Battery maintenance and fuel additive for long-term storage

[sva50233]

2023 hybrid xlt:
I am switching work locations for the winter and I'm planning to leave the car in the driveway for about six months.
My plan was to remove the battery from under the rear bench and connect it to my battery tender to maintain the charge
I was planning on driving until the fuel is nearly empty and putting half a can of Sta-bil in the tank

Is this a good or bad idea? Any better or additional suggestions for 6-month storage will be appreciated as well
It gets down to 10 degrees in the winter

Thanks

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[DWV]

I'd have to think about the battery issue, what temperature range will the Maverick see during the winter?

On the gas, I'd switch to non-ethanol gas 3 tanks or so before you leave, and leave the tank essentially full of 100% non-ethanol gasoline.

 

[Oscarcat]

Yes on removing the battery entirely.

However, read the instructions on the Sta-bil container. It needs to be mixed with gasoline to be effective, not just thrown into the gas tank.

I would not put it into an almost empty tank. In fact, to reduce condensation, the wisdom is to have the gas tank full, and mixed with the proper ratio of Sta-bil. Of course, after you add the Sta-bil, drive the truck so the fuel and Sta-bil mixture displaces all the old fuel throughout the fuel system. Sta-bil can't "stabilize" the fuel unless it is in the system.

EDIT: I did not take into account yours is a hybrid. I do not know the effects of long term cold on the propulsion battery and if there are any special procedures for your situation. You need to research that as well. Sorry, can't help with that.

Tires: Our Mavs come from the factory with 45psi so I would increase the tire pressure as well.

 

[HeyBales]

Manual has these tidbits.

PREPARING YOUR VEHICLE FOR STORAGE

If you plan on storing your vehicle for 30 days or more, the following maintenance recommendations makes sure your vehicle stays in good operating condition.
Under various conditions, long-term storage may lead to degraded engine performance or failure unless you use specific precautions to preserve your vehicle.
General

• Store all vehicles in a dry, ventilated place.
• If vehicles are stored outside, they require regular maintenance to protect against rust and weather damage.
• Make sure all linkages, cables, levers and pins under your vehicle are covered with grease to prevent rust.
• Move vehicles at least 25 ft (7.5 m) every 15 days to lubricate working parts and prevent corrosion.
• Fill the fuel tank with high-quality fuel until the first automatic shutoff of the fuel pump nozzle.

Engine

• Change the engine oil and filter prior to storage because used engine oil contains contaminants which may cause engine damage.
• Start the engine every 15 days for a minimum of 15 minutes.Run at fast idle with the climate controls set to defrost until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
• With your foot on the brake, shift through all the gears while the engine is running.

Body

• Wash your vehicle thoroughly to remove dirt, grease, oil, tar or mud from exterior surfaces, rear wheel housings and the underside of front fenders.
• Periodically wash your vehicle if it is stored in exposed locations.
• Touch-up exposed or primed metal to prevent rust.
• Cover chrome and stainless steel parts with a thick coat of auto wax to prevent discoloration.Rewax as necessary when you wash your vehicle.
• Lubricate all hood, door and luggage compartment hinges and latches with a light grade oil.
• Cover interior trim to prevent fading.
• Keep all rubber parts free from oil and solvents.

12 Volt Battery

• When storing your vehicle for longer than 30 days the battery state of charge should be approximately 50%. Additionally, we recommend to disconnect the 12v battery to reduce system loads on the battery, or you can use a trickle charger for longer storage periods.
• Check and recharge as necessary. Keep connections clean.

Note: It is necessary to reset memory features if you disconnect the battery cables.
Tires

• Maintain recommended air pressure.
• To minimize flat spots on the tires, inflate all four tires to the recommended cold pressures listed on the Safety Compliance Certification label or Tire Label affixed to your vehicle. When the vehicle is taken out of storage, reset the tire pressures as necessary to the recommended levels listed on the Safety Compliance Certification label or Tire Label affixed to your vehicle.

Note: If you store your vehicle in a location with low ambient temperatures, follow the instructions for care of summer tires.
Brakes
Make sure the brakes and parking brake fully release.
Note: If you intend to park your vehicle for an extended period after cleaning, drive it for few minutes before parking. This reduces the risk of corrosion of the brake discs, brake pads and linings.

 

[sva50233]

I'd have to think about the battery issue, what temperature range will the Maverick see during the winter?

