- First Name
- Mexican
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2026
- Threads
- 1
- Messages
- 3
- Reaction score
- 1
- Location
- California
- Vehicle(s)
- 22' EcoBoost AWD
- Engine
- 2.0L EcoBoost
- Thread starter
- #1
Hello everyone. I'm trying to fix this issue without redeeming the 12V Battery Recall Ford has put out since I will be out $200 (I didn't know about the recall until after I replaced the battery).
My 2022 Ecoboost's original battery lasted a little under 4 years without issues but after switching to Walmart's EverStart Platinum AGM battery (Group H6, 12V, 760 CCA) I am getting a Battery Service Needed alert on the dash and a couple of DTCs on ForScan (I can post these if asked).
Things I've done post replacement:
1. Reset BMS manually (Key to on position, 5 hazard light flashes, 3 brake pedal presses. Confirmed via battery symbol flashing) post replacement. Sat overnight.
(Didn't fix issue)
2. Charged battery (portable jump start) and reset BMS. Sat overnight.
(Didn't fix issue)
3. Changed "Battery Level State of Charge" from 80% to 95% on ForScan (Battery type was showing AGM already), Cleared codes/DTCs. Drove 30 miles. Charged battery. Reset BMS manually. Sat overnight.
(Didn't fix issue)
Has anyone dealt with the same situation and found a fix? The truck starts every time but now is experiecing technical difficulties like not being able to close doors via Driver Side Door, Key Fob has lost range, AutoStart/Stop disabled (don't use anyway).
Update 1/12/2026 / Solution:
Yesterday the battery was at it's worst point, even shutting down on me as I warmed up the engine before driving off. I think I fixed it though.
I drove for 30 miles today without the repair light/message showing and my voltmeter on cigarettes lighter USB hub shows a steady 14.5V instead of the 11V-12.5V range it usually was at driving.
Here's what I did:
1. I accidently snapped the 12V negative terminal clasp bolt (that tightens the clasp to the negative side post) so I went to AutoZone to buy a replacement. I was trying to tighten it because I was suspecting a loose connection causing resistance (and low voltage in turn). It was pretty loose upon initial inspection. Photo attached:
2. AutoZone Battery Tightening bolt & nut didn't secure the clasp (didn't tighten it at all) so I moved the OEM tightening bolt & nut on the positive post to the negative post. I made sure the clasp was flush (as far down touching the battery as possible) and tightened it securely.
(I'm sure the positive clasp isn't secure but it has other terminals and nuts holding it down, so I'll leave it be until I find a replacement).
3. In the process I did remove whatever this is (photo attached) and all the nuts associated to it in the process. I noticed there was a thread and nut burnt but I didn't seem to affect anything (photo also attached).
P.S. I also disconnected and reconnected whatever is on the negative terminal clasp (voltmeter for BMS?).
Hope this helps anyone.
My 2022 Ecoboost's original battery lasted a little under 4 years without issues but after switching to Walmart's EverStart Platinum AGM battery (Group H6, 12V, 760 CCA) I am getting a Battery Service Needed alert on the dash and a couple of DTCs on ForScan (I can post these if asked).
Things I've done post replacement:
1. Reset BMS manually (Key to on position, 5 hazard light flashes, 3 brake pedal presses. Confirmed via battery symbol flashing) post replacement. Sat overnight.
(Didn't fix issue)
2. Charged battery (portable jump start) and reset BMS. Sat overnight.
(Didn't fix issue)
3. Changed "Battery Level State of Charge" from 80% to 95% on ForScan (Battery type was showing AGM already), Cleared codes/DTCs. Drove 30 miles. Charged battery. Reset BMS manually. Sat overnight.
(Didn't fix issue)
Has anyone dealt with the same situation and found a fix? The truck starts every time but now is experiecing technical difficulties like not being able to close doors via Driver Side Door, Key Fob has lost range, AutoStart/Stop disabled (don't use anyway).
Update 1/12/2026 / Solution:
Yesterday the battery was at it's worst point, even shutting down on me as I warmed up the engine before driving off. I think I fixed it though.
I drove for 30 miles today without the repair light/message showing and my voltmeter on cigarettes lighter USB hub shows a steady 14.5V instead of the 11V-12.5V range it usually was at driving.
Here's what I did:
1. I accidently snapped the 12V negative terminal clasp bolt (that tightens the clasp to the negative side post) so I went to AutoZone to buy a replacement. I was trying to tighten it because I was suspecting a loose connection causing resistance (and low voltage in turn). It was pretty loose upon initial inspection. Photo attached:
2. AutoZone Battery Tightening bolt & nut didn't secure the clasp (didn't tighten it at all) so I moved the OEM tightening bolt & nut on the positive post to the negative post. I made sure the clasp was flush (as far down touching the battery as possible) and tightened it securely.
(I'm sure the positive clasp isn't secure but it has other terminals and nuts holding it down, so I'll leave it be until I find a replacement).
3. In the process I did remove whatever this is (photo attached) and all the nuts associated to it in the process. I noticed there was a thread and nut burnt but I didn't seem to affect anything (photo also attached).
P.S. I also disconnected and reconnected whatever is on the negative terminal clasp (voltmeter for BMS?).
Hope this helps anyone.
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