Which flat tow braking system do you use and why?

[John_D]

We just had our '24 Maverick set up to be flat towed behind our RV. I currently have the Patriot braking system, which I previously used in a Jeep Wrangler with no issues. My issue with this system in the Maverick is the Patriot braking system pushes against the lever to move the seat when it is trying to engage the brake, thus moving the seat back. I do not have power seats or any of the other bells and whistles on my XLT. So, which braking system are you using and what are your thoughts on it? I took the RV and Maverick for a test drive this morning and twice when I applied the brake in the RV the brakes engaged in the Maverick. I had to come to a complete stop in the RV in order for the brake in the Maverick to disengage. Has anyone else run into this and how did you resolve this issue? Thanks!

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[realshelby]

I ran a Patriot braking system for years. Cmax and Wrangler. In the Wrangler is was no issue, in the Cmax it was always in the way when trying to "exercise" the Cmax at rest or fuel stops.
Sounds like your Patriot may be disengaging the seat when it pushes against the manual lever. The Patriot can come on each time the RV brakes are used. But typically there is enough lag time, or braking is very slight and you don't notice it. I had the remote for the Patriot on my dash and knew when it was attempting to engage. Never had a problem with it NOT disengaging......Honestly never thought it done much to help braking either. Maybe in a panic stop from a higher speed, but it took too long to actually engage to help much like when someone pulls out in front of you.
Besides ANY system that is floor mounted is kind of in the way to do the exercising 2-3 times a day.

I switched to the Ready Brute mechanical braking system when I set up the Maverick. Takes several hours to install it and the mechanical break-away system. But once done you have two cables with carabiner type hooks that you clip to the front of the Maverick. 5 seconds. The brakes come on quicker and seem to apply force a LOT quicker.

There are some other systems that seem like they would work well. Those that are vacuum or air operated. But they have electronics involved and cost is much higher.

 

[Dino]

I have towed several vehicle with the Patriot 3 brake system, I had to take the rubber mat out of my xterra because the unit was slipping on the rubber . Once I did that and it was on carpet , that fixed all my problems. Also ,try adjusting the legs or even taking them off, that has helped me in the past with other vehicles. Lastly, I had one vehicle with a very soft seat which made it hard for the unit to engage, I put a piece of wood between the unit a nd the seat and it worked, good luck.

 

[dcharfna]

Curious how everyone powered the braking system. Currently, I have power from my motorhome to the positive post in the engine compartment. (I believe this is where you jump start if needed) I then ran a cigarette lighter plug from the battery compartment inside the truck that I pull out when needed. Would this be the correct way to power the brake? Thanks for the help

 

[BradnChristine]

Curious how everyone powered the braking system. Currently, I have power from my motorhome to the positive post in the engine compartment. (I believe this is where you jump start if needed) I then ran a cigarette lighter plug from the battery compartment inside the truck that I pull out when needed. Would this be the correct way to power the brake? Thanks for the help

Just be sure if you are connecting at the battery that you connect properly, AFTER the BMS unit...
As in Battery THEN BMS THEN your connection.

Personally, I am going to do something different this time, using a 201 wh lithium power bank. When I tested it in the kitchen, three applications of the brakes (Brake Buddy pre-classic) only brought it down to 94% remaining capacity. I keep my BrakeBuddy on a very low setting so it only needs a little power if it gets activated. If that doesn't do the job on the next trip, I'll likely connect as you are doing, at the rear seat battery.

Of course, I also have a charge wire running through my 6-pin connector to the jump points under the hood (through a Hopkins battery maintainer essentially, a diode and a fuse).

This was about $58 when I bought it. I plan to recharge it either via one of my little solar panels or in the 12 volt outlet while driving the truck. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B8H2JL1N/

 

[dcharfna]

I am a complete newbie when it comes to electrical connections. Can you help me understand your answer. I was simply going to connect to the terminals. Red and black. What is BMS?
Thanks

 

[BradnChristine]

I am a complete newbie when it comes to electrical connections. Can you help me understand your answer. I was simply going to connect to the terminals. Red and black. What is BMS?
Thanks

OK. No problem. We all start from there. Here is a less than perfect, non-technical explanation, and I'm sure the genius folk will correct me if needed.

