- First Name
- Paul
- Joined
- Nov 8, 2025
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- 102
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- 211
- Location
- Cumming, GA
- Vehicle(s)
- Mercedes
- Engine
- 2.0L EcoBoost
- Thread starter
- #1
If anyone has a Leer or A.R.E. and other toppers there’s a couple of issues as far as leaks go.
Leaks:
1. There’s the typical cab corners by the back window along with the bed rail where it meets the C pillar trim. This works for all tonneau and toppers. Thank @ToddsTruckLife video to help others.
I used RTV for the bed trim and top of the window and Silcone undeneath in the corners.
Video: Front Cab Corner Leaks
Then there’s the back corners of the topper. Here rain will drip down the rain channel and the wrap around the bottom corner and the headliner material will wick the water all along the sill. It was pretty bad at first. Here is a video on youtube that helped me with the back corner leaks. I fixed mine with some silicon and a small piece rubber so the water will drip past the topper corner. It's not pretty but it is working and can always be removed. will take other suggestions to make it nicer. I basically was trying to build the silicone up so that water would down instead of around onto the topper. Also I lifted the topper up and let the silicon bead dry up.
Video: Rear Water Channel Topper corner leak
3. Also installed the Keko Tail gate seal: Note: you will have to remove one of the tail gate tiedowns if you have the tailgate assist. I did not use the lower seal since I have a bed rug.
Video: Keko Tailgate seal
Link Tailgate seal
Modifications,
1. I had to shave the corners of the hatch so it would close easily. Before I had to slam it down pretty hard and there was a gap in the seal.
2. Hatch struts: went with a slightly longer hatch strut so that it’s not quite eye poking anymore. You do have to adjust the angle of the mounting bracket and bend it to conform to the hatch. Then you need to put a new hole to keep the bracket from pivoting.
Link 15" Gas Strut for Hatch
3. adding a magnetic light switch so the topper lights will turn on and off when you open and close the hatch. Currently using this switch, I may upgrade to a heavier duty switch down the road.
Link: Switch
4. Adding lights. if the headliner is right you can attach velcro to the tape on the back of strip lights. Just note if you remove them press down on the headliner as you remove it otherwise you will risk pulling the headliner down. I recommend COB LED strips, they are not as harsh and in your eyes like tradition LEDs.
Link COB LED Light Strip
Also a smooth bottom basket tray works nicely on the bedrug. I can pull and push it out easily without have to crawl into the corner now. This was from my previous 2 door Bronco and fits crates perfectly,
I hope this thread helps out people with toppers!
Cheers!
Leaks:
1. There’s the typical cab corners by the back window along with the bed rail where it meets the C pillar trim. This works for all tonneau and toppers. Thank @ToddsTruckLife video to help others.
I used RTV for the bed trim and top of the window and Silcone undeneath in the corners.
Video: Front Cab Corner Leaks
Then there’s the back corners of the topper. Here rain will drip down the rain channel and the wrap around the bottom corner and the headliner material will wick the water all along the sill. It was pretty bad at first. Here is a video on youtube that helped me with the back corner leaks. I fixed mine with some silicon and a small piece rubber so the water will drip past the topper corner. It's not pretty but it is working and can always be removed. will take other suggestions to make it nicer. I basically was trying to build the silicone up so that water would down instead of around onto the topper. Also I lifted the topper up and let the silicon bead dry up.
Video: Rear Water Channel Topper corner leak
3. Also installed the Keko Tail gate seal: Note: you will have to remove one of the tail gate tiedowns if you have the tailgate assist. I did not use the lower seal since I have a bed rug.
Video: Keko Tailgate seal
Link Tailgate seal
Modifications,
1. I had to shave the corners of the hatch so it would close easily. Before I had to slam it down pretty hard and there was a gap in the seal.
2. Hatch struts: went with a slightly longer hatch strut so that it’s not quite eye poking anymore. You do have to adjust the angle of the mounting bracket and bend it to conform to the hatch. Then you need to put a new hole to keep the bracket from pivoting.
Link 15" Gas Strut for Hatch
3. adding a magnetic light switch so the topper lights will turn on and off when you open and close the hatch. Currently using this switch, I may upgrade to a heavier duty switch down the road.
Link: Switch
4. Adding lights. if the headliner is right you can attach velcro to the tape on the back of strip lights. Just note if you remove them press down on the headliner as you remove it otherwise you will risk pulling the headliner down. I recommend COB LED strips, they are not as harsh and in your eyes like tradition LEDs.
Link COB LED Light Strip
Also a smooth bottom basket tray works nicely on the bedrug. I can pull and push it out easily without have to crawl into the corner now. This was from my previous 2 door Bronco and fits crates perfectly,
I hope this thread helps out people with toppers!
Cheers!
Sponsored
Last edited:
