Ford Maverick Catch Can Oil Separator Installation (IMO Best Practice)

[MavDave]

Well, it seems to me that for about $50 total and a little work it is possible to make a better setup. I am definitely doing this on mine ASAP. I also want to see how beneficial it will be for my wifes wrx. But if I am not mistaken hers has port and direct injection. Thanks for the information

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[Barracuda340]

The catch cans i ordered can be plugged with an included threaded on cap. They can be made to work either way. The engine is an ecoboost. I see in your picture the one port, but where is the other lower port located? Can you show a pic or 2 from your actual engine? Like I said the top side with the valve cover vent hose is easy for me. BTW, where did you get the 45° fittings? As far as hoses, I plan on using regular nylon cord reinforced type vent hose with a covering over it. Theres not any serious pressure in this type of setup.

 

[CubanRedneck]

The catch cans i ordered can be plugged with an included threaded on cap. They can be made to work either way. The engine is an ecoboost. I see in your picture the one port, but where is the other lower port located? Can you show a pic or 2 from your actual engine? Like I said the top side with the valve cover vent hose is easy for me. BTW, where did you get the 45° fittings? As far as hoses, I plan on using regular nylon cord reinforced type vent hose with a covering over it. Theres not any serious pressure in this type of setup.

Once you find one end just trace the tube to the other end. They are face to face. On the blue pic is the end that is disconnected. The other port on the tube from the intercooler to the trotter body. It is directly across from the PCV valve towards the front of the vehicle. It is a tight squeeze but very doable after removing the cold air intake tube on top of the radiator.

As to the fittings, I got them on eBay but they are easy and cheaper to find on other online portals. Check my blog for part numbers. Know that you don't need new fittings for the bottom, just the top. I think the blog explains this a little better. Videos are a one-take and sometimes fail to cover every single step due to camera angles.

 

[Barracuda340]

Thank you!! I checked out your blog. I got the brass fittings on order from a supply house, and the hose wrap on order thru amazon. I will make a mount plate for the cans out of some aluminum plate I have. What type of 90° elbow adaptor did you use for the drain petcock? I would like to have everything here like a ready to assemble kit to make this mod as easy as possible. Also, where did you get the very coarse steel wool you put in the catch cans?

 

[Nandn205]

@CubanRedneck I noticed you installed the bronco sport engine cover on yours. Did you do this for aesthetics or noise?

 

[Barracuda340]

@CubanRedneck I noticed you installed the bronco sport engine cover on yours. Did you do this for aesthetics or noise?

A lot of people say it helps cut down on noise. I would say do it for both. Noise and it makes it look nicer.

 

[CubanRedneck]

@CubanRedneck I noticed you installed the bronco sport engine cover on yours. Did you do this for aesthetics or noise?

The cover is from a 2022 Scape 2.0, it is a noise suppressor or dampener more than an aesthetic. Very noticeable if you stop at a light under an overpass or anywhere where you can hear the engine running.

 

[Barracuda340]

Heres the thing you have a 2.0L turbo that maxes at 250hp. That engine turns a higher RPM and works harder for the same amount of power and vehicle speed that the V6 your T100 had. If your T100 had a V8, the disparity would be even more.

4 bangers always work harder. I dont run my stuff hard, but it is still getting worked hard. Case in point my current DD 2008 chevy HHR. It's an ecotec 2.2 with a 5 speed O/D manual trans. Rolling down the freeway I'm doing 75mph its turning 3,100 rpm. This is just to keep up with traffic.

My 94 chevy silverado pickup is also a 5 speed O/D stick shift. It has a V8. The same 75mph its turning 2,300 rpm. You can see which one is working harder. I am willing to bet, just running highway speeds without beating the snot out of it, these catch cans will collect up a lot of gunk.

 

[MavDave]

Heres the thing you have a 2.0L turbo that maxes at 250hp. That engine turns a higher RPM and works harder for the same amount of power and vehicle speed that the V6 in your T100 had. If your T100 had a V8, the disparity would be even more.

4 bangers always work harder. I dont run my stuff hard, but it is still getting worked hard. Case in point my current DD 2008 chevy HHR. It's an ecotec 2.2 with a 5 speed O/D manual trans. Rolling down the freeway I'm doing 75mph its turning 3,100 rpm. This is just to keep up with traffic.

My 94 chevy silverado pickup is also a 5 speed O/D stick shift. It has a V8. The same 75mph its turning 2,300 rpm. You can see which one is working harder. I am willing to bet, just running highway speeds without beating the snot out of it, these catch cans will collect up a lot of gunk.