On the gas, I'd switch to non-ethanol gas 3 tanks or so before you leave, and leave the tank essentially full of 100% non-ethanol gasoline.

I think that's possible, though I'd have to find a station that does non-ethanol. I may not have 3 tanks worth of driving to do, but at least one additional one for sure. And would you say add Sta-Bil to that full tank as well?

Temps will be as low as 10 degrees Farenheit during the winter

 

[sva50233]

Yes on removing the battery entirely.

However, read the instructions on the Sta-bil container. It needs to be mixed with gasoline to be effective, not just thrown into the gas tank.

I would not put it into an almost empty tank. In fact, to reduce condensation, the wisdom is to have the gas tank full, and mixed with the proper ratio of Sta-bil. Of course, after you add the Sta-bil, drive the truck so the fuel and Sta-bil mixture displaces all the old fuel throughout the fuel system. Sta-bil can't "stabilize" the fuel unless it is in the system.

EDIT: I did not take into account yours is a hybrid. I do not know the effects of long term cold on the propulsion battery and if there are any special procedures for your situation. You need to research that as well. Sorry, can't help with that.

Tires: Our Mavs come from the factory with 45psi so I would increase the tire pressure as well.

Good to know on the mixing of the fuel. I currently have four old Mercedes' in another state and they all have the K-Jetronic fuel system (fuel distributor, electro-hydro actuator, and cold start valve--complicated system) and never had a problem with nearly empty tanks with a couple ounces of Sta-Bil, but I will look into a full tank going forward.

Good to know on the 45 psi to keep the tires from deflating too much

 

[sva50233]

Manual has these tidbits.

PREPARING YOUR VEHICLE FOR STORAGE

If you plan on storing your vehicle for 30 days or more, the following maintenance recommendations makes sure your vehicle stays in good operating condition.
Under various conditions, long-term storage may lead to degraded engine performance or failure unless you use specific precautions to preserve your vehicle.
General

• Store all vehicles in a dry, ventilated place.
• If vehicles are stored outside, they require regular maintenance to protect against rust and weather damage.
• Make sure all linkages, cables, levers and pins under your vehicle are covered with grease to prevent rust.
• Move vehicles at least 25 ft (7.5 m) every 15 days to lubricate working parts and prevent corrosion.
• Fill the fuel tank with high-quality fuel until the first automatic shutoff of the fuel pump nozzle.

Engine

• Change the engine oil and filter prior to storage because used engine oil contains contaminants which may cause engine damage.
• Start the engine every 15 days for a minimum of 15 minutes.Run at fast idle with the climate controls set to defrost until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
• With your foot on the brake, shift through all the gears while the engine is running.

Body

• Wash your vehicle thoroughly to remove dirt, grease, oil, tar or mud from exterior surfaces, rear wheel housings and the underside of front fenders.
• Periodically wash your vehicle if it is stored in exposed locations.
• Touch-up exposed or primed metal to prevent rust.
• Cover chrome and stainless steel parts with a thick coat of auto wax to prevent discoloration.Rewax as necessary when you wash your vehicle.
• Lubricate all hood, door and luggage compartment hinges and latches with a light grade oil.
• Cover interior trim to prevent fading.
• Keep all rubber parts free from oil and solvents.

12 Volt Battery

• When storing your vehicle for longer than 30 days the battery state of charge should be approximately 50%. Additionally, we recommend to disconnect the 12v battery to reduce system loads on the battery, or you can use a trickle charger for longer storage periods.
• Check and recharge as necessary. Keep connections clean.

Note: It is necessary to reset memory features if you disconnect the battery cables.
Tires

• Maintain recommended air pressure.
• To minimize flat spots on the tires, inflate all four tires to the recommended cold pressures listed on the Safety Compliance Certification label or Tire Label affixed to your vehicle. When the vehicle is taken out of storage, reset the tire pressures as necessary to the recommended levels listed on the Safety Compliance Certification label or Tire Label affixed to your vehicle.

Note: If you store your vehicle in a location with low ambient temperatures, follow the instructions for care of summer tires.
Brakes
Make sure the brakes and parking brake fully release.
Note: If you intend to park your vehicle for an extended period after cleaning, drive it for few minutes before parking. This reduces the risk of corrosion of the brake discs, brake pads and linings.

