Relatively inexpensive and positive audio upgrades

[DCP]

I've added just a couple of upgrades to the OEM audio system that have made a really positive difference. I would say the truck's sound is now comparable to a premium system that you might find in a luxury vehicle. I've only changed the front door speakers with a set of Power Bass OE65C-FD 6.5" and added a Rockville SS8P powered subwoofer.

These were a direct fit even though the website says they are not (Power Bass OE65C-FD). I bought them a year ago for under $100 - they appear to be more now. The install involved just removing the door panel, switching out the speakers, and putting the door panel back on - quick and easy with no surprises.

The powered sub (Rockville SS8P) was $99 and came with all the wiring needed for a nice installation. It is a great size to easily install behind the back seat on the bracket that appears to be for the B&O amplifier if you have that sound system. I cut a piece of plywood, painted it with bedliner paint, and attached it to the bracket. Then I mounted the powered sub to the ply wood. In the hybrid, everything is within a foot or two for all of the connections needed. Unit power went under the seat an to the 12v battery. Ground went to an existing ground point just above the bracket. High level inputs tapped into the the right rear speaker wire in the corner (green/black was positive and gray was negative). I have only attached one side and it sounds great. I may not even connect the left rear high level input unless I learn of a convincing reason to do so. The install was clean and there are no rattles. I did put some rubber washers between the sub feet and the board but they are probably not needed.

Here is a picture of where the powered sub fits nicely behind the seat.

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[Decayed]

nice looking install and so cheap! If my ears could still tell the difference I'd do the same mod.

 

[Snowbird]

Very nice!

Glad to know you are happy with that sub. I am still deciding as to weather I will add one and had considered the SS8P.

 

[DCP]

Very nice!

Glad to know you are happy with that sub. I am still deciding as to weather I will add one and had considered the SS8P.

It doesn't hit with earth rattling lows but it enhances the bass nicely. Based on the type of music, it can deliver some thump because of the relatively small cabin space. The installing was really easy if you don't use the RCA connections and remote. Since I tapped into the speaker wires in that corner, I didn't need them. I also like the shell of the sub box. I think it is aluminum and it seems really solid.

 

[DCP]

Another post shows almost the same set up: [Inexpensive (relatively) sub-woofer install]. In his post, he explained that he cut off the factory bent parts of the bracket. I did not cut them off because they can be easily bent flat by hand.

 

[BearyArizona]

Nice! Would you say it was relatively easy to the point a novice (aka, me) could do it? Or complicated enough to have a professional do the install?

 

[Snowbird]

It doesn't hit with earth rattling lows but it enhances the bass nicely. Based on the type of music, it can deliver some thump because of the relatively small cabin space. The installing was really easy if you don't use the RCA connections and remote. Since I tapped into the speaker wires in that corner, I didn't need them. I also like the shell of the sub box. I think it is aluminum and it seems really solid.

Thanks.

I just received a PUZU amp and rear Infinity speakers. I had a knee replaced two weeks ago and as soon as I am up to it I will do the installation. I am looking for a better rear sound stage and depending on how things sound will dictate weather I get a sub like yours and front speakers. The PUZU has the RCA wiring for a sub as a separate channel.

Right now I think my base system front door speaker and dash tweeters sound pretty good. They should sound better with the amp I would think. The rear sound is what I find lacking.

 

[Snowbird]

Another post shows almost the same set up: [Inexpensive (relatively) sub-woofer install]. In his post, he explained that he cut off the factory bent parts of the bracket. I did not cut them off because they can be easily bent flat by hand.

I was following his post and contacted him. He lives the next town over from me and I hope to hear his sound system after I am more mobile!

 

[DCP]

Nice! Would you say it was relatively easy to the point a novice (aka, me) could do it? Or complicated enough to have a professional do the install?

The door speakers are novice level. Just watch any number of YouTube videos on removing the door panels. The speakers are plug-and-play using the same wiring plugs.

For the powered sub in the hybrid, I would say novice level (or just slightly above) as long as the novice can make good wiring connections from the powered sub wiring harness to the supplied cables (power, ground, and high level speaker inputs). Otherwise, cut a board to fit over the butterfly looking bracket behind the seat, paint it for looks if you like, mark it and drill holes to bolt the board to the bracket, and attach the powered sub to the board using supplied screws or bolt it on with wing nuts like I did for easy removal. Then wire it up. The power wire has an inline fuse and the battery (in the hybrid) is less than 2' away below the seat. I ran the power wire under the molded plastic for the under seat storage to the battery. The ground wire can be really short. I attached it to the existing ground point right above the powered sub. You can see it clearly in the picture. Then I used Posi-Taps (look on Amazon) to tap into the right rear speaker wires. Then I cleaned the wiring up with some shielding. That's it. I planned to tap into both rear speakers and already have the wiring set up, but it sounds great just tapped into the right side. One day I might tap into the left rear speaker but I don't hear any reason to bother with it right now.

 

[BearyArizona]

The door speakers are novice level. Just watch any number of YouTube videos on removing the door panels. The speakers are plug-and-play using the same wiring plugs.

For the powered sub in the hybrid, I would say novice level (or just slightly above) as long as the novice can make good wiring connections from the powered sub wiring harness to the supplied cables (power, ground, and high level speaker inputs). Otherwise, cut a board to fit over the butterfly looking bracket behind the seat, paint it for looks if you like, mark it and drill holes to bolt the board to the bracket, and attach the powered sub to the board using supplied screws or bolt it on with wing nuts like I did for easy removal. Then wire it up. The power wire has an inline fuse and the battery (in the hybrid) is less than 2' away below the seat. I ran the power wire under the molded plastic for the under seat storage to the battery. The ground wire can be really short. I attached it to the existing ground point right above the powered sub. You can see it clearly in the picture. Then I used Posi-Taps (look on Amazon) to tap into the right rear speaker wires. Then I cleaned the wiring up with some shielding. That's it. I planned to tap into both rear speakers and already have the wiring set up, but it sounds great just tapped into the right side. One day I might tap into the left rear speaker but I don't hear any reason to bother with it right now.

Awesome summary, thank you!

 

[Jason Bourne]

I've added just a couple of upgrades to the OEM audio system that have made a really positive difference. I would say the truck's sound is now comparable to a premium system that you might find in a luxury vehicle. I've only changed the front door speakers with a set of Power Bass OE65C-FD 6.5" and added a Rockville SS8P powered subwoofer.

These were a direct fit even though the website says they are not (Power Bass OE65C-FD). I bought them a year ago for under $100 - they appear to be more now. The install involved just removing the door panel, switching out the speakers, and putting the door panel back on - quick and easy with no surprises.

The powered sub (Rockville SS8P) was $99 and came with all the wiring needed for a nice installation. It is a great size to easily install behind the back seat on the bracket that appears to be for the B&O amplifier if you have that sound system. I cut a piece of plywood, painted it with bedliner paint, and attached it to the bracket. Then I mounted the powered sub to the ply wood. In the hybrid, everything is within a foot or two for all of the connections needed. Unit power went under the seat an to the 12v battery. Ground went to an existing ground point just above the bracket. High level inputs tapped into the the right rear speaker wire in the corner (green/black was positive and gray was negative). I have only attached one side and it sounds great. I may not even connect the left rear high level input unless I learn of a convincing reason to do so. The install was clean and there are no rattles. I did put some rubber washers between the sub feet and the board but they are probably not needed.

Here is a picture of where the powered sub fits nicely behind the seat.

Thanks for the write-up! Do you think it would be worthwhile to replace the rear speakers as well? Or wouldn't that make much of a difference?

 

[DCP]

Thanks for the write-up! Do you think it would be worthwhile to replace the rear speakers as well? Or wouldn't that make much of a difference?

I did not and it sounds good. But, I am certain it would sound even better with the rear speakers replaced. The factory ones are not high quality.

 

[Jrsmith313]

I've added just a couple of upgrades to the OEM audio system that have made a really positive difference. I would say the truck's sound is now comparable to a premium system that you might find in a luxury vehicle. I've only changed the front door speakers with a set of Power Bass OE65C-FD 6.5" and added a Rockville SS8P powered subwoofer.

These were a direct fit even though the website says they are not (Power Bass OE65C-FD). I bought them a year ago for under $100 - they appear to be more now. The install involved just removing the door panel, switching out the speakers, and putting the door panel back on - quick and easy with no surprises.

The powered sub (Rockville SS8P) was $99 and came with all the wiring needed for a nice installation. It is a great size to easily install behind the back seat on the bracket that appears to be for the B&O amplifier if you have that sound system. I cut a piece of plywood, painted it with bedliner paint, and attached it to the bracket. Then I mounted the powered sub to the ply wood. In the hybrid, everything is within a foot or two for all of the connections needed. Unit power went under the seat an to the 12v battery. Ground went to an existing ground point just above the bracket. High level inputs tapped into the the right rear speaker wire in the corner (green/black was positive and gray was negative). I have only attached one side and it sounds great. I may not even connect the left rear high level input unless I learn of a convincing reason to do so. The install was clean and there are no rattles. I did put some rubber washers between the sub feet and the board but they are probably not needed.

Here is a picture of where the powered sub fits nicely behind the seat.

What settings did you end up using for the phase, low pass, bass boost and input gain?

 

[DCP]

What settings did you end up using for the phase, low pass, bass boost and input gain?

Phase is normal. You should only change it if you wire the speakers with reverse polarity. The other settings are somewhere near their midranges. Nothing is maxed out. Just adjust them in very small increments until you like what you hear. I did not install the remote bass knob. I just set the base boost a little over the midpoint on the unit and it stays there.

 

[FreedomPenguin]

Kinda ieeelevant bc op is not lariat,

but is there any reason why, you cant leave stock subwoofer in lariat + tap the 2 wires into hideaway subwoofer and run both together?
And if you actually disconnect the stock sub, does that actually free up let’s say 50 watts off the amp? Or does it not affect the useage eitherway

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