340]

Also a couple years ago a coworker of my wife had a V6 camaro K&N cold air intake that was almost new in the box. They didnt want it as they sold the car. I tried to resell it over and over the last 5 years. I am now going to repurpose it and make a cold air intake for my Maverick out of it. The chromed tube is going in the scrap trailer, along with the metal baffle after I use it to template out the hole for the filter flange, and make a new baffle out of steel or aluminum sheet.

 

[Buyerfind]

Center console storage bins. Amazon $20. Fantastic idea, and allows for storage on 3 levels. There is approx 2" of space in the console below the bottom drop in bin. Several sellers, probably all from same injection moulding plant in china. Several different colors of pin stripes for the rubber pads this comes with. I went with the blue. No tools required, open box, and drop in place. 1 minute open box and install

I bought this but had to return it twice because kept arriving with broken tabs. The organizer is boxed with no packing and placed into a non-padded shipping bag. Finally, the third one I received was delivered unharmed. I elected for the all-black rubber pads vs. pads that were color-lined.

I am liking the organizer and would buy again just knowing that a return or two may be in the works to get a working product.

 

[G19Tony]

I like this thread. You said you work at an airport. Are you an A&P? I see the work of a very experienced A&P. Well done sir.

 

[Pickles]

Gator SFX trifold cover. About $235 purchased at Realtruck.com. price may have gone up since I ordered it a number of months ago, however this is one of the easiest things to install. No tools are required to put it on. I found that it was easiest to center it, and loosely install the forward mounting clamps to the underside of the bed rails. Then unfold the cover, and square it up on the truck bed.

Once squared up and even on both sides, tighten down the fwd mounting clamps, and attach the safety mounting clamps. Latch the spring loaded rear hooks, and it's done. It comes with some hollow weatherstripping that's peel n stick for sealing the tailgate shut when closed. I did not install this yet. Instructions werent very clear on that. The hold down clamps, and safety clamps use the pinch weld seam on the truck bed to hold it on, as well as the rear spring loaded hooks. The instruction pix are pretty clear on this aspect. It mentioned using a utility knife to cut away excess plastic for the clamps, but I found that to not be necessary.

This install took me 15-20 minutes, and was super easy to do.

I have the same cover. Do you know what the second set of hold down clips are for? lol the ones on the lanyards

 

[Barracuda340]

I have the same cover. Do you know what the second set of hold down clips are for? lol the ones on the lanyards

If they are the forward ones, You clamp those onto the bed pinch weld on both sides as a safety in case the forward clamps let go when your driving. It will likely never happen, but this keeps the company lawyers happy.

 

[Barracuda340]

Custom mount brackets for my dual oil seperator cans. I have an ecoboost, and this is a necessity. I will be making 1 more of these for the future FWD ecoboost my wife is getting next year. I started with manilla folder to get a rough shape i could cut with scissors to transfer to aluminum.

The aluminum is the prototype piece where I will adjust holes, trim, and make it fit. Its stiff enough to figure out placement of pieces, and easy to drill. Once satisfied with positioning, it's time for machinest dye, and transfer to 1/16" steel sheet which is thick enough for this application.

I'm still tinkering. I have longer metric bolts, and have to figure out spacing. I also want to use countersunk screws to hold the catch cans onto the bracket. Also have to figure out spacers needed for the install.

 

[Barracuda340]

Figured out the hardware situation, also decided on countersunk mounting hardware. Gonna make the second one now for wifes future ecoboost. Might as well be ready.

 

[Barracuda340]

One of my many projects is the bed lighting. I have had this kit in its box for about 7 months now waiting on this truck. This is a pretty much plug n play kit. Your wiring is red to red, black to black on the Flex bed plug in. $27 from evilbay. The hardest part is going to be feeding the wires into the bed box to hide them.

Of course its 40° out now and the LEDs wont uncoil. So my eureka moment was to tape the strips up on the wall in my dining room. I am hoping that the warmth of the house will help straighten them out over the next few days.

 

[Barracuda340]

Another cool thing I made to showcase my love of shooting sports, and cars were these valve stem covers. Aluminum shell casings cannot be reloaded. As such I usually leave em there since they are one time use. I decided to take a handful home from the range last time I went in for handgun practice.

 

[OleKennyRoy]

Putting a small amount on the lug studs is fine. Will not hurt anything. I have been using anti seize on my vehicle wheel studs for years. Been messing with cars since I was 15. First project car at 15 was a 68 Dodge Charger 383. I'm 54 years young as of today. What it prevents is rust on the studs, and spalling of the studs when you get some joker using an impact gun taking the lug nuts off or putting them on. I use an impact gun only to remove them. I hand install with a breaker bar. I tighten them tight to where I can get them off. I would always recommend loosening and retightening them when you get your new vehicle anyways. Sometimes they are so tight from the get go that your crappy jack and tire iron in the vehicle will not get them to loosen.

The issue with using anti-seize, or any lubricant for that matter, on wheel studs is that it changes the coefficient of friction. When you use a lubricant, the torque required to acheive the required axial torque is much lower. It is simpler from a manufacturing standpoint to standardize and give a value for "clean, dry threads".

If you want to play around with the calculator, here you go:

Torque Calculator with lube

I try not to allow anyone else to do maintenance on my vehicles, but this past year, I had lots of time constraints due to work. Shops should certainly be using "torque sticks" if using an impact wrench, and a calibrated torque wrench to install wheels.

I know my neighbors certainly watched me through the window thinking I was a weirdo when I wirebrushed all of the surface rust off the rotors and gave the faying surfaces a coat of rust inhibiting spray every time I rotated my tires.

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