Good-Win Racing Sway Bar on its way! Settings / setup questions

[onemuir]

I just ordered the good-win racing sway bar (4-25-24). Anyone else install this sway bar and have some tips?
also which setting do you use? I’m thinking about the stiffest setting but I don’t want a ton of oversteer. I do prefer a slight rearward balance though.
and last question. Is it easy to change settings once installed?

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[Aon]

I have been using the Goodwin bar with stock springs for my whole 5 months of Maverick ownership. I originally set it to the middle position and found it to be too harsh for my commute so I went to the softest position and haven't touched it since. That has proven to be the sweet spot for me on stock springs. Eliminates most of the roll and allows plenty of rotation if provoked.

I was instructing at our local autocross driver's school event and decided to take it for a fun run at lunch. Even with all-terrains I was able to match the majority of the novice times (small victory but still enough to say "you got beat by a truck on all-terrains" )

I imagine with lowering springs you could definitely move it to the stiffer positions without consequence. I certainly plan to do that when the time comes.

 

[onemuir]

Thanks! In your opinion is the truck “over springed” or “over shocked”. I prefer the stock ride height.
I’d like to do a track day or two or maybe an autocross event. Not too much, it eats tires up pretty fast lol.
I like the ride quality in normal driving. But pushing it during “spirited” driving brings some strange (to me) handling behaviors. nothing crazy or scary but just a little concerned. Maybe it’s that I’m running pretty wide tires (255/55/18) on current stock suspension. it doesn’t seem to like being pushed hard in a corner. (Not the intended design of the vehicle). And it does tend to roll a bit when pushed. I was thinking it felt like the inside rear tire was about to lift? (never had a car that would do that) I’ve owned a couple decent sports cars integra gsr, infinity G-35, Toyota frs/ae85 or whatever they call it these days. Had a Titan with stillen bits, several other trucks. Anyway, I was hoping a rear sway bar would help keep the rear more settled and give more rotation.

 

[Aon]

I'd say it's under-sprung but it's also...a truck. All the swaybar does is increase roll stiffness which certainly helps stability, but 3600lbs and a high center of gravity does not a sportscar make.

 

[NY DIY GUY]

I have the Lowering and handling kit from good-win racing. I left the sway bar at the lowest setting. Combined with the springs its a night and day difference. Vehicle handles more like a car now but it also got a little stiffer. Ride quality is good for daily driving but you feel bumps on the road more than when it was on stock suspension. Don't know if you installed the bar yet but the oem bar is a pita to get out. 3/4 of the time spent was getting the oem sway bar out. Either you have to take off the driveshaft or remove the last 2 hanger bushings on the exhaust for clearance to remove the oem bar.

 

[onemuir]

I should have updated a couple days ago.
I got the sway bar and waited a couple days for the rain to quit. Warmer weather prevailed and I got to work. Jacked up the back end of the mav. Started taking the various bolts out. Nuthin too difficult. Once it was free it was a question of how to get it out! I removed the passenger side rear tire. Twisted, turned, pushed, pulled, cursed a few times. Finally it just popped out. Pretty much the same thing going back in. For me the heat shielding was the biggest hurdle. Disconnecting the drive shaft would have helped as well but I didn’t want to mess with it. Anyway, it’s in! I went with the middle setting. Took it for a quick spin. Jury is still out. The middle setting is supposed to almost double the pressure/resistance of stock. But it feels (just first impression here) maybe 30%. There is definitely less “head slap”. Going to throw it around a few corners today and see how it goes. I’m thinking better shocks would help. Especially up front. I would really love if someone had actual skid pad numbers for various springs shocks and sway bars.
I feel that the truck already has a pretty firm ride. I have the 4K tow package. (Does anyone know if the 4K tow package has firmer springs or shocks?). I’m also running 255-55-18 tires on aftermarket wheels. Which are heavier. So that’s not helping. Another question; are the factory springs progressive rate? If not , maybe that’s the answer. The harder I push the less confidence I feel. . Things start feeling a little weird. I can’t quite put my finger on it. I do want to keep the stock ride height or close to it. I understand this isn’t a sports car. The basic architecture of one is there. With a few tweaks I think it can handle exceptionally well.

