Dimension for the Cargo management system

[dsford]

Can someone send me the actual dimension for the cargo management system? I need the measurement for the OEM rails and each screw holes. My maverick has the modular bedliner which cover up the screw holes. I'm about to install my own rails, and need to drill through the bedliners to get the screw holes, but don't want to mess it up. If I can get the actual dimension between each screw holes, that would be super helpful. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about.

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[FabMav]

If you take off the left and right modular bed liner panels there are markings on the back where you should drill to (sort of) match the screw holes in the bed..

 

[MetalsGeek]

The front two holes used for the factory tie point are both M6, the remaining four on each side are all M8. Starting from the front bolt as zero, the "nominal" distances to the others (in mm) are:
M6 M6 M8 M8 M8 M8
00 50 270 480 740 1015
The locations of the threaded nut plates in my truck varied up to 2 mm from these "ideal" locations both horizontally and vertically, so getting precise holes thru a drop-in bedliner would be difficult.
I installed L-Track which needs flat-head fasteners that require precise alignment of the countersunk hole with the nut plate in the bed. I made what machinists call a "transfer" punch (cut off bolt head & grind a sharp cone in its place) to mark each bolt location precisely on the back side of the rail. It was time consuming but worked out well. I suppose you could use this approach to mark the front and rear bolt holes in your bedliner but it would take some time. If you're using something more forgiving than L-Track (like Unistrut) the mounting holes could be larger to give you some leeway on spacing tolerances. This whole thing is of course why factory holes are so sloppy!

 

[dsford]

If you take off the left and right modular bed liner panels there are markings on the back where you should drill to (sort of) match the screw holes in the bed..

Thanks. I didn’t know there were markings on the back of the Bed liner. Why didn’t they just put the markings on the front. Smh thanks anyway I’ll check it out. I was hoping I wouldn’t need to remove the bed liner but I’m guess there’s no other way.

 

[dsford]

The front two holes used for the factory tie point are both M6, the remaining four on each side are all M8. Starting from the front bolt as zero, the "nominal" distances to the others (in mm) are:
M6 M6 M8 M8 M8 M8
00 50 270 480 740 1015
The locations of the threaded nut plates in my truck varied up to 2 mm from these "ideal" locations both horizontally and vertically, so getting precise holes thru a drop-in bedliner would be difficult.
I installed L-Track which needs flat-head fasteners that require precise alignment of the countersunk hole with the nut plate in the bed. I made what machinists call a "transfer" punch (cut off bolt head & grind a sharp cone in its place) to mark each bolt location precisely on the back side of the rail. It was time consuming but worked out well. I suppose you could use this approach to mark the front and rear bolt holes in your bedliner but it would take some time. If you're using something more forgiving than L-Track (like Unistrut) the mounting holes could be larger to give you some leeway on spacing tolerances. This whole thing is of course why factory holes are so sloppy!

Thank you. I’ll use this to drill the first hole to see how it lines up then proceed if it’s line up perfectly. I’ll post a follow up after message in the thread to confirm what worked because other folks are recommending removing the bed liner.

 

[MetalsGeek]

Thank you. I’ll use this to drill the first hole to see how it lines up then proceed if it’s line up perfectly. I’ll post a follow up after message in the thread to confirm what worked because other folks are recommending removing the bed liner.

My discussion of the transfer punch approach would mandate removal of the bed liner at least once (if you made 4 punches). However, if the front tie down is in place (glad you have the XLT), that should be an accurate starting reference point for the remaining holes. For what it's worth, here are the actual horizontal distances from my install:
DriverSide 0 50 270.0 480.6 740.0 1015.8
Passenger 0 50 271.0 481.2 741.0 1016.9
The vertical offsets are similarly within 2 mm of a straight line. As long as your rails are not too picky about mounting hole alignment, you should do OK. Good luck...

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