I finally fixed the audio quality in the Maverick. Complete speaker replacement and 10" sub install.

[Toddman45]

Supposedly Ford is comming out with a fix which I think is another software update which is not available yet. There are some folks that said they bought their own AGM and it seems to work much better, but the dealer won't put one in. The only AGM in the size necessary for the Hybrid is from a different manufacturer.

I have not read any post of a Hybrid owner that has upgraded their audio like yours.

Ok, I hope they get this issue resolved for those dealing with battery saver mode on all the time.

If you search through some of the threads theres a few Hybrid owners with aftermarket sub and amp installed in they're Mavericks. Once I find the one I'm thinking of recently I'll DM you the thread.

Sponsored

 

[Mikes22Mav]

Ok, I hope they get this issue resolved for those dealing with battery saver mode on all the time.

If you search through some of the threads theres a few Hybrid owners with aftermarket sub and amp installed in they're Mavericks. Once I find the one I'm thinking of recently I'll DM you the thread.

I forgot to mention, Awesome job on the install. Are you a pro audio installer?

Also Hybrid owners will need to put the sub box on the drivers side which they do make because the 12 volt battery is on the passenger side.

 

[Toddman45]

I forgot to mention, Awesome job on the install. Are you a pro audio installer?

Also Hybrid owners will need to put the sub box on the drivers side which they do make because the 12 volt battery is on the passenger side.

Thank you very much, I am far from a professional installer. I'm just a OCD to the extreme 46 yr old, who's been upgrading my own factory stereo's since my 1st vehicle I purchased at 17 which was a 94' Chevy Camaro. I Installed Rockford Fosgate 6 & 1/2 component sets, one in the front and 1 in the rear, as well as 2-10" Blaupunkt subs in a hand made box a friend and myself made to fit the rear hatch. Along with a amp rack, for my 2 amps and dsp we installed. I still have 4x6 film pics of this car and stereo install on the basement somewhere.

I've learned a lot over the years (what not to do & to do), and have always been as meticulous as I can afford to be. I learned what not to do from two previous stereo shops I had install aftermarket subwoofers & amps in brand new trucks I purchased. After those learning lessons at a young age, I've been doing all my own installs.

 

[CHills]

… a 10-in kicker Comp RT dvc 2 ohm sub under the ps seat storage area. I powered the sub with a Alpine mono class D amp and installed the Alpine sub bass gain knob in the headlight switch panel. I went with a ground shaker box…

I have the same items ready for wiring in my truck. Would you be able to show / tell me where you tapped the signal wires for your sub? Also, I can’t tell from your pictures, did you use a line out converter? Remote on?…wired to what?
Thank you for any help you can provide.

 

[Toddman45]

I have the same items ready for wiring in my truck. Would you be able to show / tell me where you tapped the signal wires for your sub? Also, I can’t tell from your pictures, did you use a line out converter? Remote on?…wired to what?
Thank you for any help you can provide.

I originally tapped the rear speakers (A few months later I also tapped the front speakers as well) for the signal to my sub amp, obviously because it was a much shorter run and easier to do since the rear speakers are right there near where I installed my amp. The mono amp I used a Alpine MRV-M500, it accepts speaker wire (Hi-Level Input) for its signal and also has auto sense which does not require a remote trigger wire to turn the amp on it uses the speaker signal to power on the amp.

All I did was spliced into the included metra rear speaker wiring harness and ran a set of speaker wire from each left and right rear speaker down to my amps included high level input harness. Also if you're keen on Forscan in the ACM settings change the factory EQ to Flat EQ. It removes the bass roll off from the rear speakers.

I do enjoy having the fronts tapped as well now because I fade it more towards the front and this way I don't have any bass loss when doing so, not the need to adjust the amp gain either.

As before I changed that Forscan setting regardless of the OEM rear speakers having capacitors on them blocking low frequency signals they put out no bass. After replacing the stock 4" speakers with the Kickers I noticed a decent improvement in mid bass to the rear speakers.

Also I did not need use a loc, or remote turn on wire. Depending on what amp you use for your sub you may or may not be required to use a lot or remote turn on. I included a photo of the OEM speaker wiring for non b&o stereo. [/QUOTE]

 

[MakinDoForNow]

I don't see us Hybrid owners being able to upgrade like this with a power amp because I have a stock Lariat w/o B&O and I have been through 4, 12 volt batteries in 13,000 miles and about to take it back to the dealer for battery number 5. The dreaded Deep Sleep Mode is back again.

Does anyone know of someone with a Hybrid that was successfull adding a power amp and sub?

Where are you grounding the power amp? Just in case you are grounding on neg battery post move it to the body side of the BMS which is attached to the negative post. If you ground on the battery post side of the BMS it cannot see the draw from the battery and and not realize that the battery needs that current replaced. When I get a chance later today or tomorrow I will update with a solution that would need to be tested for the soc problem.

 

[DougS2K]

Nice setup. Is that bass knob the Alpine RUX-KNOB.2 by any chance? I think it is but not sure. If so, did you have a hard time getting the plastic knob off to mount it like that? Just upgraded my system but haven't mounted the knob yet as I am unsure of the best location to put it. I really like where you have it though as it looks like it's suppose to be there from the factory.

