- First Name
- Mike
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2025
- Threads
- 20
- Messages
- 244
- Reaction score
- 292
- Location
- Summerfield Fl
- Vehicle(s)
- 2025 Maverick Lobo, Meyers Manx clone dune buggy
- Engine
- 2.0L EcoBoost
- Thread starter
- #1
Because of the change at the rear bumper, there are only one or two mud flap sets that fit the LOBO.
I wanted something that didn’t stand out like a sore thumb. I didn’t need large flaps since my truck will never do any serious off-roading and I plan on lowering the Mav at a later date. I found some 24-inch square flaps, meant for tractor-trailer trucks, on Amazon that I could make work.
After several card board mock-ups I finally had a template for the front and rear flaps. I made two last-minute changes to both the front and rear flaps. The change to the rear flaps is shown in the picture. The flaps were enlarged to fill the open area left by the inner wheel well. The front flaps had to be cut out to clear the inner wheel well or frame and that was done after the picture was taken.
The hardest part was locating the mounting holes and getting the right hardware to attach the flaps.
I determined that a #6 sheet metal screw was very close to the screws used on the rear flaps. I purchased some 1-1/2 inch long, hex head, stainless steel screws and 3/16-inch ID fender washers to do the job.
The installed mud flaps / splash guards do not stand out as much and are about 1-1/2 inches shorter than other ones available.
I wanted something that didn’t stand out like a sore thumb. I didn’t need large flaps since my truck will never do any serious off-roading and I plan on lowering the Mav at a later date. I found some 24-inch square flaps, meant for tractor-trailer trucks, on Amazon that I could make work.
After several card board mock-ups I finally had a template for the front and rear flaps. I made two last-minute changes to both the front and rear flaps. The change to the rear flaps is shown in the picture. The flaps were enlarged to fill the open area left by the inner wheel well. The front flaps had to be cut out to clear the inner wheel well or frame and that was done after the picture was taken.
The hardest part was locating the mounting holes and getting the right hardware to attach the flaps.
I determined that a #6 sheet metal screw was very close to the screws used on the rear flaps. I purchased some 1-1/2 inch long, hex head, stainless steel screws and 3/16-inch ID fender washers to do the job.
The installed mud flaps / splash guards do not stand out as much and are about 1-1/2 inches shorter than other ones available.
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