It is also worth considering that every engine has a sweet spot for the most efficient operation. For most V8s that is around 1750 RPMs. Most 4 cylinders have their sweet spot around 2750 RPMs (not exact but a ballpark). The engine is rotating faster, but the amount of work being done is subjective. A V8 running 1500 RPMs is firing the same number of times per minute as a 4 cylinder at 3000 RPMs. The 4 cylinder will always be turning more RPM for sure at the same MPH.

 

[Barracuda340]

I bet my silverado would turn less RPMs if I had ordered it with a 2.73, 3.08, or a 3.23 ring and pinion when new. I ordered it with 3.55 ring and pinion. The intent was to tow.

This is likely why the 4k tow pak has a different final gear ratio on both differentials. It's to allow what grunt the engine has to pull a bigger load.

 

[MavDave]

That is why I got the 4k pack. I don't tow often but I like to know I can iff the need arises.

 

[Barracuda340]

My catch cans came in yesterday. When I do final assembly on these, I plan to put antisieze on the can threads. I got the ones with the ball valve drain, however I figure from time to time the cans will need to come off for a thorough cleaning out. Being these are aluminum in construction, even with o rings, moisture getting on the threads on the inside will corrode everything together. I also plan to paint the inside of the catch cans with fluid resistant aircraft epoxy primer to protect from moisture eating away at the aluminum. I will post up pix after I coat them.

 

[CubanRedneck]

My catch cans came in yesterday. When I do final assembly on these, I plan to put antisieze on the can threads. I got the ones with the ball valve drain, however I figure from time to time the cans will need to come off for a thorough cleaning out. Being these are aluminum in construction, even with o rings, moisture getting on the threads on the inside will corrode everything together. I also plan to paint the inside of the catch cans with fluid resistant aircraft epoxy primer to protect from moisture eating away at the aluminum. I will post up pix after I coat them.

I did use Peramtex on all bare treads and Teflon tape on the others, but I don't recommend adding anything to the inside. For the most part, what these canisters are collecting is oil, or at least enough oil to keep any corrosion from forming. They will also experience a broad range of temperatures something epoxy paints don't like. Anodizing is the finish of choice in the aircraft industry for a reason and why I chose the black anodized finish over the polished. Also, the ones I got have a 3-micron filter in them consider changing that every couple of years instead.

 

[Barracuda340]

I did use Peramtex on all bare treads and Teflon tape on the others, but I don't recommend adding anything to the inside. For the most part, what these canisters are collecting is oil, or at least enough oil to keep any corrosion from forming. They will also experience a broad range of temperatures something epoxy paints don't like. Anodizing is the finish of choice in the aircraft industry for a reason and why I chose the black anodized finish over the polished. Also, the ones I got have a 3-micron filter in them consider changing that every couple of years instead.

Yes anodizing is used in aviation for a reason. I went with the black anodize and it appears to be coated nicely. It is a very corrosion resistant coating. I work in aviation MTX. I still see a lot of anodize stuff get corrosion on it. Especially fluid fittings. Yes for the most part anodizing does help the aluminum from corrosion. What I would be concerned about is water settling in spots on the bottom of the can in the corners since oil floats on water, and slowly corroding the inside. When you open the drain, it's not all going to come out. Some will be left in the corners. In my 28 years of working with aluminum parts I have seen a lot of corroded stuff. This always puts me into a proactive state of mind.

The primer I use is Akzo Noble 10P42NF 2 part fluid resistant epoxy. It is a 1-1 mix ratio. This stuff is impervious to heat and cold extremes. It does not peel or chip off once cured properly. Submerging it in MEK for weeks on end will not remove it. Chemical paint stripper will not remove it either. The only way to remove it is to sand it off or sand blast it off. I have actually used this primer inside thermostat housings on aluminum intake manifolds inside the water passages, and with it heat soaked with with antifreeze continuously soaking it, and it does not come loose.

This is some of the toughest primer I have ever used. If your interested in this, you can get a 2 part kit from Graco Aerospace. I even coated the parts of a friends engine dyno pump that are in water. 4 years later he pulled the pump apart to inspect it, and install new seals. No peeling, no corrosion.

Heres a tech tip for Mag Lights. Coat your batteries with Dow Corning DC33 o ring lube before you install them. Then if they leak, they wont corrode the flashlight tube.

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