 

[Toddman45]

Nice setup. Is that bass knob the Alpine RUX-KNOB.2 by any chance? I think it is but not sure. If so, did you have a hard time getting the plastic knob off to mount it like that? Just upgraded my system but haven't mounted the knob yet as I am unsure of the best location to put it. I really like where you have it though as it looks like it's suppose to be there from the factory.

Thank you, Yes it is The Alpine knob. The thick plastic knob was easy to remove just simply pulling it off the control housing. Then I removed the internal PCB board with the adjustment dial from the thin metal housing case.

I had to remove it from its housing in order to fit it in that location as there's not much room so it is the PC board only behind the headlight switch location. With the metal case completely removed but I just added some heat shrink for the PC board as where it's located it's never going to get touched or messed with to read the metal housing.

I'm a taller guy so I didn't want to mount it where most people have installed it below the 12 volt port and have to lean forward and stretch forward for it. Where I installed it it's easy to find and adjust on the fly..

 

[DougS2K]

Thank you, Yes it is The Alpine knob. The thick plastic knob was easy to remove just simply pulling it off the control housing. Then I removed the internal PCB board with the adjustment dial from the thin metal housing case.

I had to remove it from its housing in order to fit it in that location as there's not much room so it is the PC board only behind the headlight switch location. With the metal case completely removed but I just added some heat shrink for the PC board as where it's located it's never going to get touched or messed with to read the metal housing.

I'm a taller guy so I didn't want to mount it where most people have installed it below the 12 volt port and have to lean forward and stretch forward for it. Where I installed it it's easy to find and adjust on the fly..

Interesting. Didn't realize there wasn't that much space back there. Thought it would be pretty empty.

I was going to mount mine beside the traction control button as my XLT has a blank button/spot but not sure if that piece comes out. I don't personally like the typical spot either because it just seems awkward to reach.

 

[Toddman45]

I can post a photo of what it looks like behind the switch if you need to see. I just removed the switch with a plastic trim panel pry tool, very easy and didn't more anything.

I just found it to be the best location and the least expensive part to replace down the road if you wanted to. I most likely will do like I did with my previous vehicle and just leave the base knob installed when I sell it or it dies.

On my previous 2016 F-150, I installed it near the push button start. There was plenty of room in that vehicle I didn't have to remove the metal housing.

My favorite about the F-150 crew cab was there was enough room to put the shallow mount sub and box behind the rear seat as well as the amp.

 

[Toddman45]

Interesting. Didn't realize there wasn't that much space back there. Thought it would be pretty empty.

I was going to mount mine beside the traction control button as my XLT has a blank button/spot but not sure if that piece comes out. I don't personally like the typical spot either because it just seems awkward to reach.

It was simple it was like two screws and I used a small pair of pliers to pry off the one piece of the metal housing and the PC board switch came out with a knob off. Then you measure the location drill the proper hole a 16th of an inch larger than the metal shaft, slide the shaft through the newly drilled hole install the screw slide on the knob, done. Connect the standard phone cable from the amp to the knob snap in the headlight switch control.

Literally took me 15 minutes taking my time, also be sure to use a piece of painters tape on the area you're going to drill your hole so you don't mar the plastic.

 

[DougS2K]

I can post a photo of what it looks like behind the switch if you need to see. I just removed the switch with a plastic trim panel pry tool, very easy and didn't more anything.

I just found it to be the best location and the least expensive part to replace down the road if you wanted to. I most likely will do like I did with my previous vehicle and just leave the base knob installed when I sell it or it dies.

On my previous 2016 F-150, I installed it near the push button start. There was plenty of room in that vehicle I didn't have to remove the metal housing.

Is the first pic in the Mav or another vehicle? I was thinking you would just remove the knob and then the nut and mount it via the nut but that pic shows a screw so now I'm thinking you can't mount it via the nut maybe.

 

[Toddman45]

Is the first pic in the Mav or another vehicle? I was thinking you would just remove the knob and then the nut and mount it via the nut but that pic shows a screw so now I'm thinking you can't mount it via the nut maybe.

That's all I had to do in the F-150 as there was enough room to leave the knob in the metal case behind that panel. With the Maverick there was less room behind that headlight switch so I had to remove the PC board from the metal case. The cases obviously just there for protection when installed out in the open.

Since I have it mounted behind the switch panel that has it protected there's no chance of it getting fouled up, I just put a large piece of heat shrink tubing over the PCB board and heated it up to provide a little protection even though it's probably not needed.

You can see from my pictures there's not a lot of room back there especially to leave the case on it has to be removed for installation behind the headlight switch.

 

[DougS2K]

That's all I had to do in the F-150 as there was enough room to leave the knob in the metal case behind that panel. With the Maverick there was less room behind that headlight switch so I had to remove the PC board from the metal case. The cases obviously just there for protection when installed out in the open.

Since I have it mounted behind the switch panel that has it protected there's no chance of it getting fouled up, I just put a large piece of heat shrink tubing over the PCB board and heated it up to provide a little protection even though it's probably not needed.

Gotcha. Makes sense now. I'll have to see if I have enough wire to get over to that panel. Ran all my wires up the passenger side since the amp is on that side but not sure if I have enough slack to get me over to the driver's side under the dash.

Sponsored