Opliste Dynamic Scan Start Up Hoodbeam Kit Installation

[Dakota]

Hello all. I'm looking for a little direction here. I have a 25 Hybrid XLT I ordered and purchased in May from Granger Ford in Iowa. Well worth the savings and trip here from NC. They actually did better than the Employee Price promotion and were a pleasure to deal with.
So far I really like the little sort of a truck.

Once home I have had things added like a hard triple fold bed cover, full bed rug, USB ports/Light in the bed, cargo nets, center console trays, door jam protector plates, as well as some other small things.

I will mention I have little to no skills mechanically or of an electrical nature, but I don't mind trying if it is something relatively simple, I have a game plan and do not need to worry about voiding any factory warranties.

I recently saw a posting from I believe an author called Redneck Garage. He installed a strip of LED lights on the front of the Maverick that I thought added good visibility, was fairly simple to install, and was cheap. As I recall he added it to an existing circuit that controlled the front side marker lights. It required laying the tape backed LED strip, connecting a ground, and splicing the power wire into the side marker light for a power connection.

I read a bunch of reviews on the item he used as well as similar products. One of the biggest complaints was that they did not last long before failure or some lights started going out sporadically. Cheap Chinese stuff. I also noticed one posting indicating the side marker light was hard to get out and that poster damaged the paint while removing it. There was also another posting that indicated the user installed it on an existing circuit and apparently overloaded what it was designed for and it worked erratically as well as the other light(s) already on the circuit.

Here's a link to the product...Opliste Dynamic Scan Start Up Hoodbeam Kit

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BPYL1YN3/ref=twister_B0BPYMXZC1?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

The shipping costs almost as much as the item itself but it is cheap enough that I don't mind if it needs to be replaced occasionally.

Because of that I was thinking it best to use a reusable connector such as these......

https://www.amazon.com/Posi-lock-Co...6c-b639-6adb1053690f&pd_rd_i=B004D0FAIA&psc=1

Because of the potential to overload a circuit and possibility of ruining the paint pulling out the side marker light I would like to get the power from an empty fuse slot from the fuse box under the hood (I prefer not to splice). Is this possible? ....and can the fuse box cover still be properly sealed and closed if a fuse tap such as in the below link is used.....

https://www.amazon.com/Cooclensport...motive&sprefix=fuse+tap,automotive,155&sr=1-3

I'm not sure what type of fuse tap to use or what slot to use would be best but I figure the assortment above should have something that works.

Any direction, tips or recommendations to complete this install greatly appreciated.

Thanks

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[Mabcim]

There are videos showing how to take off the side marker light. I recall there is a trick to it, and it takes a good amount of force.

You do want to understand what current draw any device you add needs. That will help determine if you will overload a circuit. When attaching to something like the side light, it would be hard to know what that circuit is already using. You would need a service manual and see all the things on it. Otherwise have to go with what others have done.

The best option is to wire to the fuse box, so you know what you have. Fuse #3 is only active when the vehicle is on. That is the most popular one people use.

If it helps, here is a write up on how I used #3. You can see what fuse tap I used.
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...-default-to-a-drive-mode-my-‘25-update.31556/

 

[EVH5150]

Just a "Buyer Beware"--I bought two of these lights and they both had dead spots shortly after install. I ended-up going "Raptor Style" instead.

 

[Dakota]

There are videos showing how to take off the side marker light. I recall there is a trick to it, and it takes a good amount of force.

You do want to understand what current draw any device you add needs. That will help determine if you will overload a circuit. When attaching to something like the side light, it would be hard to know what that circuit is already using. You would need a service manual and see all the things on it. Otherwise have to go with what others have done.

The best option is to wire to the fuse box, so you know what you have. Fuse #3 is only active when the vehicle is on. That is the most popular one people use.

If it helps, here is a write up on how I used #3. You can see what fuse tap I used.
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/diy-disable-auto-start-stop-default-to-a-drive-mode-my-‘25-update.31556/

 

[Dakota]

Hello,
Thanks, you certainly have a wealth of knowledge and experience on this stuff. I will follow your suggestion and use fuse slot 3 which will only provides power when the vehicle is started.....just what I want. You also indicated it is a Micro 2, which is another piece of info I needed to confirm.

Unfortunately I followed your link for the Fuse Tap - Littelfuse FHM20200ZP Micro2 Add-A-Circuit (Advance Auto, Amazon, etc.) but Amazon indicates it is no longer available.
Now that it is confirmed to be a Micro 2 could the item in the link below be substituted without causing an issue closing the fuse box ?.....or is it too big (All the taps seem to hold 2 fuses).....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08S3L5CR...8b22a2d609&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw

I can't find any info on the current draw for the light kit but it has an inline fuse so I can look at that and put a fuse of the same size in the slot. The link above includes a few different size fuses. Given there will be nothing else on the circuit I don't think there will be an overload issue.

Given your expertise there are a few other things I want to do after this. If you don't mind I will bounce those off of you when the time comes.

I should be fine with the first project. I actually bought an auto dimming mirror (including Home link) with a harness from a gentleman on eBay that I came across on the MTC forums. It works on the Maverick and gets power from the overhead cabin lights. The harness has an extra USB C connector for a dash cam I want to add at some point. He provided great instructions and a detailed video. It is plug n play....so no splicing required.

The second project is a bit more involved. For rear visibility purposes I would like to add an under the tailgate light bar that works with brakes, turn signals, backup lights, and running lights. All of these light bars I have seen require splicing or using a 4 connector provided cable that plugs into the 4 pin hitch receptacle. From everything I have read you do not want to do this if you have the co pilot 360 option, which I do. Apparently if you use that plug the computer thinks you have a trailer attached and deactivates some of the 360 features. I guess one needs to use the wiring from the 2 tail lights. Not wanting to splice or having any idea what the connector looks like ideally I would like to find a plug n play harness. So far I have not seen anyone offering them.

Thanks again for sharing your extensive knowledge and well written documentation.

 

[Dakota]

Just a "Buyer Beware"--I bought two of these lights and they both had dead spots shortly after install. I ended-up going "Raptor Style" instead.

 

[Azmkat]

I've had mine installed since January 2023. No problems.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BPYDFG8Z?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_10&th=1

 

[Dakota]

Thanks, that was the biggest issue with that product and similar ones based on the ratings. I like the concept but the quality is lacking. I figure they are cheap enough that when one set goes out I rip off the tape strip and replace it. I'm hoping I can at least get a year out of it which some users seem to get. And hopefully at some time a higher quality light strip will be available. I will have to look into the Raptor style.

 

[Dakota]

I've had mine installed since January 2023. No problems.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BPYDFG8Z?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_10&th=1

 

[Dakota]

That's good to hear. I only picked the Opliste product as it seemed to have a slightly higher rating. Maybe I will try that one next when the Opliste fails.

 

[Mabcim]

Hello,
Thanks, you certainly have a wealth of knowledge and experience on this stuff. I will follow your suggestion and use fuse slot 3 which will only provides power when the vehicle is started.....just what I want. You also indicated it is a Micro 2, which is another piece of info I needed to confirm.

Unfortunately I followed your link for the Fuse Tap - Littelfuse FHM20200ZP Micro2 Add-A-Circuit (Advance Auto, Amazon, etc.) but Amazon indicates it is no longer available.
Now that it is confirmed to be a Micro 2 could the item in the link below be substituted without causing an issue closing the fuse box ?.....or is it too big (All the taps seem to hold 2 fuses).....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08S3L5CR...8b22a2d609&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw

I can't find any info on the current draw for the light kit but it has an inline fuse so I can look at that and put a fuse of the same size in the slot. The link above includes a few different size fuses. Given there will be nothing else on the circuit I don't think there will be an overload issue.

Given your expertise there are a few other things I want to do after this. If you don't mind I will bounce those off of you when the time comes.

I should be fine with the first project. I actually bought an auto dimming mirror (including Home link) with a harness from a gentleman on eBay that I came across on the MTC forums. It works on the Maverick and gets power from the overhead cabin lights. The harness has an extra USB C connector for a dash cam I want to add at some point. He provided great instructions and a detailed video. It is plug n play....so no splicing required.

The second project is a bit more involved. For rear visibility purposes I would like to add an under the tailgate light bar that works with brakes, turn signals, backup lights, and running lights. All of these light bars I have seen require splicing or using a 4 connector provided cable that plugs into the 4 pin hitch receptacle. From everything I have read you do not want to do this if you have the co pilot 360 option, which I do. Apparently if you use that plug the computer thinks you have a trailer attached and deactivates some of the 360 features. I guess one needs to use the wiring from the 2 tail lights. Not wanting to splice or having any idea what the connector looks like ideally I would like to find a plug n play harness. So far I have not seen anyone offering them.

Thanks again for sharing your extensive knowledge and well written documentation.

I did a ton of research, but my degree helps me understand it and know what to look for.

It looks like that fuse tap should work. Just be sure to verify how it internals are.
For reference, this is the one I bought: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...WT9c5qaDsrEsbvwMbLZ1ve5mAjB3HwZhoCzpsQAvD_BwE

Yes, you can reach out for future projects, I’ll try to help the best I can.

I too have heard about the issue with plugging into the trailer plug. I think using the 7pin, if you have 4k tow, might be ok. I never looked too deeply. I’m sure there are wiring kits out there somewhere that would work. You could try searching places that make trailer hitches, as they would have kits for adding trailer wiring. That might get you the a plug-n-plug for the truck end, then you can connect to the end they have the the trailer. I know there was some discussion on this forum early on, when people were getting ’22s without hitches and wanted to add one.

As for the mirror, you can look at my other DIY thread (link is in the first post of my prior like). It explains some of the connections at the overhead console. If the harness you have connects to the 12v (I think its the yellow one), then the mirror will have power for about an hour after the truck is turned off, and will have power as soon as you open a door. If they used the purple wire, I don’t believe that one has current to run a USB.

 

[Azmkat]

I forgot to mention that I've had mine wired to the side marker light these last two and a half years.

 

[Dakota]

I forgot to mention that I've had mine wired to the side marker light these last two and a half years.

 

[Dakota]

Nice, yours is holding up well. I would be happy with 2 years per replacement. I noticed Walmart online has quite a few and for some a 3 yr extended warranty for $3.

 

[Dakota]

I did a ton of research, but my degree helps me understand it and know what to look for.

It looks like that fuse tap should work. Just be sure to verify how it internals are.
For reference, this is the one I bought: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...WT9c5qaDsrEsbvwMbLZ1ve5mAjB3HwZhoCzpsQAvD_BwE

Yes, you can reach out for future projects, I’ll try to help the best I can.

I too have heard about the issue with plugging into the trailer plug. I think using the 7pin, if you have 4k tow, might be ok. I never looked too deeply. I’m sure there are wiring kits out there somewhere that would work. You could try searching places that make trailer hitches, as they would have kits for adding trailer wiring. That might get you the a plug-n-plug for the truck end, then you can connect to the end they have the the trailer. I know there was some discussion on this forum early on, when people were getting ’22s without hitches and wanted to add one.

As for the mirror, you can look at my other DIY thread (link is in the first post of my prior like). It explains some of the connections at the overhead console. If the harness you have connects to the 12v (I think its the yellow one), then the mirror will have power for about an hour after the truck is turned off, and will have power as soon as you open a door. If they used the purple wire, I don’t believe that one has current to run a USB.

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