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Or you could've gotten the hybrid, and had it sound like a Singer.

Well, you guys ARE famous for burning down the wrong things…. :teehee:

Having not owned a <2025 Maverick, may I ask what it would do if you did not use L? My expectation would have been the same, but not having driven one I don’t know for sure.

Yep, putting it in L is the problem. Must be in neutral. Are you perhaps tapping the L button because of the message on the dash? Ignore that, as it pertains to leaving the vehicle in neutral when exiting, otherwise the truck parks itself when you open the door. Always N only in a car wash.

A work in progress is my hauling loadout, which changes just a bit every week. The buckets are just garbage I haven’t gotten around to getting rid of, except the one in the very front.

Ohio, and states like it, screwed the pooch. They haven’t gotten any plate revenue from me since 2019, which was the last year I had the Prius registered there. Both my Versa and the Maverick have been purchased and registered out of Texas, so they lost the sales tax on both as well. Texas...

I would say if a transmission cannot handle as much stall torque in reverse as it can going forward in first gear, maybe the engineers need to return to the drawing board and make it right. Especially for a truck. This is why I bought a Maverick, and didn’t give a moment’s thought to a hybrid...

Well, after removing the seat (which turns out to only have a single connector, with the cable secured by a single push pin.) I do indeed have an airbag warning light on the dash, and the seat heater control for the passenger seat is none the wiser. 🙃

Power Transfer Unit and Rear Differential Unit

I was under the impression you were replying to the OP, who has a hybrid. :confused: Though, the point about rod bearings stands, they're the same whether hybrid or EB. Or even a 5.0L in an F-150.

I think it looks better with the 'stache. (unpainted, black, I meant, thought I quoted)

It always amazes me that people with obvious knowledge of engines do not seem to understand how they work internally. Strain on the crank bearings would result in a seized engine. 🙃 Put me down as one of those people with a non-4k who regularly tows as much and more. FWD and use Eco mode...

I don't know exactly, but I wrapped it on the bottom of the hook so that it would cushion the contact with the bottom of the small hook compartment, which SEEMS correct.

There is a piece of felt (I assume to reduce rattling) that on mine was misplaced and made latching inconsistent. Maybe check that, and move it if need be?

Incidental to the roof flex, here is my solution on the Maverick, and it feels rock solid. Puck in the rear, self tappers in the center, and rivnuts used on the forward attachments

I won’t know until we get a good rain, but there is a neoprene gasket slathered in sealant sandwiched between the puck and the roof, and my Versa which has the same antenna and mount hasn’t leaked in over a year, and that with the roof flexing rather wildly. I can always do a quick spot check...

Not as much as it was, but were I ever to get licensed, simply removing the spring retunes it to 10m, which is still rather popular

Picture, now that it’s installed-ish. (Going to fab some braces to the middle roof support, because on my versa the same antenna twists the roof visibly) I reused the existing hole for the center conductor, and drilled 4 fresh for the puck. Breedlove #602 puck mount, if anyone is interested

I am not exactly sure what I’m seeing in your picture, did you replace the factory shark fin with an aftermarket unit? One that does not have all the same connections as the factory unit? My current plan is to leave all of those connections vacant, since I don't use the factory radio

I do of course mean on a permanent basis, not temporarily, as I am installing a CB antenna in it's place, but I wonder, with the smarts inside the antenna housing that others have shown, whether anything is going to freak out. I have already removed the fuse for the telematics module, so I...