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Sam with Cobb has already figured that out. You just need a paddle steering wheel and an accessport. Your tuner can enable SST, you hit the L button to engage.

It’s plugs right in, fits perfectly and works on a maverick, but the M button triggers the L because nobody has figured out the programming.

the lesson is don’t be a dummy. A “homeowner” as you call it is never going to take their wheels off anyway and if a shop cross threads a lug nut it’s on them. if you cross thread your lug nuts and it sounds like you have or don’t tighten them like the op you get the dummy award and get to pay...

I think that’s somewhat overstated. The parts to repair that would be $128.

I think it’s a pretty common design. I saw a parts diagram that has a number for the studs but it’s not listed as something you can order, I’m sure they want you to buy a whole hub and not replace individual studs. the ford dealer where I get parts from has the hub for $64, and the bearing kit...

the bronco sport badlands has a gsm with manual mode and paddle shifters already

the newest gen of the 2.3l EcoBoost as well as the gen 2 3.5L and 2.7L all have dual injection. Though ford says the reason for dual injection is not for carbon build up.

Right on! Good luck. A good tuner walks you through all that stuff because they do it everyday and deal with us enthusiasts who don’t lol. If you get revisions they should tell you specifically what to data log and how to do it.

True. But it’s also why I asked brand of fuel. I can get KOM +1 with brand A and brand B but one knocks more often than the other and both are supposed to be 93 octane.

@Saint D I’d also download the software and plug in the device to your laptop and make sure it’s up to date. I think someone mentioned firmware in another post, same thing. Also do some research on their site about data logs, it’s essential. Has anyone from livernois or FM got back to you? Do...

Not exactly. 91 can give a KOM of 1 as will 93. And some 93s will knock more than others.

I’m not sure about the unit you have but you should be able to get real time data from it through gauges settings and data log as well. Look to see if it’s knocking (you can monitor individual cylinders) and pulling timing. The reason I asked the brand of fuel is that even if it’s top tier it...

@Saint D what fuel are you using? Octane and brand. are you monitoring kom, knock and timing? you were at least 170F on coolant temp during both runs?

They shift 1-3 in nearly all conditions. At certain speeds and drive modes and throttle it might hit a 2 but it’s not going to be often. You can data log a Cobb ap to see this. It‘ll skip 2 every time even when not WOT.

Thanks! They are different part numbers it looks like from the non tremor. I guess the rears would be too. I had read they were different but this pretty well confirms it. Be cool to see some side by side photos of those axles.

Do you have those part numbers for the tremor axles? I haven’t found a way to enter Tremor as a trim option when looking at Ford parts online stores, just xl, xlt, and lariat. And we’re talking front and rear?

Id say 45 is optimistic. You’ve got to pull and hang the caliper first. Not all axles come out of hubs that easy and then you’ve got the other side where you may want a new seal, and you may loose transmission fluid when you pull it. An easy job in a garage but most people can’t do their own...

@EONR24 Simpler question do you know the 22xl OE left steering switch number in SCCM? I’m just going to put it back in and maybe order the correct switch next time. I didn’t read about it throughly and got the wrong switch and it looks like most people change the right side too but I’m not sure...

Didn’t add a stalk just the switch. I think the part number for the switch is LB5Z9C888H Supersession(s): LB5Z-9C888-H; LB5Z9C888D