1. Ford has a Battery Maintainance System (BMS) in one of its computers that tracks what is happening with the voltage and current in your 12 volt (not Hybrid) battery that you found under the seat. It is very similar to the shunt I have in my RV (Victron SmartShunt) to keep track of my house batteries. These things "sample" the current as it goes by (that sampling is what a shunt does, so it doesn't take a lot of power/current to accomplish the measuring). Literally, the BMS keeps track of the electrons leaving the battery (using 12 volt things) and the electrons coming back into the battery (from charging). It is literally an electric fuel gauge.
2. My Smartshunt is on the negative terminal, and I believe Ford is as well, as it is in my Ford Transit pictured below.
3. So if you connect directly to the battery terminal (like we all used to do until things got fancy), then you do not let the BMS "see" that you are taking power without "telling" it. So it doesn't know your battery status any longer. This is why you don't hook up your battery charger there either, directly to the battery post.

This is a picture from my 2020 Ford Transit. That black thing is the BMS shunt/sensor. The lowest, left nut is for the negative cable, the nut right above it goes to the negative of the second battery (Ford uses 2 batteries for the later Transit 3.5L motors). You can see that the BMS is located between these two nuts and the actual battery terminal above it. You can see the red and white wires taking the info from the BMS sensor to the computer.

You see the nut on the top of everything? To connect something there would be to bypass the BMS. That is the WRONG place. Connecting to EITHER of the lower nuts on that plate is just fine. They are "after " the BMS sampling occurs, so whatever you do (taking power, replacing power) is seen and recorded.

 

[dcharfna]

Thanks for the great explanation. And running my charging wire from my tv to the baseplate (where the Rv plugs in) to the positive post where you jump the truck is okay?

 

[BradnChristine]

Thanks for the great explanation. And running my charging wire from my tv to the baseplate (where the Rv plugs in) to the positive post where you jump the truck is okay?

Yes. If you use the jump terminals, they are "seen" by the BMS. That's where my charge wire is as well.

 

[dcharfna]

So

Just be sure if you are connecting at the battery that you connect properly, AFTER the BMS unit...
As in Battery THEN BMS THEN your connection.

Personally, I am going to do something different this time, using a 201 wh lithium power bank. When I tested it in the kitchen, three applications of the brakes (Brake Buddy pre-classic) only brought it down to 94% remaining capacity. I keep my BrakeBuddy on a very low setting so it only needs a little power if it gets activated. If that doesn't do the job on the next trip, I'll likely connect as you are doing, at the rear seat battery.

Of course, I also have a charge wire running through my 6-pin connector to the jump points under the hood (through a Hopkins battery maintainer essentially, a diode and a fuse).

This was about $58 when I bought it. I plan to recharge it either via one of my little solar panels or in the 12 volt outlet while driving the truck. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B8H2JL1N/
[/QUOTE

last question I promise
the person who installed my power line to car jump post used a fuse, not the diode. Does that matter?

 

[BradnChristine]

So
last question I promise
the person who installed my power line to car jump post used a fuse, not the diode. Does that matter?

Only if there is a possibility with your motorhome that you could pull power FROM the Maverick's battery.
The diode is just an insurance policy that power can only be sent INTO the Maverick's battery (one-way) and never taken out because your motorhome battery is lower and tries to pull from the Maverick. I use a Hopkins 39332 maintainer...it limits the current charge to 2A.

 

[dcharfna]

Thanks again.

 

[Scenicgene]

Curious how everyone powered the braking system. Currently, I have power from my motorhome to the positive post in the engine compartment. (I believe this is where you jump start if needed) I then ran a cigarette lighter plug from the battery compartment inside the truck that I pull out when needed. Would this be the correct way to power the brake? Thanks for the help

 

[Scenicgene]

I ran the power for my charge line kit and lighter plug from the jumper post under the hood. There is a large rubber grommet in the firewall above and left of the brake pedal that makes it easy to run the wires for the lighter and breakaway. The wires then run underneath the floor mat and store under the seat.

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