Thanks for sharing the information from the manual. I didn't know about releasing the parking brake--the car will be on a relatively flat gravel driveway, which should be fine for no parking brake. I wonder if spraying down the rotors with WD-40 prior to departing would help prevent them from rusting--I'm considering that.

Unfortunately, I won't be able to move the car every 15 days, so I guess I'm taking a gamble that when I return and put the float-charged battery back in and turn the ignition, it will 'fire up' and be drivable. At least that is my hope.

 

[DWV]

I’m not a fan of additives. Most of the gasoline additives are just isopropyl alcohol to help sequester water. So if you find non-alcholol gasoline, you have less problems to start with.

If someone stated previously, you really need to get the new fuel or the treated fuel throughout the system or to do any good. But leaving the tank full is a requirement in my book.

At 10°F I believe I would invest in inside and climate controlled storage if it were my truck.

 

[sva50233]

I’m not a fan of additives. Most of the gasoline additives are just isopropyl alcohol to help sequester water. So if you find non-alcholol gasoline, you have less problems to start with.

If someone stated previously, you really need to get the new fuel or the treated fuel throughout the system or to do any good. But leaving the tank full is a requirement in my book.

At 10°F I believe I would invest in inside and climate controlled storage if it were my truck.

I have had success with the Sta-Bil for my vintage Mercedes collection in the past. I routinely return to the vehicles after 3+ months with a float-charged battery and they all fire up with little hesitation. But I realize this hybrid is a different animal than what I'm used to.

Good to hear a second person iterate on the full tank theme. I'm going to seriously consider that for the other cars going forward.

Unfortunately, I don't have the money for climate-controlled storage, otherwise I would probably do that

 

[Tbone289]

I wouldn't get too focused on the fuel. The Hybrid tank is very tightly sealed so won't allow ethanol blended fuel to absorb water over a six-month period. It's vented fuel systems such as on boats, classic vehicles and lawn equipment where that is a concern.

 

[DWV]

Thanks for sharing the information from the manual. I didn't know about releasing the parking brake--the car will be on a relatively flat gravel driveway, which should be fine for no parking brake. I wonder if spraying down the rotors with WD-40 prior to departing would help prevent them from rusting--I'm considering that.

Unfortunately, I won't be able to move the car every 15 days, so I guess I'm taking a gamble that when I return and put the float-charged battery back in and turn the ignition, it will 'fire up' and be drivable. At least that is my hope.

I would not use WD-40 or any other oil on my rotors. Would be a likely way to mess up the brake pads.

Why not just take the Maverick with you?

 

[HeyBales]

For the HVB I'd recommend a good long regen braking into your final spot to get it up closer to the 70% max, not the 30% minimum. Or better have it on Sport mode for final trip to gas station and back - that attempts to stay at 70% too. And if stabilizer added at station, will get it running thru the system.

Advice on tires up to dealer received pressure should help with not moving it.

Some sort of rodent deterrent.

 

[sva50233]

All very good advice gents. Don't worry about the fuel, but top it up. Rodent repellent (I already do this on the Benzes as they have eaten through some wiring harness jackets and one headlight plug which I was able to source at a junkyard but which took time to properly splice in and solder)--something like the peppermint packets and jars they sell on Amazon.

Good call on the regen braking prior to storage to top-up the battery

 

[Mavster Mechanic]

Not sure if Sport tops off the battery. Probably. But I never tried.

I can CONFIRM if you putz around at low speeds for the last 5 minutes before parking in Tow/Haul mode; it will top off the hybrid battery to maximum allowed. The 70% often quoted. And I would consider this a must have.

Also I consider removing, or at least disconnecting the 12v battery a must.

I've had 2 year old gas run just fine in simple machines like lawn mowers and tractors. In a well sealed tank, additives are a waste of money. Oh. And wife inherited a 2008? BMW that sat unused for 5 YEARS and after changing the battery, it started right up on 5 year old gas. I know that is 1 success story out of 1. But hey, gas does not go as bad as people think.

PS your truck will survive 6 months of storage when new. It will kill the HV battery for good if you try that at age 10 or older.

best of luck

 

[Cherokee]

I'd have to think about the battery issue, what temperature range will the Maverick see during the winter?

On the gas, I'd switch to non-ethanol gas 3 tanks or so before you leave, and leave the tank essentially full of 100% non-ethanol gasoline.

Do this in the gas AND add stabil.
Battery tender, yeppers.
Six months of non use, I’d put 39 psi in the tires.
Then Fagetaboutit

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