 

[colinl]

I am very glad for your detailed posts because I'm about to autocross my truck which also has 4k towing, non fx4 and even 255-55/18 summer tires- Conti sport contact 3, but on factory 18" wheels.

I have a set of eibach springs that I haven't yet installed and was considering leaving the springs stock and changing the rear sway bar.

 

[onemuir]

That wheel and tire set up should work well. I’d start with the sway bar. Go somewhere safe and take some hard corners fast with the stock setup (and with the new tires). Then do the sway bar and see what you think. I’d start with the middle setting and for competition move it to the firmest position. I think the firmest position would be too much in the wet, especially on public roads. (Probably too much oversteer). For autocross you’ll want a little rotation.
My impressions after really pushing the truck with the sway bar. Much better!. The rear feels much more solid. Very planted and body lean is minimal. It’s taken most of the front wheel drive “plowing” feeling out. (With lift throttle cornering there is still some understeer. But it’s acceptable.) constant throttle is very neutral.
My thoughts on the front? (While I consider myself knowledgeable, I’m no expert) I think the front needs a bit more stiffness. Not much! I think the front can be cured with either a little firmer shock absorber or maybe a firmer spring rate. (Not sure about the eibach spring rates. Are they a progressive rate or constant?)
So in your case, definitely run the sway bar (middle setting) see what you think. I would try just the front springs (if they aren’t drastically firmer!) and see what that feels like. Then go with the rear springs as well. Then go with firmer shocks if you’re looking for maximum handling.
This is purely a guess on my part! If the eibach springs are a constant rate it might produce a little more bounce (why we have/need shock absorbers). so a firmer shock would negate that. Progressive rate springs should ride better and get firmer the more pressure is applied. And shouldn’t need firmer shocks for everyday use. These are just my thoughts. I would love to hear your feedback and results.
(I can obviously chat all day on suspension and aerodynamics)

 

[Butterscotch]

My swaybar came today and three hours later I was in the traffic circle doing 53 mph
Easy out - easy in. I should have taken a walk through video but wasn't thinking about it at the time.
You know....new toys.

Have it on setting 2 same as my Helwig on the RAM. I like the feel.

Enjoy !!

 

[Cancunbadlands]

My swaybar came today and three hours later I was in the traffic circle doing 53 mph
Easy out - easy in. I should have taken a walk through video but wasn't thinking about it at the time.
You know....new toys.

Have it on setting 2 same as my Helwig on the RAM. I like the feel.

Enjoy !!

You should have taken a walk through video for sure

 

[Butterscotch]

Well I recently put on a Thermal Exhaust and while under there I figured I would look and see what all the "screaming" was about - turn this way, push that way etc.
I'm not sure if the undercarriage of the 25 is any different than the 24 so that might could be why since I've not seen any 25 owners with big complaints just frustration getting the old one out and the new in.

If you put the driver side wheel up on 2 4x4s laying side by side, then jack up the passenger side so the wheel is about 4 inches off the ground, secure witha jack stand, take the wheel off, and start disassembling.

Then go under the truck from the rear head first. remove four screws from the heat shield (I'll take a pic later) then look at what you have. To me it was very obvious. Tounges up (mount points on ends) slide passenger end out through the opening where the wheel was, toungue down move bar so driver side is at the drive shaft, rotate so driver toungue is pointing to front of truck - all the time watching where the bushing bracket is so it does not get caught up on the heat shield, over the drive shaft and out....all while under the truck.

Reverse the process but don't get cocky and say "hey no bushing brackets I'll do this way". Ya well I did and I restarted the install following the same pattern in reverse. Boom !! Right in.

Now be sure you grease the bushings before you go back under the truck. The bushings are split so they pop right on.

What pissed me off more than anything was the fact that Good-Win does not tell you what size any of the tools are. Torx have two different types - one I call Honda type (thick stars) and the other normal torx. You need 10mm, 13mm, T-40 and a T-50. If you have ever done brake work then you have the required Torx bits.

Enjoy - since I have finally retired at the ripe old age of 62 - not 67 - I enjoy doing these types of tasks.

Let me know how it goes.

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